RB20 swap??

sweet cause im about to buy one from that vendor thread, with the fans.
ok so can someone help me out with trying to figure out, what would be a god reliable turbo for this motor. and also when you do this swap, do you have to relocate the sway bar? will my nismo power brace still work? and one more kinda dumb thing... what car did this motor come from? i mean i know it was in a skyline but what trim and what body. oh and one more thing, that collar for the oil seal on the crank do you have to do it to this motor too, like the rb26's? thanks
 
Devil Man said:
sweet cause im about to buy one from that vendor thread, with the fans.
ok so can someone help me out with trying to figure out, what would be a god reliable turbo for this motor. and also when you do this swap, do you have to relocate the sway bar? will my nismo power brace still work? and one more kinda dumb thing... what car did this motor come from? i mean i know it was in a skyline but what trim and what body. oh and one more thing, that collar for the oil seal on the crank do you have to do it to this motor too, like the rb26's? thanks
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you can't just bolt up any turbo to this your going to need to get a internaly wastegated turbo. unless you buy a manifold or have one fabed up (please don't buy that ssac crap).

you dont have to relocate the sway bar you just need to put some spacers to drop it a bit so that the oil pan dosen't it. if you use a mckinney or tophat mount kit you dont need to do this.

I dont think the power brace will work. i'll take some pics of under my car and you can see it can.

I'm not really sure what car i got the motor from but i think larry from drag told me it came from a r33 but im not really sure. and there is really no way to really tell the number on the block dose not macth the vin the only real way to be sure is to get a clip.

the crank collar is for all the rb motor's even the neo rb25's. i think the only motors that have that fixed are the r34's. and its not the seal that's a problem but the crank collar it's self. it was made to short.

you can tell from the pic's that one is bigger than the other.
Their are 2 way's to fix this.

1. get a jun crank collar from rhdjapan.com and have a machine shop put it on for you. your going to need to take off the crank. this is the point were i would say you might want to think about building the motor. remeber that when you take rod and main bolts that your going to want to buy new one's you can get them from arp.

or you can get a r34 crank. but it's not easy to find.

RB20.JPG
 
if i got a r34 crank would that change the stroke? and is there any of the other nissan turbos internaly waste gated, which btw i dont know what that means, or something that is a good replacement. also the intake what did you do for that. please get me those pics asap
 
r34 is just a series. if you got an rb25det crank from a r34 skyline it would work.

if you dont know what the diffrence between a internaly and externaly wastegated turbo is maybe you shouldn't be building a car? look's like have a lot to learn. nico has a really good RB section you should look around there and try to learn as much as you can.

intake what do you mean intake manifold? i bought a greddy one.

All i can say is that before you do this swap read as much about it as you can. your going to need to learn what your getting your self into. it takes alot of money to build a " reliable motor" RB parts are expensive so i hope you have a deep pocket.

I'll try to get pics tonight.
 
Devil Man said:
if i got a r34 crank would that change the stroke? and is there any of the other nissan turbos internaly waste gated, which btw i dont know what that means, or something that is a good replacement. also the intake what did you do for that. please get me those pics asap
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You can always just go with the rb25's turbo, it will flow a bit more air and it's practically bolt on, might need a little slotting for the holes on the rb20 turbo elbow if the rb25 turbo doesn't come with one.

My rb20 has never ran hot and I don't have much cooling it. Just a single 14" fan, it has only creeped on me one time, in dead stop traffic on I-75, but it took like 30-45 minutes before that happened.

I would like to go with a nice shiny Koyo and dual fan setup though.

All around I have been running my rb20 in sil80, side mount, and crappy exhaust for about 6 months. I have a FMIC and N1 dual exhaust, testpipe, and AM Performance downpipe to put on the beginning of next week.
 
r34 is just a series. if you got an rb25det crank from a r34 skyline it would work.

if you dont know what the diffrence between a internaly and externaly wastegated turbo is maybe you shouldn't be building a car? look's like have a lot to learn. nico has a really good RB section you should look around there and try to learn as much as you can.
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i knew that the r34 was just a chassie code, i just meant the motor inside of that. and i know motors fairly well i just dont know some parts, like the turbos, i dont know turbo's never really have played with them so this is why i ask. i have been reading alot of the rb stuff in nico too trying to get all the info i have, i see that this motor can be a nice high reving motor which i would really like.

