Na Ka

I would get a SR20DET over a KA-T just for the simple fact that I pay the same price for a good motor drop it in the car in a day and drive the **** out of it without having to worry instead of spending the money on doing a KA-T and taking forever to tune it, then buying all the aftermarket **** that I need for it to run correctly and then take it easy the first couple hundred miles... when it comes down to it, the SR20DET is a better bang for the buck.. unless you want the bad BANG, then you can go blow up as many KA-Ts as you want lol.. and thats the bottom line there is no arguing to it

S13 Slide said:
If KA-T is a fanboy motor, whats an SR?

hahah PERFECT ****ing line....SR's are for people that have money and just want to be jdm tite....why get rid of a motor thats perfectly fine and even better turbocharged? Its cheaper and makes more power, Unreliable pfff the ka can take w/e you throw at it....reason why people blow up ka-t's are crappy tuning, ****y parts....boosting wayyyy to much....it mainly comes down to poor tuning...


yea you're right, KA's do run forever as long as you do routine and preventive maintenance and if you go Turbo if you have a very good tune and drive conservatively it'll last.. but so will any motor so it's just a factor of who's bandwagon is longer.... but in the end, unless you build up the internals the KA-T Chart stays like this...


Fast
Reliable
Cheap

pick two.

Fast and Reliable... won't be cheap on the wallet.
Reliable and Cheap.. won't be fast.
Cheap and Fast.. won't be reliable.


240SicknessX has a KA-T and he's put almost 10k miles since he's gone turbo... if you want to argue with anyone about KA-T start with him
 
Last edited:
To be honest the KA is the bang for your buck, if u keep boost under ten psi.Let do the math a S13 front clip will run u about $3,500 with shipping costs then it is recomended 4 u 2 upgrade ur fuel system i.e fuel pump, if the clutch is fried or if the water pump is cracked or altenator is dead guss what each one of those parts cos well over a $120 stock now ur talking about a $5,000 swap easy remember it is a used engine. Now lets tally the KA, I bought my 98" 4 $500 the engine has 42,489miles on it, and I built my turbo my self and waisted $2,500 that with boost controler, HKS SSQBOV, boost gauge, and intercoolrer, etc now after I install my turbo and boost it 2 5psi I will see 197-203whp and when I boost it 2 7psi i'll have around 230whp add 15% drivetrain loss and thats around 270crank horsepower and if some accessory brakes it won't cost over a $100. Look if u want a reliable set both are good, but bang for ur buck KA is the way 2 go if u want a show car get a SR and waist ur money on crap u might ever use. Let's recap $3,000 and 230whp or $3,500-$5,000 and 185whp you will have 2 do the samething 2 the SR as the KA eventually, just dicide what ur ultamite goal is and do ur reserch. If you are going 2 do somthing do it right the first time, unless ur rich then u can do it as much as u see fit.
 
RICKY SILEIGHTY said:
boost it 2 5psi I will see 197-203whp and when I boost it 2 7psi i'll have around 230whp add 15% drivetrain loss and thats around 270crank horsepower.

LMFAO!!!! HAHAHAH! That engine cannot handle 25psi...much less 27psi. You need to replace the bottom end with one that would be able to handle that much psi....which means youd have to buy a forged one, in which the SR already comes with it (all boosted cars do). Replacing the bottom end would cost you a pretty penny (Im not entirely sure but Im estimating around $2,000) Thats including pistons, rods, and crank. Also, if you want to go on boost, it be recommended to use ARP head studs and rod bolts. So that will run you another $300. So which is the better bang for your buck?
And Your going to build your turbo yourself? With what? If you mean REbuild a turbo yourself then thats quite acceptable. But considering the fact that your putting out rediculous figures of how much power youd be pushing, I highly doubt youd be able to rebuild a turbo yourself.

