Suspensions for AE86

Zero Method

Spectator
I'm a newb when it comes to this but instead of replacing the bushings I hear its better to invest in Heim joints for track use. So I'm looking into a T3 set-up. I just wanted to hear from other 86 owners about their experiences on the subject.Thank for any input you provide.:bigthumbu
 
If you don't have much money then get coilovers w/ camber plates and a lateral rod to start off. Then gradually go from there with tension rods, rear 4 links, sway bars, etc. Some stainless steel braided brake lines would be a good investment too, most 86's oem lines by now need replacing anyways.

Just having full coilovers with a lateral rod to align the car after you lower it will help the 86 a lot. Also don't forget to keep that engine reliable;).
 
Don 't forget roll center adjusters (RCA's) or negative camber roll center adjusters (NCRCA's). Very necessary when significantly lowering the car.
 
I not an expert by any means so take any advice I give with a grain of salt.

I do not know how good of a driver you are and how familiar you are with the corolla. Personally I'd recommend first replacing the 20 year old bushings. That in itself will make a huge improvement. The prothane urethane kit is fine, you do not need to dig deep into your pocket for the trd version. However if you go the heim-rod way of course you won't need the bushing kit. However depending on your familiarity and skill, I might suggest you try the rubber/plastic bushings before you upgrade to heim rod.

I personally wouldn't bother with the sway bars, as what I've seen on the market, I do not see anything worth buying. (basically cost effective, the cost does not meet the benefits)

Coilovers, you have a decent selection. T3, Battleversion (if you can find one), Paradise Racing, Megans, Greddy, DG5 (BALLER!), TechnoProSpirit, and tons of various japanese works products, or... you can make your own. Not that difficult if you have access to a welder. If you want to know how to make it, let me know and I'll tell you how. Pretty much they're all the same. They all do the same stock strut conversion, weld on the sleeve, and put on a choice of springs and dampers. I personally like Swift springs. I do not like the AGX dampers. (T3 uses them) I personally feel they're really weird for the corolla, but of course if you're budget oriented, you might have no option. Which is why I recommend the make it yourself route. I personally recommend HTS or the TRD's. Cost alot more, but really nice. If you have the money, you can even shell out for Ohlins or something better.

If you're also getting a 4 link, try to compliment it with some tension rods. That way the front and rear will both be consistent. I'm personally waiting for Alex (battleversion) to remake and rerelease his tension rods. If you do go that route, and get camber plates etc. you won't 'need' nrca's, you can just get rca's.

There is also the option of traction brackets. I personally do not like the way they feel. It's preference. You might like them. Try to see if anyone has them and ride their car before you spend the money.

Also a bit of additional help, you can pour urethane foam into your rocker panels etc, into the various cavities. The rigidity increase from what I remember was about 40% compared to a roll cage.

You have alot of options and different approaches. If you need more help let me know, and I'll do my best to help you out.

Honestly since you say you're a 'newb' I really just recommend, replacing those blown dampers, replace the worn out bushings, refreshen the car, and learning on that first before you make the upgrade to nicer suspension. I personally feel you'll get a better feel of the car that way, then to jump straight into a built car. (It will be alot harder compared to a built car, but the feedback you get of the cars behavior is priceless I think.)

Also don't forget to rebuild/replace that LSD. If you want, I have the FSM, and I can give you the part numbers for the clutch packs in the stock LSD. You can rebuild it with thicker packs and have the same effect as a TRD LSD for half the price. T3's LSD rebuild kit is just exactly that, they're selling you the thicker clutch packs that you can buy from Toyota all at once instead of having to find all the part numbers.
 
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battle version tie rods own all get some im rocking them on my supra (the ones made for the 86) they are pretty much unbreakble
 
Honestly since you say you're a 'newb' I really just recommend, replacing those blown dampers, replace the worn out bushings, refreshen the car, and learning on that first before you make the upgrade to nicer suspension. I personally feel you'll get a better feel of the car that way, then to jump straight into a built car. (It will be alot harder compared to a built car, but the feedback you get of the cars behavior is priceless I think.)

Also don't forget to rebuild/replace that LSD. If you want, I have the FSM, and I can give you the part numbers for the clutch packs in the stock LSD. You can rebuild it with thicker packs and have the same effect as a TRD LSD for half the price. T3's LSD rebuild kit is just exactly that, they're selling you the thicker clutch packs that you can buy from Toyota all at once instead of having to find all the part numbers.