and ok so with my set up that i wanted to get for my KA which was going to be duel 12's i should be ok than with the heat.

also when you say the parts are expensive, can you give me an example.

and also one more thing. thank good you guys have done this i can now pick your brains...hehehe
 
got an rb20 in mine s14 still needs some more to finish though but its been fairly easy for the install, its costing a lot cheaper than an sr. Search SAU they love the rb20 plus alot off the parts off the rb26 will bolt to the rb20 or just build an rb24. Also you can get alot of misc parts off the z32.
 
can i ask you how you can build a rb 24? also i want something that is going to be able to rev high, thats what i like. :D i would love to come and look at your s14 and see how that install went. and one more thing what did you guys do about the wiring? did you send it out or do it yourself, that is my biggest hold up and why i didnt try this in the first place. im starting to wish i didnt buy this other ka of mine /cry oh well i will just re sell it after i rebuild it. what types of parts can you use of the z32 i have read that alot of the sensors and whatnot are the same from some of the usdm cars. do you have any good links to that sau ( and im assuming that you mean south australia right)
 
well to heres the link you'll find everything there http://www.skylinesaustralia.com, to build a rb24 you will need an rb20 then rb26 crankshaft, rods, and tomei rb24 pistions.well If you want to rev high then an rb24 is for you they are know rev higher than the rb20 going up to 8500 because of the engineering of the rb26 crank.
 
do you know if it is possible to just put the rb26 crank but keep the rb20 pistons and rods? of do i have to get both just curious. cause if i do this swap i want a reving machine, thats all i have ever wanted. 8k or even 9k would be nice, as long as the tranny could take that beating haha.

oh and one more thing if i want to rev out like this what should be done, should i just get the aftermarket pistons, rods. will i need some different cams, timing gears? omg i want to learn everything!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :arr: :evil:
 
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mecca motoring said:
If its a waste of time then why you reading the post.
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just my input ;) and no i didnt read the post

m4nfred said:
not reading anything...but its a waste a time....reason why people take em out and replace em with sr's
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:bigthumbu
 
Devil Man said:
do you know if it is possible to just put the rb26 crank but keep the rb20 pistons and rods? of do i have to get both just curious. cause if i do this swap i want a reving machine, thats all i have ever wanted. 8k or even 9k would be nice, as long as the tranny could take that beating haha.

oh and one more thing if i want to rev out like this what should be done, should i just get the aftermarket pistons, rods. will i need some different cams, timing gears? omg i want to learn everything!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :arr: :evil:
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You need rb26 crank, rods and tomei rb24 pistons, if not the rb20 pistions will hit the head due to the rb26 stroke. The tranny can hand the abuse there pretty strong unless you go with a rb25 tranny which is evening stronger. Also rb26 cams drop right in, its a cheap upgrade with good noticeable power. But if you want to rev to 9k building the motor is a must.
 
plz guys just keep the rb20 is waste of time out of the thread i only want to read info on it. please if you want to say it is a waste of time, prove the point. is it because they blow up all the time, like that kinda thing. thanks
 
Devil Man said:
i knew that the r34 was just a chassie code, i just meant the motor inside of that. and i know motors fairly well i just dont know some parts, like the turbos, i dont know turbo's never really have played with them so this is why i ask. i have been reading alot of the rb stuff in nico too trying to get all the info i have, i see that this motor can be a nice high reving motor which i would really like.

and ok so with my set up that i wanted to get for my KA which was going to be duel 12's i should be ok than with the heat.

also when you say the parts are expensive, can you give me an example.

and also one more thing. thank good you guys have done this i can now pick your brains...hehehe
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ebay prices.
water pump 125. and for an n1 $261
oil pump 250 and for an n1 $375
crank coallor is $90 plus shipping but the expencive part is the machining.
gasket kit $150
arp head studs $130 (in the gasket kit it brings a head gasket so you might as well change them)
arp main bolts $175 (should change if you do the crank coallor)
arp rod bolts 90 (should change if you do the crank coallor)
rb oil pan $160( most come banged up) i think there still on back order.
and the list gose on and on


this is if you want a "reliable motor" trust me the last thing you was is to change somthing in that motor when it's in the car you don't really have a lot of space.
 
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