please help s13 wont start

:confused:need help car cranks but wont start, starter works, new ignition rotor, new plugs, cap is good coil pack is geting the constant 12 volts it needs, fuel goes in but the spark plugs wont spark, theres no current to the spark plugs, ive heard that it could be the ecu, distributor or the plug wires, anyone know how to check the dizzy or ecu if its good so i wont buy new ones? on single cam ka
if so lmk thanks in advanced
 
put a new fuse for the ignition but other then that still nothing and havent checked grounds, mainly cause i bearly know about electrical issues like grounds lol
 
Checked timing?

And to troubleshoot an ECU simply look at the light on the side of it. It should be green/red. If not on then it's not getting power/fried etc.
 
Just means the car is getting power when ignition (key on, engine off) is one but when power is applied that changes.

Yes, the ecu is getting power if light is indicated but doesn't mean anything.



Car run since cap, rotor, other things added?

Seems like you have tools (testing the coil)


Grounds are attached to most anything that gives/receives power. They are always a black wire (on factory wiring) and will only be applied to a ground which is anything metal (frame, firewall, ect) and never applied to anything that emits power (positive battery terminal, anything that has power applied to it)

---------- Post added at 08:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:25 PM ----------

Clarity on grounds on parts, like a coil pack has power ( or neutral wire or intermittent power) and with that you need it grounded so it will have a black wire (most likely a small gauge wire and a circle end terminal)

---------- Post added at 08:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:28 PM ----------

Clarity on grounds on parts, like a coil pack has power ( or neutral wire or intermittent power) and with that you need it grounded so it will have a black wire (most likely a small gauge wire and a circle end terminal)
 
true and yea once but then it took a shit

and all i see are black wires but i get where most grounds should go, so i need to make sure that they are put in right?
and is there any way to check the dizzy? just incase its that instead of the ecu?

---------- Post added at 09:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:38 PM ----------

it not that i have tools its that i live near autozone with free rentals :D lol
 
Well, before jumping to larger conclusions check simple stuff and check ot again.


Grounds just have to at the correct mounting point for good contact such as battery ground and simple stuff, start from the last place you worked near before this.


Is it sparking on any cylinders or none at all?

If none, check things that would relate to no spark in any cylinders. Start back at cap rotor, it's fast to check and just because it's new doesn't mean it's good. Play with the ignition timing (+/-) and see for changes. Then wires, relating, grounds, sensors or plugs. If distributor timing was off good odds are it would delays on Start up, incistant starting sounds and or backfiring.


Check ecu codes and see what it has there.
 
well it not sparking in none and ive checked cap and rotor like 3 times so i guess tomorrow ill play with the timing and check the sensors plugs and grounds and ill go from there

and ill need to take my car to autozone to check the ecu codes which ill have to push the car and ill have to cross us1 which isnt a very bright idea cause they dont rent out those scanners
 
You check codes my flash codes, unbolt the ecu (leave plugged in) there is a circular knob with a single light next to it. The knob has a - in it, use a flathead and turn it (I believe it says test or something on one side) it will be clock of counter clockwise and it's a 180 degree turn (this is off the to of my head so if someone knows speak up, the procedure is correct but one detail might be off)

When the knob is turned the light will blink (can't remember if it flashes plause and flash or flash fast pause then flash slow) it will keep repeating.

It is a double digit code so 11,25,33,16 (examples)

Then match the code to the codes concern.




There is a recent article on TR about this in Nissan tech or if not I'll find it and post the link
 
Go grab the coil while someone turns it over ^_^ See if you can 'feel' it working.

Single cams are pretty simple. Verify the coil is trying to put out some voltage first. If not, it's probably an issue with the ecu seeing if the motor is actually turning. (optic in distributor?) i.e.; like a crank angle sensor not working (trying to think of easy way to explain)
 
Yeah pretty much what I tried to say lol. ecu is pretty good odds it's not bad.


But checking codes would be a nice start maybe narrow down some options
 
well the coil is good cause i used the multimeter on it and it had the constant 12 volts it should have but then again i didnt try to crank it so ill try that tomorrow couldnt really do anything today cause of work

and that link for the codes would be pretty helpful
 
yea i get it,also read that it could be the injectors flooding the engine when i turn it on and that that could stop the spark from going through
 
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