Help Sr Issue!!

mongooze

Driver
Alrighty, Hey guys I'm harvey, I just recently acquired an s13 hatch w an sr20det. This was my friends old car and I see now why he sold it lol.

Anyone the car has an intermittent spitting/sputtering/breaking up. Problem. now we don't really know what happened but it started to spit more and more as time went on, I really wasn't around the car much when he had it but this what I know.

It has a brand new wiring harness in it, 1 1/2 yr old rebuilt t25, fmic, ebay ssqv bov, everything else is stooock.

When I got the car the car was sputtering hard under boost, approx 5lbs is would just die out and any throttle it would just spit. I looked at the plugs they were waaaayyy off, some junk 5 heat range, I put some used greddy 7's I pulled off a jdm s14 sr20 long block I had at work, put em in with a .035 gap. same problem, talked to someone they told me before EVO coils go bad they have the syptom he told me to try changing the gap to .025.
Did that and the car ran greeaaaaaaat, full stock boost all the way to 7500rpm, few days later on the 1/2 way to work (40 min commute) it stared to spit under cruise soo bad it wouldnt go at all, any time I gave it throttle it just wouldnt go. I pull over, check codes I find a TPS code. Removed B+ for a couple minutes then started up ran fine, this repeated itself every 10 minutes. Checked the TPS the #'s were all off from spec, looked at the plugs they were red, yes red and white. got new plugs, gapped em no change. Ran okay but still spat under boost. also it would die out like before when I had to pull over but a trick i found is that if I turn the car off and then turn it back on it goes away immediatly. wtf?

Got a new TPS, checked #'s. It's okay. put it on same issue for about a week. Only now, it's intermittent, it will sometimes fix itself and run fine...not really fine it'll still break up but very slightly, but it will go to redline full throttle. Some one else told me to try A fuel pump, I threw a walbro in there, no change. Again I tried another person, they were looking at the suction pipe and suggested it may be collapsing so I took it out and put a 90 degree alum pipe in it and while I was there I noticed the air filter was dirty so I changed it with a new clean one, and guess what. IT RAN GREAT, incredible. but now it wouldnt idle, really rough. I looked at the plugs, black. now its running rich??, this was in the morning and I parked it while I worked, then on the way home about 3/4 it started todie out like before.

I am out of ideas. I'm wondering if anyone has had a similar issue or has any insight.

this is whats been done so far so Im assuming we can eliminate this

Harness
Spark plugs/Gap
Fuel pump (walbro)
TPS
FPR
fuel psi ok. 40ish no change when spittin.

any help appreciated, im pulling my hair out with this, it's prolly something stupid and i'm overlooking like always.

thanks.
 
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the walboro is probbobly one of the reasons its running richer now than before. Since they are more powerfull than the stock pumps
 
What are plugs gaped to now and what heat range and what boost? Walbro will move fuel pressure to around 40psi which will be to rich with out a adjustable fuel pressure regulator moving it back down to stock psi which is where it needs to be.
 
the walboro is probbobly one of the reasons its running richer now than before. Since they are more powerfull than the stock pumps

no because i looked at the plugs again and they arn't black.

sorry forgot to mention that

What are plugs gaped to now and what heat range and what boost? Walbro will move fuel pressure to around 40psi which will be to rich with out a adjustable fuel pressure regulator moving it back down to stock psi which is where it needs to be.

.025, bkr7eix, stock 10ish.

the only three things i can think of are
coil packs
ignitor
or maybe some bad grounds?

i checked the resistance to the coils, all the numbers matched. wouldn't an ignitor be an on/off issue? either it works or it dosn't? I know the ignitors been changed before like over a year back cause it wouldn't start.

Know of any major/hidden grounds


remember this is intermittent, it mostly runs bad BUT it will fix itself for a little while.

one more thing, I was cruising and with my foot at cruise with no change in throttle it would sputter for a second then drive fine slight stutter and it would repeat that for about a minute, then go back to normal.
 
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i checked the resistance to the coils, all the numbers matched. wouldn't an ignitor be an on/off issue? either it works or it dosn't? I know the ignitors been changed before like over a year back cause it wouldn't start.

Know of any major/hidden grounds

another thing i just thought of
are the injectors working as they should?
my friends car had a problem just like this but with a ka

i took the fuel rail off and sat it on the valve cover and left everything connected and turned it over
on injector #1 it was dripping #2 was hardly spraying at all

i replaced them and it ran perfect
 
should be .030 gap.

You could have bad coilpacks. Redtops are getting old so I would not be surprised.

You might also want to check for leaks in the i/c piping/core/bov too.

oh and duh timing too. checked it?
 
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another thing i just thought of
are the injectors working as they should?
my friends car had a problem just like this but with a ka

i took the fuel rail off and sat it on the valve cover and left everything connected and turned it over
on injector #1 it was dripping #2 was hardly spraying at all

i replaced them and it ran perfect

yea injectors volume. that is on the list.
 
i'm with billfisher... that sounds like a MAF to me. The dirty air filter could've pelted dirt into the MAF sensor causing damage and making it having intermittent readings, so the car corrects for it. I doubt that's your only problem but it could be a start.
 
heat range 7 on the plugs? what mods are done? stock turbo injectors and boost? if so go to 6's, if higher boost fuck with the timing.

my old sr always had to have the timing turned up more than stock, i think 21°, to ever run right.
 
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