Understanding Aftermarket S-Chassi Suspension Components

Okami

Hashashiyyin
Driver
Requesting a in dept explenation of these part's? I'm having a allignment issue, and I need to know what these part's can do to fix my toe, camber etc. :D

Competition S13/14 Tension Rods
NTensionrodsthumb.jpg


Competition S13 Rear Camber Arms
NRucasthumb.jpg


Competition S13/14 Rear Toe Connecting Rods
NToearmsthumb.jpg


Competition S13/14 Traction Control Arms
Ntractionrodsthumb.jpg
 
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Nunook

Driver
1) tension rods give u front caster adjustment
2) rear Camber arms give u -> tada rear camber adjustment
3) rear TOE arms give u -> duh rear toe adjustment, lol
4) rear traction rods give u more traction cause ur wheels dont more back and forth when tryin to gain grip. also they adjust rear caster, but i dont think alignment racks can read that.

this was really ridiculous
 
B

banger9000

just get the adjustable camber bolts for the front because rear camber in the 240 is adjustable, take the car to get alingned and the car should be fine after that.
if you already have all those parts they should have a list of specifications so you can give it to whoever is doing the alingnment because the specs that are on the machine are oem and if u put all those parts on your car the alingnment rack wont know what to do. if you dont have all those parts and u want to fix the problem get some high performace sway bars and tower bars that will prevent body roll because ur suspencion is in a box per say. that puts less stress on your allingment components stoping them to go hell as soon as you make that first drift run after getting ur car alingned.
 

Piner

GlobeTrotter
Driver
they also get rid of alot of slop in your suspension because they use sperical barriengs insted of 15 year old rubber bushings, makes your susp much more responsive and predictable
 

Okami

Hashashiyyin
Driver
Piner said:
they also get rid of alot of slop in your suspension because they use sperical barriengs insted of 15 year old rubber bushings, makes your susp much more responsive and predictable

this goes for everything?
 
i will give you a good response since #1. everyone else is being **** which is my job #2. nobody on here really knows **** except for me and finally #3 I am in between jerkoff sessions and need something to do.

first off, it would be pointless to tell you the capabilities of these various arms since you are obviously not intelligent enough to figure things out on your own. if you can't decipher the hidden meaning behind words like "toe arm" what is to say you can figure out if you need said arm?

I would reccomend first and foremost to obtain aftermarket Tension/Compression rods. Like my man Piner said, the replacement of the factor bushing with a spherical heim joint will get rid of "slop" or yawing in the front end. stability will also be gained under heavy loads such as high amounts of steering angle at abnormal G-loads where the "slack" in the rubber bushing combined with the pencil-like rigidity cause massive vibration resulting in instability. The T/C rod is also the lower arms only forward link to the chassis and will alleviate stress and shaking under heavy braking conditions. not to mention the ability to adjust castor which , in your situation would not necessarily be a performance benefit but will allow you to get alignment to spec if your chassis is slightly bent or your rods now are bent.

Your car is not low enough to need the rear camber arms, you should still be able to get alignment within factory spec. even if you are running too much rear camber the effects won't be noticable either on your drifting or daily driving. you are not at the level to #1 need to adjust rear camber and #2 to even notice the difference. obiously tire wear is a concern but this is a drifting forum so don't whine about that ****

Unless you tank-slapped a curb dirty style you don't need toe arms either. Factory spec should be obtainable. you most likely won't be able to realize the benefits of the spherical bearing and you or your car aren't at the point to experiment with alignment setups.

Traction rod is the least beneficial in the bunch. most people don't even run them, instead they replace the stock bushing with a polyurethane counterpart and call it a day. there is no reason you will ever need to use the adjustments of the traction rod short of your subframe being crippled but you have bigger issues if that is the case. also, most alignment shops you take it to will have no idea how to properly measure the geometry of the rear suspension. again, you will not notice the missing slack from the bushing replacement.

