RB20 swap??

madcowCONV said:
no thats just to put the motor into your car.




6>4. plus you get the sexy sound of a inline 6
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putting an engine in a car based on sound isnt much of a pro vs con. Sides it be sexier sounding with a v8 or a VQ35
 
its a nice motor cause it can take a punishing, with the same power that an sr puts down this one can do it, and it can take the power better, cause its more stable than the 4's. also the one big thing that i was looking into this motor was the high rev's. i can one day build it up to be able to rev to 9k, and the tranny can take it. unlike the sr's there tranny's cant. its just a better motor cause of the stabilty of the 6>4. plus it sounds good.

thanks rwd rea. i cant wait to do this swap. i will do it after i finsh closing on my condo. hopefully

oh and btw this is not a debate thread, this is a thread on how to swap it. i dont want a sr vs rb on this so lets not even go there here, all i want to know is what it takes to get it done! we can start a vs thread elsewhere please!!!!!!
 
I did a burnout until my tires popped on my last rb20. I was bouncing off the revlimiter the entire time in 3 gear. Those engines can take lots of abuse. I have never had one break on me. Unless it was my fault. IE manual boost controller ate some valves.....
 
Mars said:
putting an engine in a car based on sound isnt much of a pro vs con. Sides it be sexier sounding with a v8 or a VQ35
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you could do that but here is a pro/con.

as nice as v8's and vq's are it is cheaper to stick an rb in your car. Especially the rb20's it's an inexpensive motor, i have seen them cheaper then sr's in some places. I am a big fan of the ls1 swap but the price range was too baller for me that's why i stuck with the rb25. Many companies have made th RB swap so easy that you can do it your self in just as much time as it would take you to swap in a sr or do a ka-t.
 
ok one more thing i need to ask, do i need to get like that safc or something like that for the car with this motor? and do i need anything else like a boast controller? i was looking at the for sale thread with the super afr i wanted to know should i buy that? again please tell me cause i dont know turbo stuff to well and what i need.
 
i say i u dont know if u need it then u shouldnt buy it!!!!!!!!!!

no safc for the swap
no boost control for the swap
this is what u need
1.mount kit(unless usin r32 subframe)
2.wiring service(splice both ka/rb harness together)
3.upgrade fuel pump/fuel filter
4.guages(oilpress./boost)
5.upgraded radiator/hoses
6.oem parts(waterpump/oilpump/belt/idler/tensioner)
7.frontmount intercooler/recir bov
8.upgrade clutch/flywheel

that should it and u have a basic swap!

any more questions or can we lock this?
 
If i were you i would leave the car bone stock and drive it around like that.Makes no sense in spending money on a motor that you realy have no idea will do. the only thing you should buy is a boost gauge and wideband.
 
drftnR14 said:
7.frontmount intercooler/recir bov

any more questions or can we lock this?
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Sounds like my swap lol. but the recirculating BOV is the only thing i dont get. mine is atmospherical and i have no ideal problems. the only turbo 240's that really have that problem is Ka-T's
 
Any car with a MAF will have that problem. Back when I was a ricer, I had a turbo xs RFl on the merk, and although it sounded cool, would cause the car to buck and want to die.
 
drftnR14 said:
i say i u dont know if u need it then u shouldnt buy it!!!!!!!!!!

no safc for the swap
no boost control for the swap
this is what u need
1.mount kit(unless usin r32 subframe)
2.wiring service(splice both ka/rb harness together)
3.upgrade fuel pump/fuel filter
4.guages(oilpress./boost)
5.upgraded radiator/hoses
6.oem parts(waterpump/oilpump/belt/idler/tensioner)
7.frontmount intercooler/recir bov
8.upgrade clutch/flywheel

that should it and u have a basic swap!

any more questions or can we lock this?
Click to expand...

sounds good then i will do this, but as for the front mount should i get a differnet intake manifold so that its on the other side? and also how does the recir bov work? thanks
 
Recirculating BOV does the same thing as a normal bov, but it dumps the air back into the intake vs to the atmosphere. You don't get that ubercool WHOOSH, but you do get your car to run normal.
 
ooooo i want the ubercool whooosh, haha. is it a big differnce in running? and is it hard to go from recir to atmos?
 
Michael Star said:
Recirculating BOV does the same thing as a normal bov, but it dumps the air back into the intake vs to the atmosphere. You don't get that ubercool WHOOSH, but you do get your car to run normal.
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my car runs fine with a MAF and i get my cool woosh..
 
How much boost do you run? When I was running 20+ psi with a MAF and vented to the atmosphere, it would studder and try to die on me. What happens is that the MAF calculates the amount of incomming air, and matches the fuel with it. When you vent that air out of the system, the computer still thinks it should dump in all that fuel, and you run super rich.
 
where was your maf loactaed? on the intake or in front of the I/M? right now i am at stock boost but i have many freinds with sr's that run 15-18lbs and have never had a problem. what motor did you have?
 
On my rb i have the maf on the intake tube. so the my cars setup is diffrent then yours. you have a blow by setup or atleast thats what i think its called.
 
Blow through. I was running a normal draw through setup on the ka-t and an atmospheric blow off. It never stuttered because I had an safc II to compensate...
 
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