That's what I was thinking, learning the car in stock form first.(cause yes I'm totally new to the driving aspect of the car.)but, It's nice to hear the opinions
of people who have experience on the subject.:D

SAS said:
battle version tie rods own all get some im rocking them on my supra (the ones made for the 86) they are pretty much unbreakable
:eek:That seriously says alot if they lasted in your Supra.
 
I not an expert by any means so take any advice I give with a grain of salt.

I do not know how good of a driver you are and how familiar you are with the corolla. Personally I'd recommend first replacing the 20 year old bushings. That in itself will make a huge improvement. The prothane urethane kit is fine, you do not need to dig deep into your pocket for the trd version. However if you go the heim-rod way of course you won't need the bushing kit. However depending on your familiarity and skill, I might suggest you try the rubber/plastic bushings before you upgrade to heim rod.

I personally wouldn't bother with the sway bars, as what I've seen on the market, I do not see anything worth buying. (basically cost effective, the cost does not meet the benefits)

Coilovers, you have a decent selection. T3, Battleversion (if you can find one), Paradise Racing, Megans, Greddy, DG5 (BALLER!), TechnoProSpirit, and tons of various japanese works products, or... you can make your own. Not that difficult if you have access to a welder. If you want to know how to make it, let me know and I'll tell you how. Pretty much they're all the same. They all do the same stock strut conversion, weld on the sleeve, and put on a choice of springs and dampers. I personally like Swift springs. I do not like the AGX dampers. (T3 uses them) I personally feel they're really weird for the corolla, but of course if you're budget oriented, you might have no option. Which is why I recommend the make it yourself route. I personally recommend HTS or the TRD's. Cost alot more, but really nice. If you have the money, you can even shell out for Ohlins or something better.

If you're also getting a 4 link, try to compliment it with some tension rods. That way the front and rear will both be consistent. I'm personally waiting for Alex (battleversion) to remake and rerelease his tension rods. If you do go that route, and get camber plates etc. you won't 'need' nrca's, you can just get rca's.

There is also the option of traction brackets. I personally do not like the way they feel. It's preference. You might like them. Try to see if anyone has them and ride their car before you spend the money.

Also a bit of additional help, you can pour urethane foam into your rocker panels etc, into the various cavities. The rigidity increase from what I remember was about 40% compared to a roll cage.

You have alot of options and different approaches. If you need more help let me know, and I'll do my best to help you out.

Honestly since you say you're a 'newb' I really just recommend, replacing those blown dampers, replace the worn out bushings, refreshen the car, and learning on that first before you make the upgrade to nicer suspension. I personally feel you'll get a better feel of the car that way, then to jump straight into a built car. (It will be alot harder compared to a built car, but the feedback you get of the cars behavior is priceless I think.)

Also don't forget to rebuild/replace that LSD. If you want, I have the FSM, and I can give you the part numbers for the clutch packs in the stock LSD. You can rebuild it with thicker packs and have the same effect as a TRD LSD for half the price. T3's LSD rebuild kit is just exactly that, they're selling you the thicker clutch packs that you can buy from Toyota all at once instead of having to find all the part numbers.

I can agree with about everything you said, but about the sway bars, Cusco and Largus have very good sway bars. TRD also has a really good front sway bar, but their rear sway bar is only 1 millimeter larger than stock, so TRD rear sway bar is not a good option.

Another thing, NCRCA's. Even though camber plates add a good amount of camber and track, NCRCA's really improve the track of the car. My NCRCA's add about 35 mm of track on each side. That is almost 3 inches of track added in total, making my car have a wider stance that will improve steering response.

I just want to add, when you upgrade suspension with F: 8kg/mm R: 6kg/mm spring, TRD or Tokico HTS shocks, Cusco or Largus sway bars, and polyurethane bushings, you will need tires that can definately hold the road very well. The car will be more prone to understeer/oversteer if you are just using regular Futura tires. I recommend Falken Azenis RT-615 or Hankook RS-2 because they come in AE86 friendly sizes, and very affordable for the performance. Also, it's a street tire that has nearly racing tire characteristics.

David, I am not ragging on your advice, as for I think your advice was really good. I just voiced out my opinion.

JKD4AG, you might have to spend some money when a setup doesn't conform to your style of driving. Sometimes your spring rates might not accommodate what you are looking for, so you have to try different rates. Sometimes the shock valving isn't what you were looking for, and so on. Just research your options, and don't cheap out on anything.:bigthumbu
 
I can agree with about everything you said, but about the sway bars, Cusco and Largus have very good sway bars. TRD also has a really good front sway bar, but their rear sway bar is only 1 millimeter larger than stock, so TRD rear sway bar is not a good option.