RICKY SILEIGHTY said:
Let's recap $3,000 and 230whp or $3,500-$5,000 and 185whp you will have 2 do the samething 2 the SR as the KA eventually, just dicide what ur ultamite goal is and do ur reserch. If you are going 2 do somthing do it right the first time, unless ur rich then u can do it as much as u see fit.

How about lets really recap:

SR engine = $2,000
Installation = do it yourself
Upgrades = you dont need any, unless you want to upgrade for whatever purpose. You DONT NEED an upgraded fuel system, or clutch, or anything you said. You need all that for the KA if you want to try to keep up to an SR.

I dont know where you get this crap from, but its not from the books or researching. How about you listen to what people are telling you and do your research before you post!

RICKY SILEIGHTY said:
do ur reserch

Listen to yourself.
 

Kenrik

Driver
DSCN1357.jpg


SOHC with intake and exhaust from dead stop... the KA has plenty of power stock and you can rag on it all day without worry of blowing something up.

You can Build a reliable KA-t to 250hp for about the price of a stock SR so if your KA is in good condition/has good compression then go KA-T but only if you know what you're doing (you can fix the Effer yourself) The SR is good for people who want plug and play power (drop it in and you're done)

Some people at Nico priced it out and

KA-T > SR upto 250HP

After that SR > KA-T to 450 (Cams, intake, exhaust, bigger turbo etc.. it's easy bolt ons)

Then KA-T = SR upto 6XX (both are break your bank expensive...)

Depends what you're going for... I personally would rather spend that $3000 on suspension, LSD etc.. what good is power if you can't get it to the ground? (ask Rick)
 
first of all... 7psi on a KA will give you maybe if you have supporting mods 215hp.

second of all, you can get a SR20DET for 2300$ shipped if you decide to get it from ebay, or you can go to local stores like Just Japs or Drag International and pick one up from them for about the same price, plus they give you all working parts, if something is bad, they exchange it free of charge. yea, maybe over $120 for those parts if you get them BRAND NEW.. but hey, they are the same damn price as if you got a KA pump or alternator.

third... umm it's HIGHLY recommened you change your fuel pump if you do any turbo upgrade wether a swap or just a kit, in fact I remember seeing somewhere the stock S13,S14 fuel pumps won't go over 12psi without frying

so lets see tally up these numbers the right way.

SR20DET Engine Complete, ECU, Uncut Wiring Harness, Transmission.
2000-2700.

add 90$ for a walbaro 255lph fuel pump

185hp right out of the box, then add power gains for exhaust and intakes and intercoolers if you opp to get one.

KA24DE Engine alone. (A GOOD CLEAN RUNNING LOW MILEAGE ONE)
500

155hp out of the box

now let's take a look at some of the parts needed for boosting.

manifold..
fuel injectors..
turbo..
downpipe..
intercooler..
exhaust..
wastegate..
ecu tuning..
intercooler piping..
oil lines..
gaskets..
fuel pump if you want over 12psi..

I'm sure there is more stuff also, and those parts aren't very cheap.. unless you are going to get one of those 800$ ebay kits and if that's the case I'm not going to bother arguing with you anymore because if you buy that kit you have no idea about anything on turbo'ing the KA lol

But in the end, piecing everything together and spending weeks waiting for parts, go to the local jdm shop and buy a complete motorset and install it in a day for the same price if not cheaper.

sooooooo lastly, boosting.

buy the SR20DET, home depot your *** a Manual Boost Controller for like 30$ and turn the boost to 12psi and run it daily without a problem.... spend all that money on the KA-T and run 7psi daily without a problem.. it's whatever you want to do, SR20DET will guaranteed outperform the KA-T with 12psi vs 7psi.... and you can always turn up the boost with the KA-T but your reliability goes stumbling down the hill at the same time unless you spend maddd cream and build it up. for that, get some rocker arm stoppers, manifolds, upgrade the turbo, cams, tuned ECU and new gaskets for the SR20DET and turn the boost to 15 and walk on 15psi KA-T's all day.
 

