dori dori said:
...try to give friendly advice and get lectured.
#1. OK, you never mentioned you can get free turbo's, manifolds, ect...the way you wrote made you sound like your typical supra tard who, after his first 3 weeks of being a member of some supra club, set out to try to build the ultimate wangan rAcEcAr. Your fault not mine. Besides, if you're changing your cams and getting a Ferrea valve train alongside some cams gears, you can't forget the headwork (machine shop fees), metal head gasket, and head bolts (studs)...unless those are free too. Also, AEM EMS's don't just tune themselves...unless you get that for free. You're gonna want to monitor boost, a/f (with a wideband), and oil pressure at the very least...I bet your gauges are free too though. Didn't you already say that you'd have to pay for these things to be installed though...somewhere around $1500. Hmm, I'm no mathematician, but I think $4k left the building a while ago. Jeeze, dare I ask how you're getting thousands of dollars worth of parts for free?
First of all, I wasnt lecturing you, I was enlightening you on certain factors. The internet tends to radiate a bad connotation from paragraphs/explanations/rebuttles. Anyway, no Im not some Supra tard whos blindly going into building a racecar. Ive had my plans for a loooong time. Just with the IS. Now with the Supra, Ill obviously be deducting the 2jzgte bottom end, head, coil packs, and intake manifold from my plans.
Anyway, about the headwork, Im paying for half of the installation of that, in which I am friends and do business with Jamasco.They give me big discounts on anything. I already was quoted $100 to tune the AEM EMS. And I know your wondering how I get this for free, right? My father owns M.I.C Turbo = biological sponsorship.
As for my gauges, I work at Lexus, which means I get TRD gauges at cost (through our Toyota sister dealership). So they turn out to be dirt cheap.
dori dori said:
#2. 250lbs IS a lot. If all you care about is power to weight, then I guess it doesn't matter. See, I live in a world where braking and turning are as important to me as accelerating. Different strokes for different folks I guess. If I were to build a wangan car, I’d do a boosted Vette anyway.
Didnt I just say that my car will be set up for wangan?
dori dori said:
#3. I'm curious how a LS1 ruins an FD...is it reliability? See I thought that made a car better...not worse. Torque maybe? Hahah, j/k.
An LS1 ruins an FD in the sense of it being outside the make. Im the type of person that likes to stay within the make. Yes, its a powerful swap. The weight distribution is pretty ****ty, but nonetheless its fast as ****. A 20b weighs roughly 315 lbs vs. and LS1 that weighs roughly 420 lbs. Ah but 105 lbs to you is alot isnt it?
In any case a 20b its a helluva lot sexier than an LS1.
dori dori said:
LS1's are better than any 13b, period.
OPINION. And its not a 13b, its a 13brew....big difference. I know quite a few people who would refute that also.
dori dori said:
LS1's are better than any 13b, period. 3 rotor swaps ruin the dynamics of an FD far more than an LS1 ever would.
Really? How so?
And again, OPINION
dori dori said:
Then again, you seem to only be interested in wangan.
Isnt that one of the main fibers of the topic anyway? My car is being set up for wangan!
And no, Im not only interested in wangan. And if I was, why would it matter? We all have our own interests and ideas, dont we?
dori dori said:
Oh and please, for the love of god, DO NOT try to convince me that a boosted rotary can be made reliable. As much as I love hearing that, i get a headache every time.
I wasnt even going to. Dont care enough, and Ill let one of the rotary guys refute that if they wish.
Im not trying to argue with you. Im trying to enlighten you on a different point of view.
