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26mm can clear certain se's there is a thread or post on zilvia or fresh alloy about it.

And then the car will never reach proper temp and be stuck in warm up and dump fuel and run like crap. Get a aftermarket water temp gauge if you are concerned with the water temp, as I said in my above post it is not accurate and will only let you know when your about to have a melt down.

It will read halfway when normal 185 degrees and at 225 degrees.

Clutch and pressure plate new?

If IGN timing is good mechanical timing (base timing) is good also, they work together. unless your car was tuned with the mechanical timing (base timing) Set wrong say at 17 degrees instead of 15 degrees.

Gap is to close open it up to at least .025.

+1 That is what is most likely making the popping noise you hear, If you have a wideband you will see the afr won't steady out at idle. I had a problem with the nuts backing of the exhaust studs that hold the manifold to the head and it would cause symptoms like what you describe.

Koyo, Griffin, C&R.

What about labor and repair of engine do to bad weld jobs on radiator?

Here is the corner weights for my s13 base coupe with a sr20 redtop, full interior, with the common upgrades. waiting to get down to close to a empty tank to weigh again. LF 756 RF 755 LR 596 RR 608 2712 total Full tank of gas, and nothing in car (meaning cds, coffee cup, books, etc....) LF...

Mishimoto FTL, Have seen 3 come through now were the fill/radiator cap part welds were shit and leaked caused 1 car to overheat and blow a head gasket.

The replacement ka may be in bad shape as well never know.

I seen the name on the bottom and said to myself this could get interesting, lol.

Maybe the cheapest route, Have to check the head and block to see if they are warped. If block is good and no other issues fix the head and ride again, and find what caused the overheating.

The truth. Isn't most of the more successful drifters on this site running stock turbo SR's? It has been along time since I have been to a event but it seemed like that was the case.

1jz for 6 cylinder motor noobz lol, at least you can get parts easier and will last along while. Sr is the easiest and cheapest way to go. There will be 10 people to buy what ever you sell for your sr20, and maybe 1 person to buy your rb stuff.

Good list, You putting in the motor yourself? Change the thermostat while doing the water pump. What radiator are you using?

There is no need to build the motor for 300hp, If you want to run it around 400hp then I would look into upgrading the motor. Get a bigger turbo, some 550's and a retune and have fun.

What motor is this, and have you decided on what turbo? When you say "engine upgrade" do you mean change to a different motor, build the one you have, or upgrade parts? Baseline intercooler? stock? Just trying to get a better understanding so I can give my opinion on upgrades.

Walbro is fine, will need some 550cc injectors though. What exhaust is on the car now?