Battery Relocation

Phil @ Aero K

AK's V.P.
Driver
Kenrik said:
On the SOHC the IACV is on the very back of the top part of the ECCS, I really don't know where it is on the DOHC but it's somewhere on the intake and it has two wires hooked upto it.

o ok i got it, but now i have another problem ive noticed, my headlights are foglights and are hotwired and theres a ground that goes from one light to teh battery and i had to extend that wire to the back for my lights to work, but when i connect it to the negetive side just like how it was it doesnt work, but hten when i hit it with the positive the lights work but they are really dim and i cant drive at night. Would that be caused because the wire that extends it isnt strong enough to carry teh current or what?

The Redline 03 said:
Man I missed a lot being away for a week. Took me forever to read this whole thread. Yeah man nice job on your setup. Lets not have another problem like before lol. You should also find something to tie the battery down with, you can also go with a smaller, lighter battery like I told you when you came over that one time. I gotta get my car up and running again so I could chill with you guys. Oh yeah call me up on a "rainy day." :D

yea man definetly, ill probably be calling you soon to see whats up and stop by cuz i have to fix my lights, read the post i left kenrik just now
 

Kenrik

Driver
if it's a ground then it does not have to go to the battery... it just needs to be... well grounded
 

Phil @ Aero K

AK's V.P.
Driver
Kenrik said:
if it's a ground then it does not have to go to the battery... it just needs to be... well grounded

well before i did all this it was connected directly to the negitive terminal and it workd fine, and now when i do it extended the lights are dim
 

Kenrik

Driver
ONE80ESSEX said:
well before i did all this it was connected directly to the negitive terminal and it workd fine, and now when i do it extended the lights are dim

Try grounding it to where your whole car used to be grounded on the engine block.

I bet it will work just fine then :D
 
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Well i,m running the 94 twin cam ecu, but i don't think that it's the ecu, today when i went 2 adjust my idle i dicoverd that the throttle pully was damaged and would not loosen up enough 2 get the car 2 idle right, so i'll be going 2 U-pick 2morrow 2 get a new one.
 

side.way.suan

MYCU|SWAY|DRKCLD|DRFTATRE
Driver
oh geez....

Well this is a great mod that I want to consider doing. So Phil did you just chop the stock intake pipe?
 

Phil @ Aero K

AK's V.P.
Driver
suaknee said:
oh geez....

Well this is a great mod that I want to consider doing. So Phil did you just chop the stock intake pipe?

yup, i chopped up the ebay intake i had on there but it wouldnt fit right so i went back to stock and cut that up
 

z4k

Super Mod
Driver
Kenrik said:
Well it's not made for automotive, But electric wire is electric wire if it's the same guage/strand thickness, the guy was just an idiot.


The stuff that MOST Lowes, Home Depot and such type stores carries is thick copper strand. Which make is very brittle. A lot of movement, shaking, vibration and it will break inside with out you knowing it. That is why Stereo wire is better. Thinner, a ton less brittle.



ONE80ESSEX said:
o ok i got it, but now i have another problem ive noticed, my headlights are foglights and are hotwired and theres a ground that goes from one light to teh battery and i had to extend that wire to the back for my lights to work, but when i connect it to the negetive side just like how it was it doesnt work, but hten when i hit it with the positive the lights work but they are really dim and i cant drive at night. Would that be caused because the wire that extends it isnt strong enough to carry teh current or what?


Right behind the head lights on the motor side of the Radiator support on eithere side of the Radiator is a 10mm bolt with a gang of grounds from the factory. Go ahead and use that for your head lights. When you run it front to back the thin gause wire puts up a lt of resistance thus making the lights DIM.

Also your idle problem. Do you still have the BLOCK grounded with the Factory 4 gauge wire? If not DO IT! ASAP!


ALSO IMPORTANT!​

YOU NEED TO RUN A FUSE 120amp or a CIRCUIT BREAKER(from any stereo shop) About 6-12 Inches from your Positive terminal. I usually run it out of the box bolt the Circuit Breaker to the box and then good to go and easy to get to. If you dont and the wire gets a break in the outter coating you will need a fire man! There will be nothing to stop the flow of electricity.

Another thing check with the rules on batteries in the rear. Most Racing Bodies REQUIRE an ON/OFF switch located on the rear of the car. Moroso is one of these people who WILL NOT LET YOU RUN OR PARTICIPATE if you do not have this. Look into it.
 

Phil @ Aero K

AK's V.P.
Driver
heres the finished product pic

car046.jpg
 

Phil @ Aero K

AK's V.P.
Driver
yea, it pretty much fixed itself, but of course, now i have an even bigger problem that just happend about 10 mins ago...check my "of course, something has to go wrong" post
 
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