Transmission expert needed! question inside!

Ashram

Member
Driving to work i hit a slight bump in road. was very slight. I get to the intersection, and i'm making a left into oncoming traffic when i when tried to downshift into second. clutch grind-ed and would not let me in. so i tried first, third, forth, nothing, all gears grinded and it would not shift into anything.

so i'm in the intersection going wtf am i going to do, and i realize my foot is all the way down on the clutch yet my car is rolling so i turned it off quick. i noticed then i could shift into gear no problem. so i slapped it in first turned the car on and noticed that the car was rolling as i'm cranking and it's as if even though im in neutral and clutch all the way down that it's still making contact and moving. so i get through the intersection in first and i go to shift into second and it's sticking pretty hard. i give it some muscle and pull it out of gear and the same situation happened in which i couldn't shift it into any gear.

ok. what i do know. car rolls in any gear when i start it even though clutch is fully pressed down ( EVEN neutral!!!) . it will stall in 3rd 4th and 5th because of high resistance.and once in gear i could not shift when the car was on, and at all times the car would be rolling. if i was in second and held the brake while my foot was on the clutch causing the car NOT to move it would stall.

SO i drop the transmission. i notice first that there is no lube on the splines or the sleeve where the throw out bearing is fitted into. (not the bearing itself but the spline that sticks out of the transmission has no lube) i used anti seize on my clutch change not to long ago and apparently it all burned off. i took off the clutch and inspected everything. the flywheel has a burn mark on one side VERY hardcore like 1/5th circle on one section of the flywheel, which has some massive contact burn or rub on it. ( we are not talking about a ring around the whole flywheel we talking say if you looking at it, on the bottom left, there is a circle of burned or metal rubbing on thats pretty big) Seeing this is odd, as it spins in a circle, how can it have rub marks in one spot and not grind the whole way around.

i inspect the clutch. now i think it's a ACT clutch, it has a blue pressure plate and it's all in one piece. i remember buying it being a stage 2.5 the best before a puck. there's more to the clutch but let me finish. the OEM Nissan japan throw out bearing spins and looks fine. no wobble no-nothing, it's perfect looking and no grind. my fork is a little odd as it looks crappy and the pilot knob that it sits on looks fine. my master cylinder is newer and when we push the clutch pedal, it doesn't leak and the pedal has good response. i replaced the slave with a autozone one, but i don't think my old slave was bad as it pushed the fork perfectly, and the old one (Also auto zone - lifetime warranty just swapped it out) i only had it for a year and worked great.

we spun the spline with the tranny off and everything else off and all the gears seemed fine, there was no grinding or anything. now back to the clutch. the clutch surface looked fine. but the inside where the multi disks were looks questionable as i say some "fraying" as if clutch was shredded. me and my friend looked at the springs and surface and concluded that it was fine and everything is in order and the pressure plate felt great, and that the fraying on the inside of the clutch is from it being stuck on the flywheel and grind-ed all those times i tried to slam it into gear.

well anywho the sleeve that the throw out bearing is pushed into when extended to far in was getting caught up on the spline in one location. it was due to the fact that A. there was no lube. or B it was over extending somehow. so we concluded that ok maybe it just needed some more high temp grease. so we lube the crap out of it and stick the tranny back in the car. before we got to sticking on the drive shaft we cranked the car and instantly it felt like as if i was starting the car in first gear as it cranked slow.


i look under the car and the back of the transmission , the spline that hooks up to the drive shaft is spinning like a MOFO. now we called a few people, and they said that because there is no force exerted on the spline that the friction of the liquid in the transmission could cause the spline in the back to move a little. but this is flying at a million miles an hour. so we wedge a wrench on it to see if it's truly getting power. the wrench flew out pretty hard, so in conclusion we don't know what is causing the car to be moving. (i put the shifter knob in neutral and had the clutch pressed all the way down, and it still was moving the spline in the rear of the transmission as if it was in gear. it had power to it)

I'm soon to buy a new clutch, new fork, new pilot knob for the fork and new throwout bearing. also a new "sleeve that the throw out bearing is pushed into" ( does anyone have a name for this sleeve that would be awesome, i mentioned it many times in my problem as the sleeve the throwout bearing is pushed into.).