Another thing, NCRCA's. Even though camber plates add a good amount of camber and track, NCRCA's really improve the track of the car. My NCRCA's add about 35 mm of track on each side. That is almost 3 inches of track added in total, making my car have a wider stance that will improve steering response.

I just want to add, when you upgrade suspension with F: 8kg/mm R: 6kg/mm spring, TRD or Tokico HTS shocks, Cusco or Largus sway bars, and polyurethane bushings, you will need tires that can definately hold the road very well. The car will be more prone to understeer/oversteer if you are just using regular Futura tires. I recommend Falken Azenis RT-615 or Hankook RS-2 because they come in AE86 friendly sizes, and very affordable for the performance. Also, it's a street tire that has nearly racing tire characteristics.

David, I am not ragging on your advice, as for I think your advice was really good. I just voiced out my opinion.

JKD4AG, you might have to spend some money when a setup doesn't conform to your style of driving. Sometimes your spring rates might not accommodate what you are looking for, so you have to try different rates. Sometimes the shock valving isn't what you were looking for, and so on. Just research your options, and don't cheap out on anything.:bigthumbu

Well, I guess this thread is over lol. I can honestly say I wish I knew this info when I first got mine awhile back, I learned with tons of research and trial and error. There's a lot of good info on this thread. I just stated a basic setup(thanks Noel, I did forget the rca or nrca). The more aftermarket the more things can get confusing to someone new to driving(camber, toe, caster, etc). I just want you to have a good car to practice with.

I will say read a lot about suspension tuning. Any car with lower hp will need a good suspension tune and a ballsy driver that will stay on the throttle when your brain says "slow down!" lol. In motorsports it's all about reliability, tuning and the driver.


PS Feel free to come to any Never Lift member at an event when we come back and ask anything you want. We are a minority but a nice and helpful one. ;)
 
For the most part everyone has good tips here to help a fellow 86er out. So it's all good :bigthumbu.


Oh and some things you may want to check also are the rear brake calipers after a long time are notorious to freeze up or not work properly and also check the e-brake cable, it's also notorious for getting streched and not locking up after awhile.
 
Thanks for all the input, I have alot to think about. But rest assured when It comes to this project, I will not cut corners. I'll let you guys know how this car progresses, and I'll pick your brains when I have a questions. Thanks.:D
 
all very good suspension setups like david, jdm86 and redline state... they know their shit, look at their cars = slow sex!

BUT if you're getting started and are broke (most likely after that 86 drift tax), here's a cheap way that'll get you very, very far.

*paradise racing coilovers (cheap as hell, custom spring rates. Mod your struts)
*AGX shocks (look into the rear MR2's for the front and rear mustang ~ cheap & stiff)
*bushings (i'll leave this up to you, many solutions here, this is a MUST)
*Ebay Strut bars (can't go wrong, they are so cheap)
*LSD (maybe/depends on your car, i rocked one of those used TRD 1.5 way's on ebay $230 or so i paid two years ago)


here's a full suspension setup for under $500-800. You can upgrade + add in the future. Tension rods, NRCA's, sways, links, harder mounts etc are useless to a beginer not to mention a waste of money if you decide you want to be like everyone else and jump on a 240 :D


sorry, went a little overboard in that last comment :laugh:

p.s. paradise racing coilovers are meh they make lots of noises and i broke one of their "billet" hats and that wasnt a pleasant experience. +1 for custom rates though.
 
*AGX shocks (look into the rear MR2's for the front and rear mustang ~ cheap & stiff)
just letting you know it's the Sw20mr2 and it's not mustang but Camaro rear agx dampers also if you want for the rear, you can get cheap tokico HP (blues) and put it on a lathe shorten the piston & rethread it and it will be equivalent to the TRD short stroke at setting 2
 
just letting you know it's the Sw20mr2 and it's not mustang but Camaro rear agx dampers also if you want for the rear, you can get cheap tokico HP (blues) and put it on a lathe shorten the piston & rethread it and it will be equivalent to the TRD short stroke at setting 2
you are right its camaro.

but tokiko HP's were hella bouncy on 8f/6r trd japans. i had them for two weeks untill i decided the setup sucked and got AGX's as per everyone's recomendation + they have a shorter stroke to begin with....haven't been o dorikaze for the longest time i'm gonna log on to see what's cookin
 
Tokico HP's are too slow moving for the 8/6kg set up. On top of that, the stroke is too long. I am sure those shocks hated you.
 
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