Na Ka

Kenrik

Driver
RICKY SILEIGHTY said:
Originally Posted by
no one can say they need more 250whp on the streets



No he's not kidding Rick... He should go tell the Dodge guys they don't need the 340HP the charger comes with stock... Or those crazy Chevy guys with the 400hp Corvettes Stock... or hmm the 350Zs with 300HP.. Honda S2000s with 260hp....

Nope you're right Ricky... no one can say they need more then 250hp on the streets... :p
 
240SicknessX said:
ur kidding me right?














are you really going to stand behind that statement?
Well let me rephrase that, I don't need that kind of power in the streets because I don't street race, and it's not needed 2 drift. I have a 3 year old daughter 2 live for so N/A KA is good enough for me. I also have a KA-T that i'm building just for the track . :D
 

green_machine

Gay_machine
Driver
the only reason to keep the ka is because u have it... It's always cheaper if u have an engine already, but if i found an sr20det at u pull it i would buy it and put it in my car, but u cant find them, u gotta ship them from japan and dont know the condition. I bought a b16 from japan with "60,000 KM" and it blew a rod within 6 months- and honda engines last a long time. I'm doing a ka-t project now and it takes a lot of time & effort but then again I dont have 2500 bucks to get a used motor with "60,000 km"- i like getting new things and for the 2500 bucks i can have a new turbo and a rebuilt ka and custom manifold and piping and a FMIC. To do that to an sr20 it would cost the same + the cost of the motor to begin with.

I think the displacement argument is stupid. More displacement is always better (not considering engine design). and -Duh a economy low reving 2.4 liter is going to make less HP than a 2.0 higher reving turbo engine.
 

Three5oZee

Driver
well, i just sat here and read all three pages of 'back and forth'' arguing about which engine is better. in all actuality, both engines have their good an bad....they are pretty much equal in every sinse other than the obvious turbo. the sr is weak down in the block...very strong up top...and vise versa for the ka....that ka has strong components down below...and the last time i checked...its much cheaper to rebuild the top end than the bottom...and lets not forget...the sr20de does not compair to the ka24de...both being n/a motors correct?...obviously the literage is different...but other than that...there is no compairison.

now, yes, the sr20det costs around 2700.... its a good deal, yes...and the engine is tuned... yes, all just plug an play basically, yes.... thats all good. for a little more work..the ka24de can be turbo for the same numbers and tuned thanks to greddy~~~> http://www.intensepower.com/grtukit249.html
... i am acutally planing to do this in february....just getting my numbers together... 2700 for the greddy set up with fuel rail..pre programed emanage piggyback......all the turbo piping and needed parts...fuel injectors..then u spend 700 more for the intercooler...and your golden....so your spending 3 thousand an some change.... at 6psi your runing harder than the sr which boosts at wut 8psi..?this is with 250 to the flywheel.....everything after that is just what you do...to make more get to the wheels...... but anyway... i think this arguement has just made me decide to just put that money into my Z an go turbo...just so i can eat up those damn corvettes ...god i hate them...always making me look bad lol.....

no but seriously....both engines are good.... but thats just it... life is all about choices....you choose your engine and like it! lol

J
 
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Three5oZee said:
well, i just sat here and read all three pages of 'back and forth'' arguing about which engine is better. in all actuality, both engines have their good an bad....they are pretty much equal in every sinse other than the obvious turbo. the sr is weak down in the block...very strong up top...and vise versa for the ka....that ka has strong components down below...and the last time i checked...its much cheaper to rebuild the top end than the bottom...and lets not forget...the sr20de does not compair to the ka24de...both being n/a motors correct?...obviously the literage is different...but other than that...there is no compairison.