Kenrik

Driver
^^^ For the most part you don't need to buy a KA since most likely it's already in the car.. if you're talking about working from just a shell then yes the SR makes more sence! i'll do a nice little price list for a KA-T i'm not making a huge HP list with AEM managment or anything like that just one for a well powered KA-T

Turbo: $100-$500 Depending where you get it and how big

Manifold $150 (buy a kit and weld it yourself) or $300 prefabed (cast iron or welded your choice)

255lph fuel pump $80-90 shipped

Intercooler $50-$500 (either junkyard, ebay, or one of the expensive brands)

Fuel management $200-600 (used SAFC II or a JWT ECU)

Upgraded injectors $90

Cobra, Q45 or Z32 MAF $100-130 (or dirt cheap if you find one in a junkyard)

Intercooler Pipeing, Downpipe $150-400 (depends if you're doing it yourself)

Oil line kit + return Bung welded $50-100

$20 A lot of Beer and some friends to install it all..

$150 for misc crap (clamps, hoses, conectors whatever..)

$150 Dyno tune

I took the mean (arithmatic average) cost of a Ka-T build and out came out $2200 lets say it costs you a bit more so $2500 that's the same as a stock SR and you have somewhere in the range of 200-250WHP (depending on turbo etc..)

This subject has been beaten to death! There will never be a clear winner, I personally prefer the KA because I know it so well and parts for it are almost free!
 
Last edited:
Your right but if ur going 2 do somethig do it right the first time, if ur going 2 buy a engine from japan it is recomended 2 buy the whole clip, if not u will have 2 buy parts that might be missing which means a SR swap will cost atleast $3,000 plus shipping and tax. 5psi will give u 197whp power with nothing else just ur KA-T that's what my buddy got out of his 96" KA-T just the turbo. Your right but then again.......
 

kleen555

Driver
Damn finally someone knows what they are talking about. When u really break it down the SR20DET is 4 "RICERS", SORRY RICERS!

Ummmm... wow.

I'm not sure where your getting some of your info from but you might want to do some more research.
 

240SicknessX

forgot how to drive
Driver
RICKY SILEIGHTY said:
Damn finally someone knows what they are talking about. When u really break it down the SR20DET is 4 "RICERS", SORRY RICERS!

sincerly i dont think any of your posts to this forum have been helpful or informative at all. second off are you ****ing kidding me? dood until you have done a ka-t install dont rag on why people get sr's there is so much **** that happens when you try to turbo a na engine. sr is a very nice option, genrally low miles, lower compression, turbo setup, a ecu tuned for boost from nissan. im really at a loss of words of what to say to people who bash an sr for being a banwagon or cheaper or jdm, but when it comes down to it there is alot less **** to go wrong on a stock \ slightly modified sr.

mr alchemist xl, 7psi on a ka-t is not 215whp properly tuned. (dont even put my car in this) and its only been about 8500 miles to date that ive had this piece of **** contraption strapped on my exhaust side of the engine.

please dont anyone try to do competitive pricing, you can get redtop clips for 2300 shipped. i could have them once in a while for 900. same for ka-t items, you can do list but everyone has different connections for getting their stuff.

for the record its really hard to compare how much power each engine will put out with x amount of mods, 0o0 torque monster ka-t, please you can build any engine to perform with particular performance charictoristics.

:\

lebbet who ever you thought was talking about 25 and 27 psi they were ment to say TO 5 psi and TO 7psi, ka crank and rods are forged factory, and there is little discussion about the way nissan manufactured the pistons as being considered forged also, but thats a loop hole or exploit to consider them as being forged pistons. Lets just leave that topic alone supposivly they suck.

ka's blow up becuase of the owner not keeping carefull watch on their setup, there will be shakedown issues and problems with the install, if they dont keep track of what is going on bad things can happen............... another ****ing thing, it seems as if someone buys a safc and a wideband gets a few base numbes for afr and timing they think they know how to tune, you are very very wrong. read a book. another note, i really have no idea how someone in 1 hour on a dyno can give your car the most power and fuel effeciency SAFELY.

greg, you can properly select a turbo to work with a high compression engine, it has its advantages and disadvantages, defintly do able and not a bad venue if you know what you are doing. its not orthodox to turbo a high compression engine because of the higher risk/avalibility for it to detonate, but it will yeild the closest if not better then NA power and responce.

this thread is frustrating, and is the reason why they are locked instantly on ka-t and sr specific forums (and even when compared to a rb in some places).


