need help with a nut from help - engine mount removal

tmwnn88

tmwnn88

Spectator
So I bought driftfreaqs poly engine mounts cause my engine shakes like a mofo. Been trying to install them for 2 days but I cant get the damn driver side bottom mount nut off.:chair:

I tried everything I could think off = raised the engine a bit, used a wobble extension to make sure the socket it fit in right, bought a $20 can of aerokroil cus supposedly is the best damn thing to free stuck nuts, tried torching it, tried a regular wrench and hammer, tried soaking it overnight in aerokroil and repeating the next day, but despite everything it hasnt budged a mm and now the nut is completely stripped off.

Tried a craftsman rounded nut remover socket which has never failed me before, and it failed.
Somehow managed to get a vicegrip tight in there (nearly broke my fingers), and was confident that it would do the trick but nothing...it was tight as hell yet it only slipped, rounding the nut even more.


Ive exhausted all options I can think off save taking it to a shop and have them deal with it.....any ideas????
 
Just did this last week taking my ka out to drop my Sr in...
Jack up front of car and put jack stands on sides. Have engine crane in front of car relieving pressure. Rrmove tire and slide in from the side.

Remove power steering rack and pinion for clearance.

And drill that bitch out. I didn't round mine off but that shouldn't matter.
 
I can attest to how frustrating that driver side mount is to get off. Your best bets are probably 1. to get a stripped nut remover that is slightly too small for the nut and hammer it on so it will never come off, 2. cut it off right between the mount and subframe, 3. do what crayZwhiteboy said.
 
5-pc-bolt-grip%E2%84%A2-base-set-807.jpg


20 bucks at home depot just make sure u bet living piss out of the socket to make sure ur on it good and tight, extension and 3/8" to 1/2" adaptor and use a breaker bar and hold the extension straight and pull. i have taken alot of shit that i thought i would break the bolt extractor but they come off.
 
D. Davaine said:
5-pc-bolt-grip%E2%84%A2-base-set-807.jpg


20 bucks at home depot just make sure u bet living piss out of the socket to make sure ur on it good and tight, extension and 3/8" to 1/2" adaptor and use a breaker bar and hold the extension straight and pull. i have taken alot of shit that i thought i would break the bolt extractor but they come off.
Click to expand...

I have some just like that except they are craftsman. Dunno if that makes any big difference. I even got one to hold on tight, then hit it with an impact hoping the sheer strength would at least break the seal....all i did was get little fragments of metal on my eye...

Problem is because of the way the nut is in there its impossible to get a hammer to it. I tried using an extension and then hammering on that but since its impossible to get it on straight (its always angled), when u hammer it instead of getting the extractor in place it just pops it off...


I tried again last night after more soaking with aerokroil and nothing. At this point the mothefucker is round as hell and who knows when I'll have enough time to work on my car again...maybe I'll try it one last time tonight if not I think im giving up and taking it somewhere. Seriously changing my clutch was harder albeit less frustrating than getting off this one stupid nut:chair:

would be a lot easier with the rack and pinion removed...i considered doing that but looking at all them hoses and tubes I thought better not...last thing I want is to fuck up something else like my powersteering lol
 
The hoses stay in place. There are only two connectors to unscrew to drop the rack. They are on drivers side facing up and toward the side of the car. The lines on. the actual rack and pinion stay on it and drop down attached. It's easier than you think.

It needs to come off for clearance. I'll take some photos and upload in a bit.
 
this is your rack
DSCN0723.jpg


this is the only place you need to disconnect
DSCN0725.jpg


this connects to the power steering pump, its the high pressure power steering line, attached on the bottom is the hardline
DSCN0726.jpg


it goes here
DSCN0727.jpg


standing here, drivers side, so that means front bumper is to the left.....if you couldnt tell
DSCN0721.jpg


lean over and see the other one hardline that is connected to the rack
DSCN0722.jpg




THEN YOUR DONE

these lines stay connected to the rack and come as one
DSCN0728.jpg


---------- Post added at 06:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:46 PM ----------

edit, second to last picture under where i said leaning over.....

you see the steering column piece, its only two bolts, you just loosen them to slide the piece up and off the rack, thats simple. or loosen and pull the rack down...
 
