sr a bitch to start when warm

do a compression test and come back with some numbers dude.

In the mean time, like Bill said; it's mostly related to fuel issues.

What fuel pump are you using?

Did you wire it up correctly?

What fuel do you use?

Replaced fuel filter?

Check for split/loose Couplers

And how exactly does it feel when you start the motor COLD?

And I don't understand why Chris Jackson asked you how many miles it has because

A) That doesn't mean shit

B) How would you know (it's an SR)

C) Who ever told you it had 80k lied to you.

Get back at me.
 
Last edited:
walboro 255 and yea i just cut the ground and positive and connnected them so i guess its right. i hope to god it doesnt have bad compression

---------- Post added at 06:54 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:53 AM ----------

can i still beat on it sometimes? its my dd i dont want it getting worse.
 
i would check if u have a leaky injector o-ring..
pull off rail and turn on ign..dont start...
and see if it sprays clean or poops out fuel...
make sure oil pan is flat on bottom also..
the oilcatch is there on bottom..
 
Also how is your idle in general on the car? If the IAC is going bad it might be staying in the cold start position once your engine is warm which also would give a hard start. Or if the temp sensor telling your ECU the engine temp is off then your ECU could be staying in cold start conditions which is another reason for hard warm starts. I also agree with infected that it could be a leaky injector flooding one cylinder but then it would probably happen more than just on warm starts.
 
Also how is your idle in general on the car? If the IAC is going bad it might be staying in the cold start position once your engine is warm which also would give a hard start. Or if the temp sensor telling your ECU the engine temp is off then your ECU could be staying in cold start conditions which is another reason for hard warm starts. I also agree with infected that it could be a leaky injector flooding one cylinder but then it would probably happen more than just on warm starts.

my temp gauge doesnt work. so maybe that has to do with it.
and the idle is good at 700 actuall perfect, just if i let the rpms drop it sometimes just dies out, almost ever time it goes under 500 i gotta give it a little gas and make it as smooth as possible to idle
 
Last edited:
iacv cicuit has low voltage and if temp gauge dun werk inside its the small temp sensor..the larger one is for the ecu
 
all the cicuits should have 12.8v or above...
i just rewired my ecu etc and it all gets 13.20v
and it runs mad healthy
 
The idle problem is because you have an open bov. If you recirculate it then when you let off it will drop straight to 700. But now your losing all that air so it drops lower and can bog out and die......nothing to do with warm starting tho
 
my temp gauge doesnt work. so maybe that has to do with it.
and the idle is good at 700 actuall perfect, just if i let the rpms drop it sometimes just dies out, almost ever time it goes under 500 i gotta give it a little gas and make it as smooth as possible to idle

Yea, all you gotta do is run a test on em to make sure there working properly. I think there's a couple tech books for the SR20 floating around the net that tell you how to check either one.

If your ECU isn't getting signal from the temp sender or if the sender isn't working then that can confuse it on restarts. If I remember right it will go out of choke after running for a bit, but when you restart when hot it thinks the car is cold and throws the engine back into choke which ends up working the opposite way on a hot engine.
 
talk to PRS BIG BOSS. I have the same probelm with mine but im told its feul related
 
is it still giving off lots of white smoke?
told u how to test the temp gauge, stop wastin time

no more smoke, and you did? ima just see if powers going go the sensor

---------- Post added at 03:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:11 PM ----------

Yea, all you gotta do is run a test on em to make sure there working properly. I think there's a couple tech books for the SR20 floating around the net that tell you how to check either one.

If your ECU isn't getting signal from the temp sender or if the sender isn't working then that can confuse it on restarts. If I remember right it will go out of choke after running for a bit, but when you restart when hot it thinks the car is cold and throws the engine back into choke which ends up working the opposite way on a hot engine.

url plz?
 
ok.
Didnt read any of this.

As you may, or may not know, Flooring it will cut fuel. You might possibly have an injector problem. All the fuel is just flooding the bitch out.
This is what my car did, then it washed my rings and ruined my motor.
 
^^exactly, check the injectors.. o-rings, stuck open injectors.
 
thanks for putting me on the spot to find those since I've had mine downloaded for a while lol. Lucky for you I had free time at work. this is the link [ame="http://www.megaupload.com/?d=GPQ8PZ1C"]MEGAUPLOAD - The leading online storage and file delivery service@@AMEPARAM@@Filename:</font> <font style="font-family:arial; color:#FF6700; font-size:22px; font-weight:bold;">180SX.rar@@AMEPARAM@@180SX.rar[/ame] that's the link to the 180sx FSM with a CA18 in it but if I remember right they use the same IAC or A.A.C. valve as they call it. if you download that file it's page 219 in the PDF that the info on how to check the valve starts. I'm not sure if there's a english guide for the S13 SR20 but I'll see if I find one and I'll find you the link to the S14 which is mostly the same later since I have to get back to work. Also the test for the temp sensor is probably in there somewhere.
 
yea remember i told you what to do to check it lol.

just ground the 1 wire that's for temp guage. When you ground it PROPERLY and turn the hey is on ON position, you should see your temp gauge rise pretty quickly. If it does then you know your sender is bad (replace it), if it doesn't then something is wrong with the wiring or ecu

Check your injectors too. I did this test and it works really well.
http://build1.net/wp_files/proj240sx-fix-poor-no-start/

go down where it says Fuel Construction Test & here's the video of what he is doing if your just too lazy to read
.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Back
Top Bottom