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- Thread starter Sec2Nun
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Thanks i love 240 especially the coupes but didn't have enough money to have two cars so i figured i'd drift in my mustang. the only problem i'm having is no one seems to know what suspension is good for my car. i've called alot of mustang performance shops but they all just focus on 1/4 mile suspension. would you happen to know a good suspension setup or know anyone that could help me
Talk to RHYTHM DRIFTING
He slides a cobra vert, and does it well
He slides a cobra vert, and does it well
Someone must sell suspension for Mustangs that are for road racing and not just 1/4 times. Just keep at it and keeping doing research :bigthumbu .
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i spoke with the guys at steeda and all they focus on is road racing suspension, when i told the guy that i was going to drift he stated that their suspensions are "ment to keep you on the road not off the road" What a fag,
where is the countyline drift event at (sorry new to the scene not to familiar with everything yet)
where is the countyline drift event at (sorry new to the scene not to familiar with everything yet)
Allright here we go!!!!! "MAXIMUM MOTORSPORTS"!!!!!! These guys are the one and only gods of mustang suspension for roadracing (and drifting for they call for similar setups), next to a complete custom track only suspension setup. I installed their coil over setup along with urethaine bushings and some other cobra specific goodies and love all of it. Their products are more than what they claim and the instructions are so easy as long as you have the tools and some mech skills you can install almost all of there products. Their service is great too, I had a slight problem with one item being shipped wrong (4 days before the next event) and they had me the correct part free of charge in time with time to spare. Lots of medium to really hardcore products. For some performance parts that are more street friendly than mostly race you can get them from "STEEDA". Good well made parts but there top shelf only goes as far as upgraded shocks, coils, swaybars, and things like that. Steeda is more of an stock replacement/ upgrade and Maximum Motorsports is more of a full system revamp with there products. I personaly have quite a few products from both companies because different parts endure different stresses under drifting. Please feel free to ask me anything about where to get started and what not.... love to see another mustang out there!
Yea I had this same problem with them!!!!! They are a little stuck up when it comes to anything but RR!!! Some of the sales guys dont even care for their own drag parts. He asked me what track I ran at and then I told him what I used the car for and he told me that I couldnt do it without a full racecar..... So I showed him the vids and he didnt say anything... I suggested that there might be a profit for them to start advertising some of their RR parts as Drift parts because its getting popular for the mustangs to slide and the guy laughed at me and handed me my reciept.
That guy is good!!!
Sec2Nun said:
Yea I had this same problem with them!!!!! They are a little stuck up when it comes to anything but RR!!! Some of the sales guys dont even care for their own drag parts. He asked me what track I ran at and then I told him what I used the car for and he told me that I couldnt do it without a full racecar..... So I showed him the vids and he didnt say anything... I suggested that there might be a profit for them to start advertising some of their RR parts as Drift parts because its getting popular for the mustangs to slide and the guy laughed at me and handed me my reciept.
DUDOCIUS said:
That guy is good!!!
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Yes but its slightly expensive and really involved... Replacing the K-member and lower A-arms with a Maximum setup... see the steering angle sucks because before the rack is maxed out the inside of the tire usualy (17X9) rubs on the outer support bracket of the factory K-member cuz its really big and has a huge rolled lip that adds another 1 1/2" to its width. The Maximum on it tight together and a strong tube & box style (unlike drag tube k-members that twist and break under our conditons). It is posible to slide well without it though... I dont have it yet (still running stock) it just takes more throttle control and a good feel for the car because they just fucking let go when they want. But my friend has an 04 gt and I have gotten that to do some steady slides but with the stock suspension transfers are hopless... but overal its possible. It just takes a little longer to get down than some other cars because of the cars weight. Also easyest and cheepest way to get the weight under some control is to get loweing springs and urethane swaybar bushings. (sould be under $500 in materials) This will help you with the car wanting to slide out from under you and in the same instance making the stearing slightly less of an issue...
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Good info ^^^
jakeishness
Spectator
welcome doode! good luck with the mustang drift! not many of those goin on down here in south florida! good luck and happy slidin! 
Thanks again,
rythm can i get the lowering springs and urethane swaybar bushings at MAXIMUM MOTORSPORTS? what lowering springs do you recommend? What about shocks,struts. Looking for a good inexpensive setup that can get me started and i can grow from. don't mean to ask so many questions just a hole new scene for me.
rythm can i get the lowering springs and urethane swaybar bushings at MAXIMUM MOTORSPORTS? what lowering springs do you recommend? What about shocks,struts. Looking for a good inexpensive setup that can get me started and i can grow from. don't mean to ask so many questions just a hole new scene for me.
Sec2Nun said:
Not a problem... I will look into that and I will reply sometime tomorow with prices and all.
nigga put down your purse, change your tampon, and get the coilovers!!!
:bigthumbu :bigthumbu :bigthumbu :bigthumbu :bigthumbu
:bigthumbu :bigthumbu :bigthumbu :bigthumbu :bigthumbu
Ok here is a quick look at what a good base build for a 04 GT.
