Help: SR20DET Build-up!!!

BiG MiKE

BiG MiKE

Driver
So I just bought another redtop engine and I was thinking or actually planning on building for 400hp or more need some or advice on Parts, where to buy, brand, good setups/combinations, or any useful info... So far I'm thinking of doing Pistons, rods, gaskets(all), pulleys, valves, springs, etc.... and anything else I can think of w/o breakin the pockets((yeah right))... I'd Like to run the GT2871r Turbo with this setup because of its Rep and mounting location... Any info or suggestions would be greatly appreciated... Vendors feel free to post prices on some products :D thnx fer looking... ill be posting pics and a list of parts as I go...
 
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Build head, keep bottom end stock, metal HG, and a good tune. Should last years. If you do events, build a spare block on the side.

Oh and go topmount. Forget all about bottom mount turbos.
 
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JE Pistons and eagle rods are gonna be good enough and safe for the hp level you want. Headgasket, ARP head studs. GT2871R is a good turbo get the .86 A/R though, its good for up to 400hp which is where you said you wanted to be. Bottom mount is a bitch like dori said, even though your stock lines line up i would suggest steel braided. Anyways if you want a good setup with the gt28 you ill tell you the exact setup i had before i sold my car, it was somewhere near the 400 mark or maybe there.

GT2871R .86 A/R
HKS STEP 1 CAMS
FMIC
ENTHAPY ROM TUNED ECU (RECOMMEND GOING THIS WAY)
300ZX MAF
EAGLE RODS
JE 40 OVER PISTONS
COMECTIC HEADGASKET
3" DUMP PIPE/DOWNPIPE
HKS SSQ BOV
 
for the amount your gonna spend on a SR and build it up, you could get a LS1 and destroy 400hp SR's. It'll be as if they stood still. And if you install a cam and headers you'll be over 400whp.
 
pumaking said:
for the amount your gonna spend on a SR and build it up, you could get a LS1 and destroy 400hp SR's. It'll be as if they stood still. And if you install a cam and headers you'll be over 400whp.
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if i wanted LS1 id go chevy... and rock a rebel flag... :D theres plenty of wayz to get more power from different swaps but I already have an sr wired and running id like to just pop in this other one not fab up an entire car trying to drop some ridiculous (Sp.?) swap

dori dori said:
Build head, keep bottom end stock, metal HG, and a good tune. Should last years. If you do events, build a spare block on the side.

Oh and go topmount. Forget all about bottom mount turbos.
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I bought a parts motor as u can see from the pics below... and it doesnt seem to be in the greatest shape so im not going to drop loads of money and not build the block and have it take a shyt on me down the road.

Turb0wned said:
JE Pistons and eagle rods are gonna be good enough and safe for the hp level you want. Headgasket, ARP head studs. GT2871R is a good turbo get the .86 A/R though, its good for up to 400hp which is where you said you wanted to be. Bottom mount is a bitch like dori said, even though your stock lines line up i would suggest steel braided. Anyways if you want a good setup with the gt28 you ill tell you the exact setup i had before i sold my car, it was somewhere near the 400 mark or maybe there.

GT2871R .86 A/R
HKS STEP 1 CAMS
FMIC
ENTHAPY ROM TUNED ECU (RECOMMEND GOING THIS WAY)
300ZX MAF
EAGLE RODS
JE 40 OVER PISTONS
COMECTIC HEADGASKET
3" DUMP PIPE/DOWNPIPE
HKS SSQ BOV
Click to expand...
Thnx for the input... great info.. i'd like to (if possible) stick to a bottom mount and avoid redoing my exhaust, hot pipe, intake... etc... but I am open to suggestions. Top mount does sound like a WHOLE lot easier to service and what not... thnx

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not the cleanest engine around but fer 500 buxx it'll be a great start for the build up
 
BiG MiKE said:
if i wanted LS1 id go chevy... and rock a rebel flag... :D theres plenty of wayz to get more power from different swaps but I already have an sr wired and running id like to just pop in this other one not fab up an entire car trying to drop some ridiculous (Sp.?) swap
Click to expand...

I see your one of those people who frown apon performance because its not the same manufacture. I dont see how you'll be fabbing up a new car. You can make your own motor mount bracket or go Hinson kit. Theirs only 3 parts, motor mount brackets, tranny mount bracket, and driveshaft, theirs no fabbing up a new car. Yes their are ways to get power from different swaps but with the LS1 you get Torque, weighs 20 lbs less than a SR20, 300-350WHP yes thats Wheel Horesepower, and from what I heard Wiring is about 5 wires much easier than SR, you also gain better handling characteristics than a SR powered S13-4.
 
pumaking said:
I see your one of those people who frown apon performance because its not the same manufacture. I dont see how you'll be fabbing up a new car. You can make your own motor mount bracket or go Hinson kit. Theirs only 3 parts, motor mount brackets, tranny mount bracket, and driveshaft, theirs no fabbing up a new car. Yes their are ways to get power from different swaps but with the LS1 you get Torque, weighs 20 lbs less than a SR20, 300-350WHP yes thats Wheel Horesepower, and from what I heard Wiring is about 5 wires much easier than SR, you also gain better handling characteristics than a SR powered S13-4.
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HI first of all if it takes him over $5000 to build and SR he is retarded. I know Mike is not retarded so on to my next point.

