sr20det coil-packs ft. lauderdale?

V

Vr6wantsr20det

Driver
Wondering if anyone has a set of sr20det (s13/s14) Coil-packs i would be able to use/try one day for about 20-30mins. I will offer the person $20.00 for the rental, some beer if you're a drinker or if you like to Blaze that can be offered as well. I will do all the work if they are on your car at the moment (take yours off, and test on my car, then put back on when done).

Problem is i am having a Horribly annoying hesitation under very light throttle and my power sucks. I have replaced the TPS, Coolant temp-sensor. Checked the plugs/gap etc. It may be a Knock sensor, but i'm leaning more towards the coil-packs. I can hear the car stutter/miss a bit at idle and gas mileage is crappy to. I just want to test the coil-packs and if it will FIX the problem, i will buy all new ones from Enjuku ($75.00). I just don't want to spend any more money especially 300.00 if it's NOT going to fix the problems. And if the coil-packs Don't fix it, then i would be sure it's the Knock Sensor (annoying to get to, but if needed i'll replace it).

What is bothering me, is the Nissan Datscan i have shows NO Codes (Code 55: No fualts). It's been driving me nuts, and making driving the car no fun at all. It becomes a Chore instead of being Enjoyable.

Appreciate anyones offers if they would be willing to help me out at their convenience. I am free monday-fri after 6pm and all weekend.

thanks,
Robert :bigthumbu
 
vas570sx said:
your coil packs are weak, that's why it runs better since Harvey lowered your gap.
Click to expand...

i dont think so
sr's are supposed to have a gap of .025-.028
mine were at .035-.038

with them gaped right it runs perfect

either way hes welcome to try it out
 
check your alternator and battery levels. also try checking every single fuse.
My car runs like sh8 sometimes and even sounds like the muffler is blown and i usually find blown fuses and restore power when ther're replaced. i know! i got wiring issues and then some.
 
/\/\/\ I believe you may be on to something as i have been seeing the Voltage vary. I have replaced the sr20det alternator with a NEW (Pepboys) ka24de one a few months ago. Had to drill out one of the holes and use the Sr20det pulley. (also had to grind down the back of the pulley as it sat too far off the ka24de alternator and the pulley/belt didn't line up.

I do notice that initially my Voltage starts off about 13.8V when the car is first on. As i drive for a while with lights on, FAL 12" fans etc. the voltage does drop, and at a stop holding my brakes i notice that it can sometimes go down to about 11.7-11.8v. My front main seal is leaking and slowly spewing oil (i have a new seal at home waiting to swap out). But my alternator was CAKED/Covered in oil. I used some brake cleaner to try and clean it best i could. No blown fuses but i do believe this alternator is on it's way out. I may just have to order an oem Sr20det one, and also a new pulley since i ground it down to fit the ka24de one. . :ugh:
 
ok well i've replaced the alternator with an Sr20det one. The voltage is now good, but the bucking/hesitation is now WORSE!!! I also replaced the front main seal so hopefully i won't have to worry about oil spewing about. I'm at a loss now, i would like to still try the coil-packs to rule it out, but i'm leaning more towards the KNOCK sensor now. When it hesitates, it's almost like the engine is stalling out, i either have to press the Gas pedal down a lot further to get past that point and get the accelerating again, or i have to let off the throttle fully and then get back on to get it accelerating again. :confused:
 
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