*edit*- turbo ka's suck, peice of ****.
 
Last edited:
240SicknessX said:
sincerly i dont think any of your posts to this forum have been helpful or informative at all. second off are you ****ing kidding me? dood until you have done a ka-t install dont rag on why people get sr's there is so much **** that happens when you try to turbo a na engine. sr is a very nice option, genrally low miles, lower compression, turbo setup, a ecu tuned for boost from nissan. im really at a loss of words of what to say to people who bash an sr for being a banwagon or cheaper or jdm, but when it comes down to it there is alot less **** to go wrong on a stock \ slightly modified sr.

mr alchemist xl, 7psi on a ka-t is not 215whp properly tuned. (dont even put my car in this) and its only been about 8500 miles to date that ive had this piece of **** contraption strapped on my exhaust side of the engine.

please dont anyone try to do competitive pricing, you can get redtop clips for 2300 shipped. i could have them once in a while for 900. same for ka-t items, you can do list but everyone has different connections for getting their stuff.

for the record its really hard to compare how much power each engine will put out with x amount of mods, 0o0 torque monster ka-t, please you can build any engine to perform with particular performance charictoristics.

:\

lebbet who ever you thought was talking about 25 and 27 psi they were ment to say TO 5 psi and TO 7psi, ka crank and rods are forged factory, and there is little discussion about the way nissan manufactured the pistons as being considered forged also, but thats a loop hole or exploit to consider them as being forged pistons. Lets just leave that topic alone supposivly they suck.

ka's blow up becuase of the owner not keeping carefull watch on their setup, there will be shakedown issues and problems with the install, if they dont keep track of what is going on bad things can happen............... another ****ing thing, it seems as if someone buys a safc and a wideband gets a few base numbes for afr and timing they think they know how to tune, you are very very wrong. read a book. another note, i really have no idea how someone in 1 hour on a dyno can give your car the most power and fuel effeciency SAFELY.

greg, you can properly select a turbo to work with a high compression engine, it has its advantages and disadvantages, defintly do able and not a bad venue if you know what you are doing. its not orthodox to turbo a high compression engine because of the higher risk/avalibility for it to detonate, but it will yeild the closest if not better then NA power and responce.

this thread is frustrating, and is the reason why they are locked instantly on ka-t and sr specific forums (and even when compared to a rb in some places).


*edit*- turbo ka's suck, peice of ****.


What are you doing this weekend? :D
 

Kenrik

Driver
240SicknessX said:
sincerly i dont think any of your posts to this forum have been helpful or informative at all. second off are you ****ing kidding me? dood until you have done a ka-t install dont rag on why people get sr's there is so much **** that happens when you try to turbo a na engine. sr is a very nice option, genrally low miles, lower compression, turbo setup, a ecu tuned for boost from nissan. im really at a loss of words of what to say to people who bash an sr for being a banwagon or cheaper or jdm, but when it comes down to it there is alot less **** to go wrong on a stock \ slightly modified sr.

mr alchemist xl, 7psi on a ka-t is not 215whp properly tuned. (dont even put my car in this) and its only been about 8500 miles to date that ive had this piece of **** contraption strapped on my exhaust side of the engine.

please dont anyone try to do competitive pricing, you can get redtop clips for 2300 shipped. i could have them once in a while for 900. same for ka-t items, you can do list but everyone has different connections for getting their stuff.

for the record its really hard to compare how much power each engine will put out with x amount of mods, 0o0 torque monster ka-t, please you can build any engine to perform with particular performance charictoristics.

