Proper Engine Break in? My new Build - Need Help!

BiG MiKE

BiG MiKE

Driver
Hows it goin Folks! Im trying to get some info on engine break in and the initial start up of my engine.. Im in the process of gettin the block built and the head is already done.. If you guys can think of anything I missed plz lemme kno THANKS!

Specs:

SR20DET (Redtop) Head
BC STD Valves (In/Ex)
BC Springs
BC Ti Retainers
OEM Rocker Arms
OEM Valve Seals
Tomei Poncams 256/256
Tomei Rocker Arm Stoppers
OEM Timing Chain Kit
Stock Cam Gears
Stock Lifters

SR20DET (Redtop) Block
CP Pistons 86.5mm - 9.0:1 Compression
Eagle Chromoly Rods
ARP Main Studs
OEM Oil Pump
OEM Oil Strainer/Pickup
OEM Waterpump
OEM Front/Rear Main Seals
Nismo Thermostat
Stock Crank Pulley
Greddy Alt, Ps, and Waterpump Pulleys
Greddy Oil Pan

Other Stuff/Tuning/Monitorz
APEX-i Power FC L-Jetro
AEM Wideband
Defi Boost Guage
Tomei Expreme Manifold
Buddy Clup Spec II Exhaust
GT2871r .64a/r
Greddy Type RS BOV (not recirculated)
Tomei 740cc Injectors
Nismo FPR
300zx MAFS
 
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well what about first doing a Dyno ..then take it to some tunning... then run it easy for 1,000 miles then change the oil and check the the quantity of metals that comes tru the oil .. check the lines , and then run dyno again and let it roar!!
 
500 miles on the motor take it easy.. change the oil make sure everything is ok.. EV the power fc comes with a base map from factory soo he should be fine.
 
Oh ChET 240 said:
does j00 has a base map to start with?
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No Idea - I Hasnt really done research on what comes with the pfc... :(
Locko said:
well what about first doing a Dyno ..then take it to some tunning... then run it easy for 1,000 miles then change the oil and check the the quantity of metals that comes tru the oil .. check the lines , and then run dyno again and let it roar!!
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Dyno WHat?! LoL... I dont think my freshly built motor wants to see the dyno without break in... or does it...
BoostedKouki said:
500 miles on the motor take it easy.. change the oil make sure everything is ok.. EV the power fc comes with a base map from factory soo he should be fine.
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How can I check what is on my PFC? Hook me up with that software sucia - hit me up

shappa said:
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
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That is an interesting article... Any other ones to back up what he's sayin?
 
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I always break my motors in under boost or
load. Seats the rings better in my opinion.
If the motor was built correctly it wont
hurt to flog it right away.
 
BoostedKouki said:
500 miles on the motor take it easy.. change the oil make sure everything is ok.. EV the power fc comes with a base map from factory soo he should be fine.
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Woah pfc base maps are crap!

Mike, haven't I shown you the pfc map download site like 100x? You're running a MAF so any somewhat similar, properly tuned setup should get you going as a really good base!
 
lol man you are probably more confused that when you started lol ...so many answers... is like asking whats the best sex position... obviously the chair! lol
 
^haha. Maybe since I'm a product of early 2 Live Crew, I'm a fan of puttin her "in the buck."

Here's the site in case you forgot: http://home.comcast.net/~nzo/ If anything, start with the Enthalpy base map. My final tune was based off this map. Its surprisingly good and will definitely get you on the road.
 
alx954 said:
I always break my motors in under boost or
load. Seats the rings better in my opinion.
If the motor was built correctly it wont
hurt to flog it right away.
Click to expand...

and then you wonder why ka's kaboom! :laugh:

i kid...but plelase explain your theory?

cus i have only heard of treating it nice for 1500 miles and flooring it all the way through (taking it through all the gears) once or so ever 500 miles...
 
actually the best as with bikes and any other engine is to get a looong trip ...where the engine is going to be under constant driving conditions...and after 1000 or 500(i think is too little) change oil inspect oil pan and oil itself, check lubrication and tune...
 
just drive to jacksonville one morning and back then change your oil and go back over all your bolts make sure everythings tight. If you keep it around 65 you should get a good solid breakin. As soon as i get my driveshaft im doing the same thing. It worked great last time i did it.
 
So when can I finally drive it ;)? It's good to see coming back man, I haven't talked to you in awhile. I hope all is well :).

To stay on topic. . .I never had the luck to rebuild an engine and break it in. I hope my fellow Never Lift member with a new swap checks this page out for some good info.
 
The Redline 03 said:
So when can I finally drive it ;)? It's good to see coming back man, I haven't talked to you in awhile. I hope all is well :).