now, yes, the sr20det costs around 2700.... its a good deal, yes...and the engine is tuned... yes, all just plug an play basically, yes.... thats all good. for a little more work..the ka24de can be turbo for the same numbers and tuned thanks to greddy~~~> http://www.intensepower.com/grtukit249.html
... i am acutally planing to do this in february....just getting my numbers together... 2700 for the greddy set up with fuel rail..pre programed emanage piggyback......all the turbo piping and needed parts...fuel injectors..then u spend 700 more for the intercooler...and your golden....so your spending 3 thousand an some change.... at 6psi your runing harder than the sr which boosts at wut 8psi..?this is with 250 to the flywheel.....everything after that is just what you do...to make more get to the wheels...... but anyway... i think this arguement has just made me decide to just put that money into my Z an go turbo...just so i can eat up those damn corvettes ...god i hate them...always making me look bad lol.....

no but seriously....both engines are good.... but thats just it... life is all about choices....you choose your engine and like it! lol

J
True true...
 

S13 Slide

Driver
I like SR's but if i had money to buy an SR I would put it into rebuilding the KA rather then spending it on a USED motor which most of them were probly raced and drifted to sht in japan....and I have herd of so many people getting ripped off, not getting there motor, something FCKing up after the install....loosing parts, stuff like that....btw the stock SR's in totally STOCK form makes ~175whp at the stock 7psi while the ka at 8psi makes 230-240whp been dynoed a million times, the sr has no low end, turboing the ka you already have the low end, the ka has no top end,adding the turbo fixes that....now where the real difference in power is the ka having higher compression also bigger intercooler, intake blah blah but still I'd rather keep what I have.....plus I LOVE MY KA.
haha PICK ONE
SR-SILLY RICER
SR-SUCKERS RACING

KA-KICK ***

hahah just thought I would share this with you guys lol

one thing to add to this post is the quality of sr parts are the **** while I havent seen any ka-t's with the same quality parts the sr's get.....but still KA>SR to me, everybody has there own tastes there own views, there own power they want to get....I personaly dont care which motor is in my S13 as long as it makes power...but if i had a choice ka. WHICH i do its already in my car FOR FREE!! :D
 
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Ricky, someone will never be sold an SR20 with 100,000 miles on it. Seriously, that statement was beyond frustrating. When you buy a japanese engine through a credible source, the engine mileage is (in most cases) between 40k-80k miles. And even still, you dont need to change all that **** that you say needs to be.
This thread needs to be closed already, its just your personal preference of how much bull**** you want to go through and how much money you want to spend. Both engines will have their problems obviously, but look at Rick and how much **** he went through to get that ka-t project running well. He did an amazing job and has had it running for over 8k miles, but what Im saying is that no matter which engine you decide to build, your always gonna run into problems and it wont be smooth sailing like some of you think it will be. Turboing an n/a car isnt a walk in park. If you are going to turbo an n/a car, you have to make sure your financially able to handle problems that would/could arise.
 

m4nfred

ima let the steel hit ya
Driver
KAboom

ive riddin in fast ka's, running good reliable, for racing....to me, if your gonna go street race, than go ka-t, more torque right, good for t3h street race...but, you beat the piss out of it, and imho, i think ittl pop, after having blown up 4 of em, i just dont trust em, and wut does a stock ka put down, 135whp around there, and thats a good running one, sr 170~ish, doesnt seem like that bad of an upgrade for the price, now if your building both, i guess ka would be a little better, but, looking at it thru money, ka cant do mutch on stock block, sr can do like 500's stock block....would u rather beat the piss out of a motor making 75 whp more (sr), or a motor making like 120 whp (ka) over stock, the more power u make over stock, more stress. and no, i dont miss the torque...at all, thats wut the clutch is there for
 
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green_machine

Gay_machine
Driver
altezzagirl said:
Ricky, someone will never be sold an SR20 with 100,000 miles on it. Seriously, that statement was beyond frustrating. When you buy a japanese engine through a credible source, the engine mileage is (in most cases) between 40k-80k miles. And even still, you dont need to change all that **** that you say needs to be.

