Short Block Need help

B

BadazzSr20

NKOTB
ok let try this a diffrent way.... ok im going to buy the CP Pistons, Eagle Rods, ACL Race Bearing Set, ACL Race Bearings, with these things going in what else do i need to finish the short block. im not doing a full build just building the bottom end so it strong once i get more money ill start the top. anything else ill need for the short block or will these things cover it?

thanks again guys
 
thats not what im looking for. i dont want to stroke it out. i want stock compression 9.0.1 just want better strong stuff.i can use mazworx stuff but whatelse do i need for it to be a short block complete. wrist pins, oem gaskets, head gasket, arp head studs, what else am i missing. should i do oil pump and water pump while im in there or are the stock ones strong anough to hold power! these are the answers i need
 
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stock compression of 9.0?
Bro, you dont need to be building a motor if you dont even know what stock compression is.
 
Do the head first, head makes power, bottom holds it. And when it comes to it 11:1 compression If you you have any ballz.
 
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enjuku ran 11.1 compression in the old race cars. Shits like stoned to the bone on the edge roastin kinda shit.
 
robertftw said:
how much power? what turbo and boost?
Click to expand...

The silver car made just assloads of power. I wanna say like 450-460 wheel. Im pretty sure it was a 3071 or 3076. Im pretty sure they were all the same motor set-ups. 90 or 91mm bore, stock stroke, nasty nasty compression. I know Bills red car made shit tons of power and it had the 2.2 gnarly compression set-up. I think they had a problem with dropping sleeves though from that gnarly bore.
 
Im pretty sure the old high comp engines "enjuku" built all blew up pretty quickly (like less than hr of run time ea). And the original turbos IIRC were top mounted gt2871r's. They later changed to the GT30 variants (GT3071r's).

Anyway, I'd ditch the idea of eagle rods and spend a little more money getting something of much higher quality. Or like someone else mentioned, start with the head first. If you have a good condition SR, the stock block can handle a lot of punishment if tuned correctly. Don't waste your money on a shitty headgasket either (cometic) - go with a Cosworth (or if you are the JDM type, HKS, Apexi, or Power Enterprise only). Of course get some ARP studs. A new oil pump and/or water pump should be considered insurance for your freshly built engine - how shitty would it be to drop a couple grand and know your engine is toast b/c of oil starvation or overheating? Never skimp on a build.
 
I got an apexi headgasket I'll sell ya dirtcheap. I had a topmount gt2871 with the 3inch inlet on my car on 25+ psi and my bottom end is solid as shit. Got an Apexi Gasket on there with ARP headstuds and all thats solid too. I have a retarded port and polish job on my head with BC cams(un-degreed so im losin power) and that setup rode the fuck out. Stock SR bottom end will hold alot more than you think.
 
eagle rods work fine has made 820hp for over 2 years on a ls civic with no issues. dont know bout the sr20 rods. other than that +1 for what tony said.

I spoke with mazworx a few years ago and they said around 500hp on good stock bottom.
 
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Yes, many people have had success w/ eagle rods. Some have not. I do not trust anything from China so if I build a bottom end I want to last (should be the goal for most of us!), I'll take as little a risk as possible and go with a brand who's operations are more transparent and IMO, trustworthy.

Stock bottom cannot sustain 500hp though. Maybe that's what it can handle, but you'd be hard pressed to find anyone who beats on their SR in track conditions to hold up to those power levels. It also depends on what it takes to get to that 500hp level (turbo size, fuel, etc) and the condition of the engine.

Realistically, with 93oct and occasional drifting/racing, I'd say 375-400whp is safe with a proper setup. Some tuners I know have said more like 350-375. Beyond that, you're rollin the dice.
 
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