Have you priced out LSx motors? LS1 start at about $700 and go up. That is motor alone. 6 Speed transmission starts at $1500.

Then you need:
Motor mounts
Tranny mount
-------------------$867.50 -$1,213.30
Drive Shaft
-------------------$285 - $435
Wiring Kit
Radiator Kit
-------------------$585
Fuel Line Kit
Clutch Master Cylinder
-------------------$79.00
Clutch Hydro Line
-------------------$83.50
Wiring Mod
-------------------$425.00 +$XX.XX for a core
Speedo Correction
-------------------$80.00
ECU Reprog
-------------------$185.00
Headers
-------------------$835.00
______________________________
-------------------$3920.3

That is $3920.80 PLUS
Price for:
Motor, Transmission, MAF, Wire Harness, Shipping and Maybe TAX


NEXT. MOTOR vs MOTOR the LS1 is lighter. Then tray slapping on a tranny. Good Luck witht he LS1 being lighter then.

My Final point: HE NEVER BASHED YOUR IDEA. He simply stated he already has a motor to build. The motor he has has killer potential with out spending $5000+. Why dont you do the swap if you are so excited in the pants about it? I thought about it until I spoke with Hinson about it. Then I considered the better idea...LT1. Still expensive but HALF of what a LS1 Sap would cost. But still not at kick ass as a 2.0L V8 Eater :bigthumbu :laugh: :eek: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

 
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That motor was not bad at all for $ 500... Well i think you have gotten enough suggestions already soo all i gotta say is good luck with the build and keep those pictures updated...
 
thnx fer the input but id like to stick with an SR im sure an LS1 is easily installed using the right parts but i like the look and feel of my sr and I plan on sticking to it. :D

z4k said:



HI first of all if it takes him over $5000 to build and SR he is retarded. I know Mike is not retarded so on to my next point.

Have you priced out LSx motors? LS1 start at about $700 and go up. That is motor alone. 6 Speed transmission starts at $1500.

Then you need:
Motor mounts
Tranny mount
-------------------$867.50 -$1,213.30
Drive Shaft
-------------------$285 - $435
Wiring Kit
Radiator Kit
-------------------$585
Fuel Line Kit
Clutch Master Cylinder
-------------------$79.00
Clutch Hydro Line
-------------------$83.50
Wiring Mod
-------------------$425.00 +$XX.XX for a core
Speedo Correction
-------------------$80.00
ECU Reprog
-------------------$185.00
Headers
-------------------$835.00
______________________________
-------------------$3920.3

That is $3920.80 PLUS
Price for:
Motor, Transmission, MAF, Wire Harness, Shipping and Maybe TAX


NEXT. MOTOR vs MOTOR the LS1 is lighter. Then tray slapping on a tranny. Good Luck witht he LS1 being lighter then.

My Final point: HE NEVER BASHED YOUR IDEA. He simply stated he already has a motor to build. The motor he has has killer potential with out spending $5000+. Why dont you do the swap if you are so excited in the pants about it? I thought about it until I spoke with Hinson about it. Then I considered the better idea...LT1. Still expensive but HALF of what a LS1 Sap would cost. But still not at kick ass as a 2.0L V8 Eater :bigthumbu :laugh: :eek: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

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...wow... very well put and the info to back it up :D

JDM180 said:
That motor was not bad at all for $ 500... Well i think you have gotten enough suggestions already soo all i gotta say is good luck with the build and keep those pictures updated...
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im still very open to suggestions nothing is written in stone yet... and yeah im def. gonnna post progress pics...
 
Good luck on your build man, we got to chill again sometime. I can't wait to be blinded by all the smoke you'll produce :bigthumbu .
 
Well if you're building your block, spend a couple hundred extra dollars on good rods or just keep stock rods.
 
any recommendations on brand? specs? im planning on doing pistons and rods... if i can get my hands on a crankshaft for a good price i may upgrade that too
 
I have heard alot of good feedback about CP pistons and Eagle Rods combination... Also if you are willing to go all out you can spend a little more money and get the HKS 2.2 stocker kit... SR22det... Sweet...
 
Pauter rods with cp or wiseco pistons. 87mm bore (or just 86.5 if you're worried - the block can handle it without sleeving though), stock compression. Send it to XAT to have the bottom end work done. You will have zero problems.

Apexi or Power Enterprise HG (although I've been on a cometic for quite some time).