:\

lebbet who ever you thought was talking about 25 and 27 psi they were ment to say TO 5 psi and TO 7psi, ka crank and rods are forged factory, and there is little discussion about the way nissan manufactured the pistons as being considered forged also, but thats a loop hole or exploit to consider them as being forged pistons. Lets just leave that topic alone supposivly they suck.

ka's blow up becuase of the owner not keeping carefull watch on their setup, there will be shakedown issues and problems with the install, if they dont keep track of what is going on bad things can happen............... another ****ing thing, it seems as if someone buys a safc and a wideband gets a few base numbes for afr and timing they think they know how to tune, you are very very wrong. read a book. another note, i really have no idea how someone in 1 hour on a dyno can give your car the most power and fuel effeciency SAFELY.

greg, you can properly select a turbo to work with a high compression engine, it has its advantages and disadvantages, defintly do able and not a bad venue if you know what you are doing. its not orthodox to turbo a high compression engine because of the higher risk/avalibility for it to detonate, but it will yeild the closest if not better then NA power and responce.

this thread is frustrating, and is the reason why they are locked instantly on ka-t and sr specific forums (and even when compared to a rb in some places).


*edit*- turbo ka's suck, peice of ****.

This is why all of my planed mods on the new car are suspension, exhaust, LSD etc... I don't want to deal with turbo crap right now.
 
Last edited:
RICKY SILEIGHTY said:
Damn finally someone knows what they are talking about. When u really break it down the SR20DET is 4 "RICERS", SORRY RICERS!


I agree with rick, nothing you say is useful, your making yourself look like an ***
 
J

javi240sx

there is a KA24DE non turbo sl3 240sx doing 11.3 1/4 mile, if u dont believe me check out the video at www.KA-T.org....check under "240sx videos"....supposed to be fastest KA24DE in the U.S
 
javi240sx said:
there is a KA24DE non turbo sl3 240sx doing 11.3 1/4 mile, if u dont believe me check out the video at www.KA-T.org....check under "240sx videos"....supposed to be fastest KA24DE in the U.S
I believe u, the S13 only weigh's 2643-2800 pounds so it won't take 2 much 2 make run 11's. Some people just think that by throwing money at problem it will go away in my opinion that is what a SR20 is 4, if your 2 lazy 2 try and build the right engine at the end u r left behind . How could u think that a 2.0L is going 2 ever out power a 2.4L it make no sense "no replacement for displacement". Another thing I forgot 2 mention is that in Japan tunners r bumping the displacement on the under powered SR20 to get the torqe u get out of the box from the KA. Oh yeah and that stroker kit runs upwards of $5,000 minimum I rather stroke my 2.4L 2 a 2.6L and that kit costs $4,000 from Crower like I said build it right the first time. :D :rolleyes: :eek: P.S Alchemist no one is ragging on the SR, you claim that the SR is a bang 4 your buck engine, but how can you say that? The factory accesesory parts cost over $120 a peice, I agree u you can boost the SR higher then the KA on factory internals but no one can say they need more 250whp on the streets, and what do u think will happen if u take a KA and a SR and build them both but keep the displacement's as is don't u think that .4L's would make more power? I think thats why stroker kits are made 4 the "invinsible SR20DET". I also agree I havn't built a SR20 but i've driven one at 7psi and that 20 extra hp you get from the KA is really needed and the torqe don't get me started. Again I SAY NO ONE IS BAD MOUTHING THE SR20DET do u understand?

altezzagirl said:
LMFAO!!!! HAHAHAH! That engine cannot handle 25psi...much less 27psi. You need to replace the bottom end with one that would be able to handle that much psi....which means youd have to buy a forged one, in which the SR already comes with it (all boosted cars do). Replacing the bottom end would cost you a pretty penny (Im not entirely sure but Im estimating around $2,000) Thats including pistons, rods, and crank. Also, if you want to go on boost, it be recommended to use ARP head studs and rod bolts. So that will run you another $300. So which is the better bang for your buck?
And Your going to build your turbo yourself? With what? If you mean REbuild a turbo yourself then thats quite acceptable. But considering the fact that your putting out rediculous figures of how much power youd be pushing, I highly doubt youd be able to rebuild a turbo yourself.