To stay on topic. . .I never had the luck to rebuild an engine and break it in. I hope my fellow Never Lift member with a new swap checks this page out for some good info.
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I owe u a ride man! Ull be on the top of the list to drive it

Tonymac said:
Woah pfc base maps are crap!

Mike, haven't I shown you the pfc map download site like 100x? You're running a MAF so any somewhat similar, properly tuned setup should get you going as a really good base!
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I losteded the links! I got ur link for the last post now I just gotta figure out what im lookin at! :) but still leaves the question - should i be doing WOT runs the first 20miles like that article sayz or the 1000mi crap?
 
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i personaly think you should take it easy for the first 500 miles. A highway cruise is the best way to break it in. If you run wide open without breaking it in you can do some serious damage to your motor. on your home stretch you can push it a little but i say take it easy till you see how the motor is running and make sure theres no metal in your oil.
 
ok, you need to get a decent base map and use that to drive around for about 500 miles before you do any kind of tuning or "spirited driving."

once you do that, your best bet is to street tune (and if the power fc doesn't come w/a wideband, get one plz), and then take it to the dyno for minor/fine tweaks and #'s.
 
wowowowowowowowowwow Look at all this information and reasoning to backup their position.


According to my Crower camshaft information that I received with my cams, they suggest that the camshaft is run at 2200 rpm for 20 mins after directly applying their camshaft break in lubricant over all the lobes just prior to starting the engine. The cam shafts are cast steel. Cast steel is brittle and porous. The break in lubricant has high levels of zinc in it to ease initial friction in between the porous cam lobe and polished smooth valve train components. They tell you to run the engine at a constant 2200 rpm so there is enough load on the camshaft to bucket (in my case, ka24de) to smooth out any irregularities and not to over stress the contact area inbetween the camshaft and the valve train assembly. Over stressing the cam to bucket contact area before the surface irregularities are smoothed will only cause additional wear to the valve train and cam lobe during break in.

The next most important item that needs consideration are your piston rings. Depending on what kind of rings you are using will dictate what kind of break in procedure you should follow. Cast vs Chrome Rings. Cast rings will wear to irregular bores and provide the best cylinder sealing if you are doing a factory rebuild or replacing a single piston. Because these rings will seal to imperfect bores they take more operational hours before they have totally seated. Chrome piston rings are a common option for after market performance pistons and a choice for racers seeking power. The ring its self is made of special alloys that the piston manufacturer believes are best for their application with the outer edge of the ring being chrome. Chroming the outer edge of the ring makes the outer edge very hard and wear resistant. Chrome rings do not wear, thus the block being used must receive a machine bore and hone to ensure perfectly strait cylinder walls. Cast iron rings follow the suggested break in period of "500 Miles". Chrome rings on the other hand have a moly coating to wear off in which happens in about 50 miles of city driving.

The engine bearings should not contact each other, therefor are not part of my break in procedure. If you follow the above suggestions for the camshaft and piston ring recommendations the engine bearings will have hours on them.

I do believe that the piston rings need cylinder pressure to press them towards the bored cylinder walls to wear on the fresh hone. The reason why the cylinders are honed is to provide a friction area that will finger print the rings to the cylinder. I do not think idling an engine in a garage for hours or driving on the highway is the best way to seal the piston rings, they simply do not load the rings enough. Forced induction engines for the first couple miles ill keep the engine under 3000 rpm loading it with atmospheric manifold pressure varying the engine speed. After 15 miles change the oil and start to load the engine up to 4000 rpm with a few pounds of boost constantly varying the engine speed going through the gears. Continue this if you are using cast rings for 100 miles or so, if you are using chrome rings continue making more boost 8-10 psi and rev the engine out to 5000 or so for the next 15-20 miles. Change the oil. Restart the engine, let it warm up to operating temperature then do a compression test to verify that all cylinder are of equal and sufficient operating pressure. Once you have found that your engine is making its specified static compression you can call your rings seated.

When starting a fresh engine on a standalone engine management system it is extremely important to have an experienced tuner on hand or a good base map to start from. If the engine dose not run correctly you will not be able to hold a steady rpm to break in the cams or to load the rings sufficiently. During your time of running the engine through its break in period in which you add boost you need to ensure that your spark advance is conservative and that your air fuel ratio is acceptable. Mike it would be best if you found another PFC map that was tuned with your CR and something close to your turbo, which is a common setup for sr20's. You should be able to find a map no problem.

Oil changes with an EXCELLENT Filter. I will use non synthetic SAE 30 weight oil to break in the engine. I will change it after I have broke in the cam shafts, 20 mins at 2200. I will also change it again after I have run the engine 50 miles to seat my chrome rings. After the rings have seated I will switch to a high quality synthetic engine oil and continue tuning at wide open throttle and higher boost levels.

Read a book.
 
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