nope, cuase they know how to drive. They dont need to cheat.
The Drifting help thread.
- Thread starter Roly D Sauce
- Start date
nope, cuase they know how to drive. They dont need to cheat.
Does that picture help the thread Dj? What am i suppose to learn off that? Doesnt belong in the thread.
Seems like their ebrake locks the wheels quick. I need to tighten the adjustment nut so it locks like that. Car still locks pretty good for a car w/ almost 200k on it though lol.
God, i need to go to an event now! Seeing all these in-car vids makes me wanna slide right now!
Seems like their ebrake locks the wheels quick. I need to tighten the adjustment nut so it locks like that. Car still locks pretty good for a car w/ almost 200k on it though lol.
God, i need to go to an event now! Seeing all these in-car vids makes me wanna slide right now!
ok, guys listen up.
My e-brake does not do a DAMN THING if I pull it up going in a straight line. No matter how hard or fast I pull it. If I flick the car or enter the way a person trying to drift is supposed to enter it will lock the wheels up. Once Im in drift and at a reasonable angle, the e-brake works as it should.
I know that Jeremy Lowe and Dan Chiltons e-brakes are the same way.
deal with that hydro e-brake boissss.
My e-brake does not do a DAMN THING if I pull it up going in a straight line. No matter how hard or fast I pull it. If I flick the car or enter the way a person trying to drift is supposed to enter it will lock the wheels up. Once Im in drift and at a reasonable angle, the e-brake works as it should.
I know that Jeremy Lowe and Dan Chiltons e-brakes are the same way.
deal with that hydro e-brake boissss.
NismoTuner21
Driver
Hahaha, you're an amazing driver bro <3
One day, when I get a cage, I wanna ride your door.
And Dj, when he posted those pics, I stared for like 15 minutes, no lie. 17x10 -18 and 17x11 -1!! mnmmm
You directing that ebrake stuff at me? lol
Heres what i do at cfrc. 1st to 2nd, as i come closer to where i initiate, i move the car to the left slightly, then flick it right, pull ebrake, once i have decent angle, ebrake goes down, clutch kick, full throttle for a sec or 2, let off throttle, transition, clutch kick, full throttle, then bog halfway around the turn.... fucking stock ka!
Heres what i do at cfrc. 1st to 2nd, as i come closer to where i initiate, i move the car to the left slightly, then flick it right, pull ebrake, once i have decent angle, ebrake goes down, clutch kick, full throttle for a sec or 2, let off throttle, transition, clutch kick, full throttle, then bog halfway around the turn.... fucking stock ka!
No, I wasnt. I was directing it to everyone that thinks they have to have a hydro e-brake to drift properly.
I linked the last track setup at CFRC in the slowest underpowered KA car ever. You need to add about 5-7 more clutch kicks. Dont be scared of clutch kicks in a KA car. You arnt making ANYWHERE NEAR ENOUGH power to break stuff. If you have a stock clutch, it might wear it out a bit faster, but you need an upgraded clutch anyways.
I dont wanna hear anymore KA cars downshifting to 1st gear at CFRC. Keep it in second and hammer that clutch. You wont break anything.
Im sure its been said before, but have high tire pressure in a KA car. Most of y'all stock KA kids are on 15/16 inch high profile tires anyways, so you'll still have latteral grip cause the tire is so big. I would run 40psi in the stock KA car I had for a few months on 195/60/15's.
NismoTuner21
Driver
Who ever said hydros are necessary?
I've heard people say numerous times, " I cant wait to get my hydro in so I can come out and drift."
Vaughn Gittin Jr's mustang has a cable brake. Chris Forsebergs 350z has a cable brake.
I just think hydraulic handbrakes are dumb cause there is that much more shit that could go wrong. I've personally seen 3 hydraulic handbrakes blow out and leave the driver without an e-brake at all.
NismoTuner21
Driver
Trueee, well I'm just disappointed with my e-brake, it usually locks up well, but at PBIR it was sooo inconsistent, Harri was the one who told me to get a hydro because Z32 drum brakes suck.
Good pads and rotors when you were at pbir?^^? Makes a difference.
More clutch kicks? hmm... i dunno, i probably put in about 15-20 clutck kicks each run. More you say? Guess i'll have to try it out.
Stage 2 lux clutch in my car that grabs good. Never shift into first on my run unless i spin.
Tire pressure was set at 45psi on some 205/55 on s14 se's. Probably gonna try 50psi next time.
More clutch kicks? hmm... i dunno, i probably put in about 15-20 clutck kicks each run. More you say? Guess i'll have to try it out.
Stage 2 lux clutch in my car that grabs good. Never shift into first on my run unless i spin.
Tire pressure was set at 45psi on some 205/55 on s14 se's. Probably gonna try 50psi next time.
NismoTuner21
Driver
Brake shoes are pretty much new, rotors are old though. My car doesn't use the caliper for the e-brake.
Harri gets all pumped about hydro hand brakes. Haha.
I really like the school car with a hydro handbrake, but I wouldn't put it in my car. It makes your brake pedal feel all funny too.
NismoTuner21
Driver
Ya, I've only driven one car with a hydro, the pedal feels funny if you're using the hydro at the same time.
metalrocks12
Driver
^ yea it did feel realy funny
i still wonder why it didnt work
i still wonder why it didnt work
how doesnt it help...
and bearcat... pat, i really like the cable brake too, never really had too much use for it, but the one in my hardparked piece of shit now is SIIICK!
boxmod
Driver
my cable and my hydro have both been this way... however, im was stock calipers and duralast pads with the cable, and upgraded to project mu pads with the hydro, still on stock calipers.
my old setup (cable/duralast) would lock with a hard flick and/or with the slight addition of foot brake. now with the hydro, nearly the same technique is needed to have it lock up.
cable adjusted properly and with proper pads would prolly be sweet (lock up in straight line) up to like decent 235s or 17x8s. You start upping the wheel size and width and tire width, that brake has to instantly lock MORE intertia (and bigger wheel = more moment of intertia as the weight is farther from the center), and rubber. means its not going to lock without some help 99% of the time. when I had really bad entrys last friday, I kept telling people to not ride my 1/4 panel down the straight cuz i need a flick to get it to hang out hard enough. (hydro/stock calipers/mu pads/265s on 18x9.5).
the PROBLEM with hydro is unless you have better than stock calipers. The reason is the 'screw' type of caliper we have instead of a piston. the 'best' setup is also going to be a seperate caliper with a resevoir on the hydroHB itself. the upgraded caliper (piston) will hold much stronger force and the seperate resevoir/caliper setup will get rid of the 'battle' you feel with your foot. runnin it inline means the fluid is connected to both hand and foot, so if you use both, you can feel pressure pushing one of them up as the other activates. its not impossible to get used to- but it is annoying.
Pat, maybe you've seen hyrdos blowt out, ever seen a cable break? Mine did in 2006!
cody_ettl13
Driver
^lol
boxmod
Driver
lol.dont get me wrong, i'd recommend to anyone to stay cable until you can upgrade the calipers (on a 240) and make sure its good pads. your talking some good $$ when all that is added up. cable should be fine if its adjusted right. but its not like hydroHB is the devil, but its not 100% needed.