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^^ thank you guys

Looking for a good machine shop that has done the jun collar on the rb series crankshaft. Doesnt matter weres it located, just lmk. :bigthumbu

Sounds like a bad ground or wiring, frist with a voltmeter measure the voltage. there is a thick wire that runs to the battary to the starter that should always read 12v then theres another small wire which is the ignition switch signal which gets 12v only when you turn the key into the starting...

:bigthumbu

same shit happen with my rb the second i turn it on it goes to hot , actually on my s14 factory guage when the needle is on the H the rb is really running on its normal operating temp. I just stuck an aftermarket guage on there and the motor runs on 190F.

I got some 91 cams that have been cleaned and polished the journals lmk $60

Got some stainlees lines for the z32 front brake swap lmk $40

well either buy an ebay manifold and get it rewelded by a good welder to give it strength, or just modified the factory one, or get the full race.

Yes same thing

^^ yes he is right j30 came lsd and non-lsd. The 5bolt pattern being the lsd diff and the 6 bolt pattern being the non-lsd just like you would find in a 240sx. So just get j30 axles.

xrp fittings has them, just finshind plumbing a turbo on an rb with oil feed and return with water cooling, spent about 300 in all the fitting and hoses but turned out great. looks good and no leaks, also murrays sell xrp but they will have to order because they dont carry much meteric but it...

clear your pm box, still got that side mount if u want lmk

The question is how long do you want the motor to last, also the key is in your tuning.you can make good power with just high boost and a safc or still make good power with low boost on a ecu tune or standalone which will make the life of the motor last longer. Many different routes depends on...

Well frist off 12psi is pushing it and 300rwhp on a stock ka :eek:. I wouldn't boost it unless your readings were in 2psi of each other.

If you want to rev out get a rotory, rb20 is not a rev machine, 7600 to 8000rpm is max on stock block, also you start to lose power that high in the rpm range, it makes its max power at 6400 rpm and max torque at 3200 rpm. here are some specs. Engine Type (see below) RB20DET Twin cam...

well whenever I get a stud that doesnt come off I just hit it with my snapon 1/2 impact gun it snaps the stud in half every time.700ft lbs of force :bigthumbu . If not get a drill (A GOOD DRILL BIT) not the cheapys, the same size of the stud and drill through it (it takes time)

You need rb26 crank, rods and tomei rb24 pistons, if not the rb20 pistions will hit the head due to the rb26 stroke. The tranny can hand the abuse there pretty strong unless you go with a rb25 tranny which is evening stronger. Also rb26 cams drop right in, its a cheap upgrade with good...

If its a waste of time then why you reading the post.

well to heres the link you'll find everything there http://www.skylinesaustralia.com, to build a rb24 you will need an rb20 then rb26 crankshaft, rods, and tomei rb24 pistions.well If you want to rev high then an rb24 is for you they are know rev higher than the rb20 going up to 8500 because of...

got an rb20 in mine s14 still needs some more to finish though but its been fairly easy for the install, its costing a lot cheaper than an sr. Search SAU they love the rb20 plus alot off the parts off the rb26 will bolt to the rb20 or just build an rb24. Also you can get alot of misc parts off...