Manufactures
STEEDA
RPM Outlet
Parts List
STEEDA
Springs
Steeda V8 Competition Springs $269.96
DISC.
• Lowers the car approximately 11/4â€
• Ultimate handling with a street-able ride
• Slightly firmer ride than Sport Springs
Steeda Polyurethane Front Isolators - '79-'04 $29.95
Steeda Polyurethane Rear Isolators - '79-'04 $29.95
DISC.
Spring isolator bushings isolate the car from road vibrations. Missing or worn out isolators can make the car sag or sit unevenly. Replace them with durable urethane isolators.
Struts
Tokico Front Struts $139.95 each
Tokico Rear Struts $68.95 each
DISC.
Tokico's high performance struts and shocks feature the same high quality as their top-of-the-line Illumina shocks in a less expensive non-adjustable package. Their dampening is tuned to a firm "sport" mode for maximum control without being harsh.
Chassis
Steeda Front Strut $149.95
RPM Outlet
Chassis
Kenny Brown Rear Strut $139.95
Kenny Brown Extreme Braces $199.95
Kenny Brown Jacking Rails $89.95
Ok... This is a total chassis build and a medium suspension build but overall will have an amazing affect on the car and its capabilities. The total for this project is roughly $1,120.00 (without tax or shipping). If you have the cash for it this setup will last you a long ways until your power levels bring you cornering speeds up to where you need to upgrade to Coil-Overs. But personally you don’t need all this now. To fit into the less expensive side of things here is the setup I recommend to start with.
Steeda V8 Competition Springs $269.96
Steeda Polyurethane Front Isolators - '79-'04 $29.95
Steeda Polyurethane Rear Isolators - '79-'04 $29.95
Steeda Front Strut $149.95
Kenny Brown Rear Strut $139.95
Total est $620
(You don’t necessarily need the isolators which will save you $60 ($560) but they will help with the ride quality and a slight increase in response)
The struts are not need as much as the lower ride height. The springs will make a good amount of stiffness and the lower height will make its slide smoother. I do suggest urethane bushings for the swaybars, tie-rod ends, and struts. (Which are cheap, like anywhere from $9 to $25) This will make you stock struts feel better than new. You can knock off another $140 ($480 or $420 with no isolators) by getting rid of the rear strut but it really does help. I have the steeda front and all of the Kenny Brown parts I have listed and my convt is like riding in a caged coupe. As far as the front strut goes you need it… The front of the car is like a shoebox… You put pressure on it and it just twists and bends so it’s a must. Hope that this is a help and let me know if you need more specifics.
Manufactures
STEEDA
RPM Outlet
Parts List
STEEDA
Springs
Steeda V8 Competition Springs $269.96
DISC.
• Lowers the car approximately 11/4â€
• Ultimate handling with a street-able ride
• Slightly firmer ride than Sport Springs
Steeda Polyurethane Front Isolators - '79-'04 $29.95
Steeda Polyurethane Rear Isolators - '79-'04 $29.95
DISC.
Spring isolator bushings isolate the car from road vibrations. Missing or worn out isolators can make the car sag or sit unevenly. Replace them with durable urethane isolators.
Struts
Tokico Front Struts $139.95 each
Tokico Rear Struts $68.95 each
DISC.
Tokico's high performance struts and shocks feature the same high quality as their top-of-the-line Illumina shocks in a less expensive non-adjustable package. Their dampening is tuned to a firm "sport" mode for maximum control without being harsh.
Chassis
Steeda Front Strut $149.95
RPM Outlet
Chassis
Kenny Brown Rear Strut $139.95
Kenny Brown Extreme Braces $199.95
Kenny Brown Jacking Rails $89.95
Ok... This is a total chassis build and a medium suspension build but overall will have an amazing affect on the car and its capabilities. The total for this project is roughly $1,120.00 (without tax or shipping). If you have the cash for it this setup will last you a long ways until your power levels bring you cornering speeds up to where you need to upgrade to Coil-Overs. But personally you don’t need all this now. To fit into the less expensive side of things here is the setup I recommend to start with.
Steeda V8 Competition Springs $269.96
Steeda Polyurethane Front Isolators - '79-'04 $29.95
Steeda Polyurethane Rear Isolators - '79-'04 $29.95
Steeda Front Strut $149.95
Kenny Brown Rear Strut $139.95
Total est $620
(You don’t necessarily need the isolators which will save you $60 ($560) but they will help with the ride quality and a slight increase in response)
The struts are not need as much as the lower ride height. The springs will make a good amount of stiffness and the lower height will make its slide smoother. I do suggest urethane bushings for the swaybars, tie-rod ends, and struts. (Which are cheap, like anywhere from $9 to $25) This will make you stock struts feel better than new. You can knock off another $140 ($480 or $420 with no isolators) by getting rid of the rear strut but it really does help. I have the steeda front and all of the Kenny Brown parts I have listed and my convt is like riding in a caged coupe. As far as the front strut goes you need it… The front of the car is like a shoebox… You put pressure on it and it just twists and bends so it’s a must. Hope that this is a help and let me know if you need more specifics.
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