S13 Ka-t idles good shuts off when given quick jab of gas

ya I have one of those but what am i connecting to it

EDIT: the Tee I connect to the brake booster line im guessing im adding the bov and turbo vacuums to it? what about the two nipples on the wastegate?
 
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figured thx man, going to my parents to get outta the attic that vac tee part that connects to the brake booster, it has 4 ports, gonna connect the bov and turbo forsure just gotta research the wastegate nipples in the mean time.
 
Your fpr is set to 35 you said? Up it to 41ish...

I forgot what you said last time... What kind of fuel pump do you have? Stock or aftermarket?

Is your fuel pump rewired?

Have someone look at your fpr gauge when you step on the gas, ask them to see what your gauge does.
 
Your fpr is set to 35 you said? Up it to 41ish...

I forgot what you said last time... What kind of fuel pump do you have? Stock or aftermarket?

Is your fuel pump rewired?

Have someone look at your fpr gauge when you step on the gas, ask them to see what your gauge does.

Why not just rev it from the throttle body and look yourself?
 
tried moving the maf out further from the turbo? i had a friend a with a single cam ka-t with the maf butted up to the turbo like that and was having all kinds of stalling issues. we ended moving the maf further from the turbo and wa la.

also for the blow off valve you want manifold vacuum and not throttle body vacuum.
(the difference is manifold at idle 18" of hg, 0 pressure, if n/a, at wot. and throttle body vacuum would be the opposite, but in reality you would probably see a few inches of hg at idle with tb vacuum because the tb doesnt close completely and because of the iacv)

but if your teeing your bov from the large rubber hose coming off the intake, then your problem more than likely lies there. tee into the brake booster hose before the check valve, or at the vacuum source for the fpr.
 
thanks guys learned alot past 2 days here much appreciated, ive heard about the maf being to close being a problem should definitely try that. as for the fuel pump its my second walbro because I thought I had issues with the first one. js I had it up to 41-43 and it back fired alot so i lowered it, when I gave it gas the gauge needle just wiggles alot... which is now making me think theres a big vac/boost leak? I searched this diagram up and im gonna route my bov, FPR, and wastegate like this.

VacuumRouting.jpg



EDIT: also would I have to connect my FPR to the brakebooster or could I just leave it connected to the stock vacuum line connection?
 
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my catch can only has two ports and that looks more like an option any way so im gonna pass on that part lol

EDIT: only thing is since theres two vacuum lines on the wastegate how do I know which one ends to the brakebooster? does it even matter?
 
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no stock vacuum port there.. its all gone.. lol

EDIT: and the side one? what lol if your facing the engine bay on the waste gate one is on the right and one is on the left of it

---------- Post added at 06:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:11 PM ----------

UPDATE: had problems with the jgs so I put back that small stock part back in and it runs again, do I replace that piece with the tee off or put it in line with it (small part that says engine with a arrow to the left on it) if so left of it or right of it.

---------- Post added 08-10-2012 at 02:08 PM ---------- Previous post was 08-09-2012 at 06:58 PM ----------

hmmm basically I cant hold vac when I hav the bov and wastegate connected to it so im gonna try the bov by itself and go from there.
 
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.... frustrating... I cant connect anything to the brakebooster, if I do when I finally do get it on, it turns on for alittle maybe 15-20 seconds and shuts off.. must be a vacuum leak? cannot find the dam thing... shit!
 
honestly i wouldnt use the booster for vac source for the block
try another source of vac...for the block
u should run wastegate on turbo side...
fpr by itself...
and bov u can t off for gauge
 
I checked for vac leaks with throttle body spray today... nothing changed.. my car has trouble starting and most of the starts are bouncy idle for afew secs and shuts off... after 10-12 trys it starts idling at 900-1000 with the quick jab of gas stalling problem... dammit
 
west of lantana and lyons 561-880-1155, I put the stock ecu in and it started right up... it has trouble getting the idle when I hit the gas ( bounces back to around 800-900 ) I pulled ecu codes 14, 21, 34

---------- Post added at 06:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:22 PM ----------

maybe stock ecu with "hacked" stock maf, lower fuel pressure?

---------- Post added at 06:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:27 PM ----------

putted the emance tune back in had trouble starting... idles and revved better.. but only started 1 out of 10 tries half the tries it started idle jumping... The emance ecu threw codes 21 and 34

---------- Post added at 07:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:58 PM ----------

hey guys my project for tomorrow is to try a blow through setup moving my maf before the throttle and moving my bov to the hot side. figured its worth a try?
 
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