The only way to know how many miles are on an engine is to get a front clip with guage cluster. I dont believe anyone who imports engines, they just want to sell. If a redtop from 1991 (or whenever year they came out) has 40K-80K. Thats like at most 5.7K miles a year (that's a small ammount)... but wait, most engine importers will say 40-80k Kilometers which cuts that number a little less than in half. Unless a 15 year old engine has been sitting around for 10 years, it's highly unlikely for it to only have that many miles (and yes ive heard it before: in japan they drive less).

Three5oZee said:
the sr is weak down in the block...very strong up top...and vise versa for the ka....that ka has strong components down below...and the last time i checked...its much cheaper to rebuild the top end than the bottom...

I think you're confused. In order to rev high (top end) u need a strong top and bottom end. The ka has a "strong bottom end" as in a lot of torque. The sr has "top end" as in rev's high and gains hp at higher rpms. the sr is all around better if not equal in all aspects (If you've taken both motors apart u would agree)... but that doesn't mean the ka is not good. Also the head components of cars are not going to be stressed AS MUCH as the bottom end with an added turbo as long as u stay within the stock limit.

+ sr stuff is readily available. THey are just starting to make good parts for ka's. Before there was barely any aftermarket for ka's, Thats why the sr got so big here. If u wanted to turbo a ka it was all custom. It was probably less than an sr20 and much easier.

+Anyone spitting out HP @ PSI should know that the size of the turbo makes the most difference. Yeah, a ka with a mini-t25 might make 215 hp at 7PSI and one with a t04e turbo might make 240 hp at 7psi. If u make a claim of HP @ psi also say with which turbo.

- last---- if u dont want to read the thread then dont click on it.
 
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DRIFTING = SR20...

DRAG RACING = KA-T...

SHOW = nowadays is the KA-T...



IF... <--see that, if lol...

anyway, IF, the KA was such a better motor and etc. than the SR then I'm sure the smart little japs overseas would be all running KA-T's in D1GP.. **** even in AMERICA they would all be running KA-Ts... there is only one or two people that are using KA-T in Formula D and they **** be expensive and they still cant compete with the SRs... now blah blah blah its the driver blah blah blah
 
altezzagirl said:
Ricky, someone will never be sold an SR20 with 100,000 miles on it. Seriously, that statement was beyond frustrating. When you buy a japanese engine through a credible source, the engine mileage is (in most cases) between 40k-80k miles. And even still, you dont need to change all that **** that you say needs to be.
This thread needs to be closed already, its just your personal preference of how much bull**** you want to go through and how much money you want to spend. Both engines will have their problems obviously, but look at Rick and how much **** he went through to get that ka-t project running well. He did an amazing job and has had it running for over 8k miles, but what Im saying is that no matter which engine you decide to build, your always gonna run into problems and it wont be smooth sailing like some of you think it will be. Turboing an n/a car isnt a walk in park. If you are going to turbo an n/a car, you have to make sure your financially able to handle problems that would/could arise.
Green machine made my point clear, how do u know engine was not beat up before they shipped it? Thats the reason why u buy the clip 2 get an idea of what u r buying, and if u r really buying the engine from a credible source they will recomend the same thing "buy the clip". Thats what J-spec recomends and they are pretty credible. If u don't agree with me fine but make sure think before u write. You did make a good point it is not smooth sailing to build any engine but if u save ur money and don't overboost your car and do the right things to keep up with your car i.e new fuel pump from a 240 that might be over ten years old and now sending more fuel 2 support 50more hp might make things easier. :D
 
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how do you know if you get a KA motor from the junkyard it wasnt beat to ****??

you check it, you can easily check gaskets on the manifolds and turbos and other many things to know if the motor is in decent condition, and if it was beat to **** and has a knock or something, if you get it anywhere local they replace it for free otherwise that's bad business.

it doesnt matter if it has a front clip or not, you can't tell what a motor has been through if it comes with the whole front end of the car, the whole car, or just a motor. you just have to take their word for it, and if they are wrong, you return it and exchange. simple as that

its not like someone in japan bought a perfectly good silvia or 180sx and cut the front end in half to sell it to america.. they are all junkyard cars and from auctions
 
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