HKS 264/272 step 2's, crower ti retainers, and comp valve springs or peak performance double valve springs with a MBV shimmed head.

Stock exhaust manifold with external wastegate welded on - VITAL.

New water pump, oil pump, seals and gaskets.

Greddy intake manifold and profab gasket.
 
dori dori said:
Pauter rods with cp or wiseco pistons. 87mm bore (or just 86.5 if you're worried - the block can handle it without sleeving though), stock compression. Send it to XAT to have the bottom end work done. You will have zero problems.

Apexi or Power Enterprise HG (although I've been on a cometic for quite some time).

HKS 264/272 step 2's, crower ti retainers, and comp valve springs or peak performance double valve springs with a MBV shimmed head.

Stock exhaust manifold with external wastegate welded on - VITAL.

New water pump, oil pump, seals and gaskets.

Greddy intake manifold and profab gasket.
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Why the OEM Exhaust manifold? Please give support.

Also the Profab spacer. Does it leave enough threads to tighten properly?
 
I run the profab spacer - the intake mani threaded fine. The only problem is that the ports didn't match the head. After running the car for a little bit, I took it off and cut it just below the burn marks to match the head.

As for the OEM manifold, aftermarket bottom mounts make such insignificant hp gains and are always cracking/breaking/leaking/ect. The money's better spent on welding an ext gate on the OE manifold. You'll get better spool, better response, and more power...plus the sound scares children and adults alike. ;)
 
JDM180 said:
I have heard alot of good feedback about CP pistons and Eagle Rods combination... Also if you are willing to go all out you can spend a little more money and get the HKS 2.2 stocker kit... SR22det... Sweet...
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2.2L was my first idea but then I saw the price of the kit alone... figured i'd just go with pistons, rods, etc... 2.0 and have $$$ for other upgrades...

so ive decided im goin top mount turbo... some kinda engine management to eliminate MAFS and for tunning purposes... but heres a quote i got from a guy for parts lemme know what u guys think about price/brand/quality... Thanks ((still shopping around))

Greddy Rocker Arm Stopper $57.00
Toda Cam Shafts Intake/Exahust 264/264 $415.00
Toda Adjustable Cam Gear Pulleys $290.00
Brian Crower Titanium Retainers/Chromolly Stiffer Valve Springs $209.00
Greddy 1.2mm Metal Head Gasket $187.00
ARP Head Studs $119.00
CP Forged Pistons/Rings/Pin 8.5:1 Compression $478.00
Brian Crower H-Bean Rods/ARP Rod Bolts $320.00
ARP Main Studs $102.00
Tomei 550cc Injectors $495
Timming Chain $75.00
Timming Chain Guides $90.00
S15 Metal Exahust Manifold Gasket $39.00
Nissan SR Overhaul Gasket Kit $219.00
Nissan Factory Oil Pick Up Tube $40.00
Nissan Factory Oil Pump $210.00
Nissan Factory Water Pump $59.00
Greddy Large Oil Pan $315.00
Greddy Intake Manifold $539.00
NGK Iridium Heat Range 8 Spark Plugs $37.00
Earls Stainless Steel Braided Turbo Lines Kit $135.00
 
If you go 87mm you'll be 2.05ltr ;)

BiG MiKE said:
Greddy Rocker Arm Stopper $57.00
Toda Cam Shafts Intake/Exahust 264/264 $415.00
Toda Adjustable Cam Gear Pulleys $290.00
Brian Crower Titanium Retainers/Chromolly Stiffer Valve Springs $209.00
Greddy 1.2mm Metal Head Gasket $187.00
ARP Head Studs $119.00
CP Forged Pistons/Rings/Pin 8.5:1 Compression $478.00
Brian Crower H-Bean Rods/ARP Rod Bolts $320.00
ARP Main Studs $102.00
Tomei 550cc Injectors $495
Timming Chain $75.00
Timming Chain Guides $90.00
S15 Metal Exahust Manifold Gasket $39.00
Nissan SR Overhaul Gasket Kit $219.00
Nissan Factory Oil Pick Up Tube $40.00
Nissan Factory Oil Pump $210.00
Nissan Factory Water Pump $59.00
Greddy Large Oil Pan $315.00
Greddy Intake Manifold $539.00
NGK Iridium Heat Range 8 Spark Plugs $37.00
Earls Stainless Steel Braided Turbo Lines Kit $135.00
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RAS are pretty pointless.

Brian Crower parts are shit - complete shit.

Greddy HG is the WORST. Search around Freshalloy for blown Greddy headgasket.

550's are too small for 400whp.

Eearls lines won't work if you go topmount.

Eliminating your MAF for tuning is a mistake IMO unless you are ready for the commitment of a standalone/map.

Oh and go with a longer duration exhaust cam especially if you're going topmount.
 
good feedback... I was told Crower was pretty good... and what would u have in mind for cams? gears? why longer duration for topmount?
 
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