need your guys opinion on rotors

I suggest neither. Slotted and drilled rotors are usually a waste of time and kill that initial bite and pedal feel. Instead, save yourself even more money and go pick up a set of OE replacement rotors from Bennet.
 
Tonymac said:
I suggest neither. Slotted and drilled rotors are usually a waste of time and kill that initial bite and pedal feel. Instead, save yourself even more money and go pick up a set of OE replacement rotors from Bennet.

+1
 
go with the slotted... I got some brembos im slapping on today Slotted Only.. but ive been driving with some crossdrilled only for over 2 years and they work great

Found this... Kinda confirms what Tony Mac Said

Rotors in a braking system do 2 things. They act as a heatsink so they absorb heat when you brake, and dissipate it normally from air moving over them. The larger the rotor, the more the metal. The more the metal, the more heat can be absorbed during braking and the more fade resistance your car will have. Stock brake rotors are blanks, this means that they are just a flat surface. This is the surface your brake pad will mate to and provides the largest total available clamping area per revolution. There are several different variations of the standard brake rotor that carry a general misconception in their execution. 1 of those is slotting.

[[Slotting:]] Doing this to a brake rotor does have benefits, but is more visually appealing than beneficial. Slotting a rotor provides angled slots along the surface that exist to help wipe the pad surface clean on every pass. This ensures a fresh pad surface at all times and it does in fact help protect a pad against fade since it always scrapes off the top layer. It also helps with water and debris evacuation. There are several problems with slots however that outweigh these benefits. One of them is the fact that part of the brake pad is not in contact with the rotor at any given time. This means a lower total square inch area of friction material doing what its there for - applying braking torque. If part of your pad isn't touching, then whats the purpose of it being there? Another issue is with the manufacturing process and physical properties. A slotted rotor is thinner in some areas and although more structurally sound than cross drilling - it still weakens the rotor by providing a thinner section of metal in areas making them more prone to warping there. Another problem depends on if you get a more "economy" production. This means the fresh blank gets churned out in high numbers by a shop that isn't doing it for a quality name but the almighty dollar. In turn, they are cut too hard and too fast by the machine making metals first heat treating an uneven distribution. Its heat treated around and in the cut but the areas nearby don't get hot enough so the isolated spots modified the grain structure of the metal permanently but not all of it. This will also make them more prone to warping. Another problem with slotted rotors is they can tend to create an undesirable pulsating pedal feel by nature. The level is application variant (i.e. more big slots= more pulsing)

[[Cross drilling:]] Cross drilling a rotor is a practice adopted probably 50 years ago when the materials for a braking pad were mainly a crude organic base. These pads when heated would produce a gas that would get trapped between the pad and the rotor and making a cushion of air keeping the pad from braking MOST MODERN RACING PADS ARE DESIGNED WITH DIFFERENT METALLIC MATERIALS THAT ALMOST NEVER PRODUCE MORE THAN A FINITE LEVEL OF GAS Cross drilling was created to give the gas an area to escape through. This means cross drilling a rotor is no longer needed in 99% of applications. Because of the previous need and the stylish benefits these are still widely sold and people are very misinformed on their need. Cross drilled rotors have a large amount of metal removed and suffer the same problems of slotting. This metal is not in contact with the pad so that is less overall available pad contact surface area for braking torque. This also means less metal available to absorb heat essentially functioning as if you had a smaller rotor. Problems with production on cross drilled rotors is they are drilled too fast causing the initial heat treating to be in isolated spots modifying the grain structure of the metal permanently. Another issue is when drilled it tends to create microscopic cracks in the surrounding area. This can cause severe issues and its been reported and photographed before to cause a rotor to actually CRACK IN HALF! If you feel you must have cross drilled rotors for looks dont get "economy" versions. The real cross drilled rotors have the holes actually CAST into the rotor and have a much lower loss in structural integrity.

Source: http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Nissan_240SX_Performance_Modification/Brakes
 
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