I had problems with this pulling my old KA out. I pulled the engine out, took the mounts off at the block. then i used a sawzall to cut through the rubbery part. there's a steel rod going through it. soon as i got as close to the subframe as i could i used a grinder. i tried a drill, but i was worried about being a little off and drilling through the subframe so i grinded that bitch. it took a couple of hours total but when it fell off i felt pretty good. i just used the mounts off my sr. if you're not really replacing your whole engine then... this would be a last ditch effort. or like chris jackson said... air chisel. but that still might ding up the subframe. go with a grinder.
 
Chris Jackson said:
air chizzle
Click to expand...

interesting....wonder if my compressor's strong enough to use it to snap off the nut and bolt. I thought about an air cut off or air grinder with disc but there's so little space to work with...but air chisel might just fit

crayZwhiteboy said:
The hoses stay in place. There are only two connectors to unscrew to drop the rack. They are on drivers side facing up and toward the side of the car. The lines on. the actual rack and pinion stay on it and drop down attached. It's easier than you think.

It needs to come off for clearance. I'll take some photos and upload in a bit.
Click to expand...

awesome thanks for those pics....when those lines are removed does air get into the system or something? never heard about bleeding pwsteering but I wanna make sure. Also is it possible to maneuver the rack to take it off without having to remove tie rods? fuck if not might just have to go ahead and change my inner tie rods/boots while im at it. Only concern is time thats why I thought just taking it to a shop. Time is worth gold

Labor day is over so its back to work/classesl. I put everything back together for now, will try to work on the car again next weekend if time allows.... Im just so pissed I kinda want to do this myself just to show that nut who's the boss

thanks for the help
 
I'm dehydrated, tired, and suffering from sleep deprivation so excuse my misunderstanding. But I think the op is trying to get his engine out.....meaning the engine is still in the car.....so no a grinder is useless.....a dremel maybe but his best bet is to drill it out from the bottom.
 
imSUPERjon said:
I had problems with this pulling my old KA out. I pulled the engine out, took the mounts off at the block. then i used a sawzall to cut through the rubbery part. there's a steel rod going through it. soon as i got as close to the subframe as i could i used a grinder. i tried a drill, but i was worried about being a little off and drilling through the subframe so i grinded that bitch. it took a couple of hours total but when it fell off i felt pretty good. i just used the mounts off my sr. if you're not really replacing your whole engine then... this would be a last ditch effort. or like chris jackson said... air chisel. but that still might ding up the subframe. go with a grinder.
Click to expand...


shit...my problem is time that sounds like a mission lol. cutting that mofo off would feel sooo damn good though
 
Ah, yea you need to take off the tie rods from the wheel. The whole removal shouldn't take more than 10 min.
As far as air getting into lines yes it will....is there anything wrong with that....no
Once your done. Put everything back. Fill power steering up. With car off rotate steering wheel all the way left then all the way right. Refill fluid. Turn car on. Repeat steering wheel back and forth till you don't see bubbles in fluid. Fill to full. Put cap back on.

Pm me your location. A local shop charges $330 to change motor mounts. I've gotten help from ppl I don't know for the price of a few beers. I'll be happy to return the favor to someone else in need. But gatorade is my drug of choice
 
crayZwhiteboy said:
Pm me your location. A local shop charges $330 to change motor mounts. I've gotten help from ppl I don't know for the price of a few beers. I'll be happy to return the favor to someone else in need. But gatorade is my drug of choice
Click to expand...


holy shit fuck that!!!! thats so damn expensive.
Ima try to ask a shop how much they charge just to take out that 1 nut...if its within reason I might have them do it if not then I guess I'll be repeating this whole process next weekend or something.
Thanks for the offer man I'll let ya know in case I end up doing it myself
 
just air chissel the shit off no drilling or clerance bullshit sometimes you need to use man tools to do bitch jobs
 
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