for that price you might as well do a full roll cage. way more rigid.
or you can do both like me, depending on the conditions of your car, and what you wanted id do it for a fee.
^you mean as in the roll cage vs chassis welding stiffness. i'd venture to say yes, it is more rigid. as far as torsional rigidity is concerned it completely freezes up the section between the wheels, even better would be if it was connected to the strut towers.4 sure?
i did this to my car, what is it that you want? Stitch welding?
I dont know a shop that will do this for you locally but i can tell you it wont be cheap. It is very time consuming and a pain because of the glue in the seams, you have to remove 80 percent of the glue to get it right.
Word of advice though, you dont want to do this to the whole car, ideally you study the stress points in the chassis and weld those, especially the whole front end and shock towers.
yes it would be cheaper, but do not i repeat do NOT weld a continous bead across the whole seam. The whole idea behind this is a 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch weld every 1.5 inches or so.
If your doing this just because you removed the glue dont, by your self a high quality can of self etching primer and prime it liberally and paint over it, then undercoat the bottom of the car. IT WILL NOT rust, if thats what your worried about. I removed virtually every last ounce of glue and tar in that car, and if you paint it decently it wont rust, my car has not one ounce of rust.
And while home depot may rent you the machine (i doubt it) they wont have gas and you will have to weld with flux core, which is just garbage and will not work well at all on thin nissan sheet metal.
Nothing will happen if you run without the glue, besides you just removed the portion of the glue that squeezes out of the seam when the panel is pressed together. The important part is still on the seam which can be removed lol unless you split the panels apart and remove it haha.