So far possible symptoms i heard from people are A. my clutch fork is bent. B. throw out bearing is bad and i swear this thing is perfectly round and spins perfectly fine. (only year old) C. my clutch is f'd in which i could believe but the surface looks fine but the insides are a lil frayed.. it has years of meat left on it, it's like new. D. the tranny is fed up but spins fine when you hand spin it. E. MY b&m short shifter is causing problems. ( i looked at the shifter i only had it in for about 3 months and was working perfect no problem at all) E. my master and slave are bad ( the nipple on the slave pushes that fork pretty nice, people look at it and say it's doing it's job) F. Set car on fire as it's fuct.

Any ideas on what it could possibly be ?

i'm in process in replacing all the clutch internals for tranny but not the tranny itself. do we think it's the clutch fork ?? the tranny? something anything?
 
the reason i said so much is to get the dumb questions out of the way.... like did you drop the tranny. did you try this. and that.. did you stfu get off my thread if you don't wanna read it.
 
ALL 100 % straight.

my clutch fluid is high. i pump the clutch say 100 times.. the fluid stays right where it's at. no leaks no nothing. since i replaced my slave the slave is brand new and the master is like a year old at most.
 
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ALL 100 % straight.

my clutch fluid is high. i pump the clutch say 100 times.. the fluid stays right where it's at. no leaks no nothing. since i replaced my slave the slave is brand new and the master is like a year old at most.

well since you changed your master check your adjustment for the clutch pedal might have gotten loose or move sounds like your issue is that the pressure plate is not being disengaged all the way either from bad dirty fluid or miss adjustments causing all the trany internals to still be spinning to fast for the syncros to do their job and mesh up the gears
 
same thing happen to a friend of mine he let his car roll back then started the car in first and it worked perfect. dont know why but i was there to witness it. :confused:
 
the reason i said so much is to get the dumb questions out of the way.... like did you drop the tranny. did you try this. and that.. did you stfu get off my thread if you don't wanna read it.

lol cool guy acts hard when someone ask for a summary.
 
It's the pedal my car did this and all my shit was new....adjust the pedal so that it fully disengages the clutch.....
 
hmm... to adjust the pedal i would assume i take the clip off and extend or shorten the length of it in the car?

i'll check my pedal, it just doesn't seem right, i was casually driving to work...

now heres something .. my clutch is made up of a couple disks. not just one piece. one is touching the pressure plate, one is touching the flywheel. there's some metal in the middle where it's fraying out. i think it's my clutch. i'll have to take pics.
 
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Either the trans has an internal problems or your clutch is not fully disengaging. And seeing as you said the trans spins fine on the ground, I would bet the clutch is not fully disengaging. I would check the clutch pedal and make sure it's adjusted properly. That's one thing most people don't think about. Also, where the clips on the throw out bearing/fork good? The clips that hold it to the fork and pivot ball? Those would come loose sometimes on mine and would cause the fork to bend and not fully disengage the clutch.
 
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Either the trans has an internal problems or your clutch is not fully disengaging. And seeing as you said the trans spins fine on the ground, I would bet the clutch is not fully engaging. I would check the clutch pedal and make sure it's adjusted properly. That's one thing most people don't think about. Also, where the clips on the throw out bearing/fork good? The clips that hold it to the fork and pivot ball? Those would come loose sometimes on mine and would cause the fork to bend and not fully disengage the clutch.

that is your problem; most likely^

don't think I forgot about you with the trade. I'm in my finals week so i've been busy but i'll give you a call when I'm done.
 
check your clutck fork pivot bolt. fully bleed your lines, if you've done it already why not do it again to make sure. you can also have someone fully depress your clutch while you look at your slave so you can check for full engagement. I had my clutch bolt pivot go out before was a serious pain my ass, had to drive it and rpm/gear match.

http://www.enjukuracing.com/nismo-clutch-fork-pivot-nissan-srka-p-6494.html

you can also pick one up oem from nissan.

thats my best guess.
 
same thing kinda happend to me after a drift session once . i lost 1,3,5
drove on 4th for a while and then they all came back....

drop the tranny and check the clutch/t.o bearing and what not.
 
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