im curious to know what normal afr should be on an s14 sr20. my afr right now as they stand are about 12.0-12.5 at idle an about 12.5 at wot. it seems to be good but not sure. my friend that has some experiance tunning cars is gonna be tunning it this week an i wanna know what the afrs shouldd be.
air/fuel ratio
- Thread starter sr20zenki
- Start date
i say you should not be giving advice like this
BILLFISHER21
Driver
from 4,000 and up on turbo cars afrs should 12 or below most power will be made right around 12-12.3 but its on the border on safety i want my tune around 11.6-11.9 in boost
number, now thats what i like to see lol.
ok, so would 12.5 be to high for wot
an what should crusing an idle be?
i didnt specify any numbers so im not in the wrong. i dont see the need for idle to be any richer than at WOT hence my statement that idle is lean and wot is rich, relatively. it was to point out that there is something wrong when his idle is the same or richer that his WOT.
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lol its cool, any advise is better then non. ok so ima have to recheck my idle afr's can i get a number about were the should be?
lol, imma just throw this out there then. umm higher than 14 ahah.a good highway cruise is like 15-16 afr from what i've seen else where.
yea dats right, ya hear dat dr. doomz
nig-gah said its okz.
yea dats right, ya hear dat dr. doomz
nig-gah said its okz.
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FIRST OF ALL: What are you using to determine your AFR?
14.7:1 is Stoichiometric
WOT is ok 12 - 13, but you really want to be on a Dyno with a Wide Band to tune.
Idle can be a bit higher with out ill effect.
Truth
This is NOT true. Most power will be made closer to 14.7:1. But it is NOT SAFE to run like that due to many other variables. Temp, Humidity, Elevation, Etc.
Yes you are in the wrong. Don't post if you don't know.
This is also NOT true. No advice is better the BAD advice.
Do you have a Data Logger? Again what are you using to read your AFR??
stoic is at 14.7 in a homogeneous mixture, in real life it is heterogeneous that is why max power is not made at 14.7.
as i said, it was to point out that his idle should not be at or below WOT and you disagree with this? and it was from a relative view point between idle and wot not absolute.
its not bad advice when it was too vague to do anything with it.
yea good question.
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typeXblacktop
Member
lol :bigthumbu thats sounds good. lol.
im not looking to be spot on, i just wanna compared what i have to what it should be so it can be adjusted
seriously? how does disagreeing with EVERYONE in one post deserve an applause?
typeXblacktop
Member
d00d just admit it, u got :0wned:
lol im not hiding anything. i stand by what i've said thus far. ohh ok i see because he came in typing like he was the absolute authority of whats right and wrong you've got it in your head that he must be right. is he part of the authority of this board, absolutely. is every disagreement he has the be all and end all of the discussion? i should think not.
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i've got NIStune on my SR (which, for those of you who don't know is a real time tuning software that basicaly turns your stock ECU into a full standalone, with all capabilities of the AEM, GReddy, Haltech standalone units.. although it DOES NOT support MAP sensors like stated stand alone units), and i've created my own "base tune" i got my WOT and load AFR's on point by myself...
then, i had my car dyno tuned by Martin @ Z Fever, discussed at length with him AFRs and such.....
i've also taken advice on how to tune the NIStune from TWO of the cofounder/owners of RS Enthalpy...
now that my "credentials" are out of the way here's your target AFRs...
WOT/full boost = 12.0 safest, most reliable
cruising/under load (high way driving, cruising at speed) = 14.7
my tune sits right at those numbers, idle AFR isn't near as important, but with as long as your tune is solid, you shouldn't have to worry about it, although 12.5 is rich as fuck at idle, and is a waste of gas... my car idles around 15.5-17.0 AFR depending on engine/ext temp and humidity, although under load, it's at 14.7, and WOT/max boost, it's dead nutz at 12.0
oh, and whoever has a AEM UEGO, get rid of that piece of shit and get AT LEAST an innovate LC-1 with the DB gauge... if you feel the need to step it up, get the XD-16 controller for the LC-1 unit, bare minimum....
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O-zone
Spectator
i was thinking about this recently. i believe ill be going this route along with the nistune. good to know its a decent product