In my personal opinion, really the only one that matters, there are other areas where your car is lacking that should be dealt with prior to these arms being installed. here is a list of things, in order that will make your car more competetive and fun:

1. Suspension ( real suspension...i mean... who are you kidding with that s-tech crap?)
2. LSD
3. T/C Rods
4. Subframe Spacers
5. Tie rod w/Ends (spherical heim joint....don't be a fag!)
6. RUCA's
7. Toe rod
8. Replace other bushings like FLCA, Traction rod, etc
 
i know you can just set it to factory spec and make use of the rigidity of the heim joint. the fact is that okami wouldn't be able to notice that big of a difference by replacing 1 non-essential bushing in the rear suspension. considering the cost, it would not be worth it for HIM. I will be running the SPLPARTS traction rod but that is because i am rad beyond belief!
 
man stock stuff is fine, change your tie rods and tc rods nothing else needs to be changed if it made it thru 20yrs its stronger than you are... besides, adjustable just means it cost more when it breaks
 

Piner

GlobeTrotter
Driver
plus you could probly make those arms for less than what they are asking
(do i smell a project!!?)
 

Tonymac

P I Z Z A
Driver
Uras of the East said:
here is the problem they use heim joints (metal) so that means you will be constantly adding grease to them, if you are not thinking on going 100% into drifting or auto X or any kind of motosport i wouldnt recomend them, I have them myself and they are really loud. If you want your to be more stiff, thicker sway bar, coilovers and subframe spacers should do it.

No. I've probably had heim joints in my car longer than anyone else here and I have never once had to grease them and they make no noise. The problem is people buy cheap stuff with grease fittings b/c they want to save a buck. Which parts do you have? SPL parts and other high quality aftermarket suspension links don't need a grease fitting b/c the bearing is teflon treated.

Nunook said:
1) tension rods give u front caster adjustment
2) rear Camber arms give u -> tada rear camber adjustment
3) rear TOE arms give u -> duh rear toe adjustment, lol
4) rear traction rods give u more traction cause ur wheels dont more back and forth when tryin to gain grip. also they adjust rear caster, but i dont think alignment racks can read that.

this was really ridiculous

Wrong on number 4. Rear 'traction rods' will completely alter the geometry of your suspension (intended to fine tune bumpsteer). It's not something any alignment rack can measure. You go out, do a lap, pit in, make a settings change, do another lap, see how it feels, adjust as needed and repeate. It's a racing part. If you plan on just 'setting it and forgetting it' but still really want to eliminate those rubber bushings, press some spherical bearings into stock traction rods (or send them out to have them done).

banger9000 said:
just get the adjustable camber bolts for the front because rear camber in the 240 is adjustable, take the car to get alingned and the car should be fine after that.
if you already have all those parts they should have a list of specifications so you can give it to whoever is doing the alingnment because the specs that are on the machine are oem and if u put all those parts on your car the alingnment rack wont know what to do. if you dont have all those parts and u want to fix the problem get some high performace sway bars and tower bars that will prevent body roll because ur suspencion is in a box per say. that puts less stress on your allingment components stoping them to go hell as soon as you make that first drift run after getting ur car alingned.

No, a swaybar more or less acts as a helper spring. It does nothing for the stiffness of the chassis. When one side of the suspension compresses in cornering, the sway bar increases the 'spring rate' of the side receiving the most load. You are correct in saying that a car is more or less a box and yes, strut tower bars will stiffen up that box. Don't waste your money on the expensive stuff though...just get some cheap ebay strut bars, they do the same thing.

GreazyMule said:
first off, it would be pointless to tell you the capabilities of these various arms since you are obviously not intelligent enough to figure things out on your own. if you can't decipher the hidden meaning behind words like "toe arm" what is to say you can figure out if you need said arm?

I agree but disagree at the same time. I've seen the poster say on numerous occasions that he doesn't really care about drifting that much. If that's the case and this is just a hobby, stay away from race parts! If he's getting more serious though, at least he's asking questions to learn.

GreazyMule said:
Your car is not low enough to need the rear camber arms, you should still be able to get alignment within factory spec. even if you are running too much rear camber the effects won't be noticable either on your drifting or daily driving. you are not at the level to #1 need to adjust rear camber and #2 to even notice the difference. obiously tire wear is a concern but this is a drifting forum so don't whine about that ****

Camber doesn't affect tire wear much at all in daily driving. Toe is the real killer. I run -2.75 (f) and -2 (r) with 0 toe and have almost perfect tire wear.

GreazyMule said:
In my personal opinion, really the only one that matters, there are other areas where your car is lacking that should be dealt with prior to these arms being installed. here is a list of things, in order that will make your car more competetive and fun:

1. Suspension ( real suspension...i mean... who are you kidding with that s-tech crap?)
2. LSD
3. T/C Rods
4. Subframe Spacers
5. Tie rod w/Ends (spherical heim joint....don't be a fag!)
6. RUCA's
7. Toe rod
8. Replace other bushings like FLCA, Traction rod, etc

Agreed 100%.
 

