NAKED MIKE
Spectator
carlos lopez racing
need rotary info!! please help
- Thread starter whiterabbit7500
- Start date
whiterabbit7500 said:
I'm guessing you've never been to Moroso....
There's also no one in SFL who speaks spanish....... just messin' with you
Remember, we're the closest state to Puerto Rico, there are plenty of good rotary guys around. I would say most of them don't have shops, but just do their own racecars.
I worked for Pettit racing for a short time. They are located in West Palm Beach, and are probably best known for their Banzai RX-7 conversions (the 3rotor FD's)
Choku_Dorian said:
Not really. HICAS is active rear steering while DTSS is a passive system.
Sean Love said:Haha^^^
I used to work for a well known Rotary shop and I have seen both end of the spectrum.
There's no argument that the average piston engine is more reliable though. When both are maintained well, both will run well. But the difference is, a good piston engine can be abused and poorly maintained and will still soldier on.
There are very few poorly maintained rotaries that still run great. Overheat them badly, and they are done. Anything more than slight detonation and you usually need a rebuild.
It's not anything wrong with the motor, just the compromise of the design. Thats the way they are, deal with it or change engines.
Like Mazda says, no rotary powered car ever threw a rod, dropped a valve, holed a piston, or snapped a crank.
But hey, I've never blown an apex seal on my BMW....
Best info by far.
whiterabbit7500
Spectator
Lmao, ya, I should have thought of all the boriqua rotorheads and their insane rotary starlets and first-gen rx's.
I'm leaning a bit away from the rx now for the following reasons:
1. A lot of maintaining always = $ and time...that I don't have much of either right now
2. I'm not a complete moron around cars, but the truth is, I know the basics when it comes to mechanics. You ask me to change a fluid, bleed the brakes, change coilovers, etc. Fine. Ask me to change the apex seal in a 13b, the car will be sitting with no apex seal for a long while because I would have no clue how to do it, and no time to do it anyways.
3. I've taken the info from here, and a lot of other places an realized how delicate these cars are to overheating issues. Considering my last two cars died because of overheating issues, this just doesn't look like the type of engine I would get along too well with.
Thanks for the info though guys...just more proof that SFLD is the shiznetts
I'm leaning a bit away from the rx now for the following reasons:
1. A lot of maintaining always = $ and time...that I don't have much of either right now
2. I'm not a complete moron around cars, but the truth is, I know the basics when it comes to mechanics. You ask me to change a fluid, bleed the brakes, change coilovers, etc. Fine. Ask me to change the apex seal in a 13b, the car will be sitting with no apex seal for a long while because I would have no clue how to do it, and no time to do it anyways.
3. I've taken the info from here, and a lot of other places an realized how delicate these cars are to overheating issues. Considering my last two cars died because of overheating issues, this just doesn't look like the type of engine I would get along too well with.
Thanks for the info though guys...just more proof that SFLD is the shiznetts
A properly maintained rotary motor will last a long time. As far as shops Rx7 shops in miami theres a ton of them you just have to choose one you feel comfortable with and fits your budget. If your trying to do the work yourself its just like anyother motor if you do the homework and the the more you mess with it you will realize that they are pretty simple motors.
nfs_emo_fag said:
lol, i know a couple now...
also they say to keep a half a tank of gas or more in it at all times.
my friends 13b re blew up this weekend, he made 330whp on 1 bar and it was tuned by Scott from Mazsport(sp?) and was setup very well. but he had 1/4 tank and stepped on it, the gas sloshed, the motor leaned out, kaboom. like manfred said.
