Best coilovers for under $1000?
- Thread starter Mannie111
- Start date
Living4surf
Driver
I'm in no way trying to say that it isn't wrong that that part broke but we are talking about coilovers not arms. Plus the z parts are pretty new to them so there are bound to be problems while they work out the bugs. Plus damn that arm must take a lot of abuse with the coilovers mounted to it. Imagine if Godspeed or someone made te lower arm for z's.
Yep, and most all of the coils listed in this thread except for the fortunes are linear damping and do not have easily accessible shock data so pretty much everything in this thread is based on seat of the pants feel but the the problem with that is what feels good to someone who doesn't know any better (and is just happy to not be on stock shit) feels like total ass to someone who has been there done that with crappy cheap coils (Megan/ksport/D2/etc.)
Now before you claim that I am some sort of FA butt boy know that I have a set of PBM Pro's in the mail for my Chaser. Now I am sorta wishing I had talked to FA about getting a set of 510's made for it.
http://zilvia.net/f/chat/352819-godspeed-new-toe-arms-vs-pbm.html
pbm = godspeed?
they are made in the same factory in Taiwan.
pbm = godspeed?
they are made in the same factory in Taiwan.
crayZwhiteboy
Spectator
Hey man,
FA 500 Series: $1,050
FA 510 Series: $1,399
Roller Bearing upgrade on either: $50
Shipping is included to the lower 48!
If you're interested in the Swift Spring upgrade, we will be offering that at $350.
Orders are fulfilled based on the order that they are paid so if you're interested, just let us know and we can get you set up!
Thanks!
I've heard a lot of recent stories of PBM stuff not being solid. I'm talking about people that actually put there cars to use. I would say to stick to SPL.
Ive heard bad things about godspeed. I agree with gsracer, quality for coilovers. Have have a set of hks hypermax , spring and dampner adjust. My buddy had some jics and teins. I could find you some over here pretty cheap plus shipping. Hed prob want a 100 for the teins 250 for the jics. Id sell the teins for 100. The fronts are pillow tops and spring adjust, idk if dampner. Just lmk what kind youd like. Ill hit the junkyards up or upgarage
crayZwhiteboy
Spectator
That had absolutely no positive input into this thread.
And you picked two brands that are about as far apart on the spectrum that you could get.
anyone have any experience with or input about stance Pro Comps (XR's)? They come with swift springs (even though i'm not really sure why everyone says they're the best springs) and i've read good things about them. I'm still a bit confused as to what all this valving stuff means. Is there a coilovers for dummies thread somewhere?
I proved that shit 3 pages ago. Glad I'm not the only literate bro here.
Sketchy564
Driver
i have D2's and they are fine for what i use them for. I daily drive the car, slide occasionally, and have taken it to countyline twice... in other words, i dont do anything serious with the car. I'm fully aware that nicer coilovers will perform a lot better, and depending on the model, ride smoother... but the way i look at it is i only spent $500 used for them, and they are a lot better than stock suspension.
I don't do any competitions, road racing, or any serious motorsports yet, nor is my car making any real amount of power... so for me, theres no need for my broke ass to spend money i don't have for top of the line coilovers. I always have the option to spend $1,500 and get REAL coilovers later down the road when my car and I are more serious.
Im pretty sure the spring rates are 9/7, 36 way adjustable. With the dampening around 60% up front and 75% rear, they aren't too stiff where the ride sucks, and they arent too soft where i get a ton of body roll either. They still allow the car to squat just a little, which i like
I would say if you have money and you plan on being serious with your car, don't waste your money on entry level coilovers. Spend a a few hundred extra and get quality stuff the first time (R.Y.O., silk road, fortune auto, stance, etc.), and it will be worth the money for sure. But if you just want to lower the car and get it stiffer, handle and/or slide better, you'll be fine with some decent cheap entry level coilovers like megan or D2. Though i wouldnt say go with the cheapest shit possible like godspeed, or some ebay brand, get something in between or find something decent used.
remember, you always have the option to sell your coils and get new ones later.... its not like you're stuck with them for life
I don't do any competitions, road racing, or any serious motorsports yet, nor is my car making any real amount of power... so for me, theres no need for my broke ass to spend money i don't have for top of the line coilovers. I always have the option to spend $1,500 and get REAL coilovers later down the road when my car and I are more serious.
Im pretty sure the spring rates are 9/7, 36 way adjustable. With the dampening around 60% up front and 75% rear, they aren't too stiff where the ride sucks, and they arent too soft where i get a ton of body roll either. They still allow the car to squat just a little, which i like
I would say if you have money and you plan on being serious with your car, don't waste your money on entry level coilovers. Spend a a few hundred extra and get quality stuff the first time (R.Y.O., silk road, fortune auto, stance, etc.), and it will be worth the money for sure. But if you just want to lower the car and get it stiffer, handle and/or slide better, you'll be fine with some decent cheap entry level coilovers like megan or D2. Though i wouldnt say go with the cheapest shit possible like godspeed, or some ebay brand, get something in between or find something decent used.
remember, you always have the option to sell your coils and get new ones later.... its not like you're stuck with them for life
Living4surf
Driver
No actual experience with them but they should be pretty good for anything you need them for
i have stance gr plus used for sale 800 OBO
The reason why swifts are desireable is that they are made of a different material than normal chrome steel springs that is stronger and more resiliant. Since they are stronger they can use less coils and thinner wire. This makes them lighter and have more travel before they bind on themselves. Also testing supposedly shows that they are more linear than normal springs. All springs are rated by an Average spring rate over a certain distance since as a spring compresses even "Linear" Rate springs get slightly stiffer as they compress. Swift claims their springs are very close to the rated spring rate though 80% of the springs travel.
I do have experience with swifts as I swapped out the Eibach coilover springs on my Koni setup on my E36 and I noticed a pretty big difference in feel with the swifts. They were stiffer rates but the car was smoother over bumps. Its hard to describe but the car did feel better around town and on the track. It amazing how much of a difference they made.
What we are talking about with valving the shocks inner workings. What makes it do what it does. The shock itself is the single biggest part of what makes coilovers different fromt each other. Not the color or the name brand or what other little features they have. The Shocks main job is to control motion of the chassis. It is there to resist roll pitch dive and squat. Its also there to control chassis movement when you hit a bump. Remember the suspensions job is to maximize traction by keeping the tire in constant contact with the road.
The way the shock does this is controling fluid flow through a set of valves on the piston inside the shock. There are different designs but the most common one is a set of stacked shims with a preload spring. These have small openings to allow fluid flow through them and the size of the openings determin the stiffness of the shock (resistance to flow). The adjustment on the majority of cheap coilovers tightens and loosens this shim stack. This is not a very precise way to do it and if not done properly can result in a damper that shows little to no change when adjusted. High end coilovers (Moton, KW, JRZ, Ohlins) Use a needle style adjustment valve with spring preloaded valve reliefs. Very complex stuff and is the main reason why they cost so much more (2-8K for a set).
Point being the biggest difference between $500 godspeeds and $5,000 Motons is the valving. The Materials are better on the motons but thats not what you are paying for.
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