Okami

Hashashiyyin
Driver
i never said i wanted ALL that stuff.... i just need to fix my front camber
good info on ALL that stuff would have made this a good post though.
 

Piner

GlobeTrotter
Driver
if you need to fix your front camber ..... get coilovers with camber plates beotch!
 

Tonymac

P I Z Z A
Driver
Uras of the East said:
Simple Bro, Have You Ever Heard Of Camber Bolts, Camber Plates, And Plus Why You Want O Fix Your Camber,(remember The Reason Why Tires Get Eaten Is Beacuse Of Toe Not Camber)

Well, the chances of his car being cambered in exactly the same on both sides is slim to none. Having the camber set even alongside toe will ensure a straight driving car (assuming the chassis is not borked).

Okami, I'd say go with the camber plates. Road noise will increase slightly but the benefits far outweigh the negatives to me. I dislike eccentric bolts because they have a tendancy to move under hard driving and since you take your car to the track, they will move. You can purchase eccentric bolts and save a buck, get an alignment, and mark the settings though. After a day of hard driving, check for changes and adjust accordingly. It won't be dead-on-balls-accurate, but it will be close enough.
 
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s-tech and gr2s rock... will do the exact same **** as $3k coilovers except break your kneck or give you spinal tap from daily driving in south florida... ppl that say springs and shocks suck are the ones who wasted their money on coilovers and got schooled by someone runnin shocks and springs so now they feel stupid lol
 

Tonymac

P I Z Z A
Driver
Alchemist XL said:
s-tech and gr2s rock... will do the exact same **** as $3k coilovers except break your kneck or give you spinal tap from daily driving in south florida... ppl that say springs and shocks suck are the ones who wasted their money on coilovers and got schooled by someone runnin shocks and springs so now they feel stupid lol

That is NOT true at all. Shocks and springs have the same FUNCTION, but they are not even close to being exactly the same as coilovers. I'm not saying they suck, I'll give credit due where credit's earned...gr2's and s-techs are definitely a vast improvement over stock parts, but to classify them as being on the same level as coilovers would be like saying a Mustang and a Z06 are exactly the same. And like, OMG, you are so witty with that spinal tap reference. I mean, how clever. Riding in a stiff car in South Florida will definitely cause a needle to puncture my spinal canal and extract fluid.
 

Tonymac

P I Z Z A
Driver
Okami said:
you should get real suspension, like uras and dori and grezy and santi etc... :rolleyes:

Hey, guess what? I have a spring/shock combo too. KYB Buzz Spec struts with Ground Control coilover sleeves and Tein camber plates. I couldn't count how many times people laughed or joked about my setup b/c Ground Controls are not real coilovers.
 

Piner

GlobeTrotter
Driver
Well you guys are lucky that they have coilovers for your cars i'd have to do the GC's and thats my best option is GC's with either KYB AGX's or tokico illuminas,

and not all coilovers ride rough either and even those perform better than spring and shock combo hell the JIC A1's have like 7/5 kg/mm springs or the comfort spec from tanabe they arnt very stiff at all but they still handle awesome and have full dampaning ajustablity, camber plates and you can lower them without sacrificeing suspension travel.

Plus if your so worried about your camber and want eo get camber plate those usally make your ride qualty worse since they use pillowball upper mounts and hell most coilovers you can get them without pillowball upper mounts and ride pretty smooth.

But I would in no way compair the performance of a good coilover to the persormance of a shock and strut combo since there is no compairison
 

z4k

Super Mod
Driver
S13 Grip said:
Hey anthony i was looking at the GC's for S13s and they only lowe the car 0-2inches? and what spring rates do they carry?

They offer just about any spring rate you want. They Use Eibach coils. You just tell them the spring rate you want or order them later not bad at $50 a coil.

BTW When I ran the on my Sentra I cut the Spring perches and it allowed for more drop. but I also Had the Lower the Strut mount down the strut body more so you get the full travel of the strut.

 
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Tonymac

P I Z Z A
Driver
S13 Grip said:
Hey anthony i was looking at the GC's for S13s and they only lowe the car 0-2inches? and what spring rates do they carry?

Spring rates, almost any. As for the lowering, that has to do with the lack of suspension travel on the front of an s13...go too low and you're riding on bump stops. I use 450 lbs/in front and 350 lbs/in rear FYI.
 
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