How about lets really recap:

SR engine = $2,000
Installation = do it yourself
Upgrades = you dont need any, unless you want to upgrade for whatever purpose. You DONT NEED an upgraded fuel system, or clutch, or anything you said. You need all that for the KA if you want to try to keep up to an SR.

I dont know where you get this crap from, but its not from the books or researching. How about you listen to what people are telling you and do your research before you post!



Listen to yourself.
Who said 25psi? The post said boost 2 "space" 5psi a ding dong knows that u can't boost that engine that high without blowing it please read carfully. Another thing "u don't need 2 replace the fuel pump" well yeah u do cause the old one might not be up to the task of pumping even more gas since most likely it has over 100,000 miles on it 370cc injecters. The clutch is a maybe cause it could be in good shape but maybe the guy that had the engine in Japan beat on it really good and it might be ready 2 give out so why not replace it when u have the chance and it's easy. Some people in this forum can't afford 2 buy a engine install it, then have 2 take out the tranny a week later 2 replace the clutch. Also not everyone can install a engine without paying a specialist.
 
Last edited:

Kenrik

Driver
RICKY SILEIGHTY said:
I believe u, the S13 only weigh's 2643-2800 pounds so it won't take 2 much 2 make run 11's. Some people just think that by throwing money at problem it will go away in my opinion that is what a SR20 is 4, if your 2 lazy 2 try and build the right engine at the end u r left behind . How could u think that a 2.0L is going 2 ever out power a 2.4L it make no sense "no replacement for displacement". Another thing I forgot 2 mention is that in Japan tunners r bumping the displacement on the under powered SR20 to get the torqe u get out of the box from the KA. Oh yeah and that stroker kit runs upwards of $5,000 minimum I rather stroke my 2.4L 2 a 2.6L and that kit costs $4,000 from Crower like I said build it right the first time. :D :rolleyes: :eek: P.S Alchemist no one is ragging on the SR, you claim that the SR is a bang 4 your buck engine, but how can you say that? The factory accesesory parts cost over $120 a peice, I agree u you can boost the SR higher then the KA on factory internals but no one can say they need more 250whp on the streets, and what do u think will happen if u take a KA and a SR and build them both but keep the displacement's as is don't u think that .4L's would make more power? I think thats why stroker kits are made 4 the "invinsible SR20DET". I also agree I havn't built a SR20 but i've driven one at 7psi and that 20 extra hp you get from the KA is really needed and the torqe don't get me started. Again I SAY NO ONE IS BAD MOUTHING THE SR20DET do u understand?


Who said 25psi? The post said boost 2 "space" 5psi a ding dong knows that u can't boost that engine that high without blowing it please read carfully

Ricky... I feel that my IQ goes down 1 point for every word of your posts I read...

Brain cells are popping all around South Florida...
 

BLADDER_MASTER

is no more
RICKY SILEIGHTY said:
P.S Alchemist no one is ragging on the SR. Again I SAY NO ONE IS BAD MOUTHING THE SR20DET do u understand?

RICKY SILEIGHTY said:
Damn finally someone knows what they are talking about. When u really break it down the SR20DET is 4 "RICERS", SORRY RICERS!

Is this not "ragging" on the engine?

RICKY SILEIGHTY said:
How could u think that a 2.0L is going 2 ever out power a 2.4L

My 2.0L outpowers your 2.4L ;)

RICKY SILEIGHTY said:
but no one can say they need more 250whp on the streets

I bet you RB-powered 240SX's can. :D
 
Top Bottom