Getting a flush look with XXR 962.

Vas said:
i run 18x9.5 +35 all around with 30mm front spacers and 50mm rear spacers and 25mm front fenders with 50mm rear fenders.

225/45/18s


idk if that helps, but yeah
Click to expand...

Effectively +5 and -15 then?

Pardon the newbness
 
actually no running spacers and offset wheels is NOT the same, and will cause pre-mature wheel bearing failure.

An offset wheel doesnt use a 50mm thick hub, it uses a normal disk hub with the barrel offset. Which means the weight of the rim directly on the hub, and the barrel of the wheel is what is extended.

With spacers, it pushes the mass outward and makes the weight ride on the hub in a different aspect.

do people get away with it every day? Yes
does that mean it doesnt cause ill affects? no
 
IThaJokaI said:
actually no running spacers and offset wheels is NOT the same, and will cause pre-mature wheel bearing failure.

An offset wheel doesnt use a 50mm thick hub, it uses a normal disk hub with the barrel offset. Which means the weight of the rim directly on the hub, and the barrel of the wheel is what is extended.

With spacers, it pushes the mass outward and makes the weight ride on the hub in a different aspect.

do people get away with it every day? Yes
does that mean it doesnt cause ill affects? no
Click to expand...

no.

its about the contact of the wheel to the road, not the weight on the hub. that difference has such a small force arm at that spot its insignificant. if it was that important, then we would have a discussion about heavy wheels are bad for wheel bearings (as opposed to $$$$ light wheels). which is never argued. the weight is about ease to speed up or slow down the rotation of it.

from another forum:

Basic facts.

How do we determine the moment on the wheel bearing? Simple math.

C = Moment
B = Load
A= Distance

AxB=C

Now, we can safely say some things are known non variables.

The load is known. The load is the weight of the vehicle.
So, B is always the same.

Now A (distance) is where I believe all the confusion is.
How do we determine the distance, or length of the lever arm?

One end of the lever arm is the pivot. This would be the wheel bearing because that is what we are trying to determine the moment on. This is a fixed point on the vehicle and will not change.
Now where we apply the force to the other end of the lever arm will determine the length of the lever arm.
Notice I said where we apply the force. That is very important. I will try to explain.
Let's say you have a 10 foot pry bar and a 1 foot pry bar. If you apply force at a distance of 1 foot, and only one foot from the pivot point, the effective moment at the pivot point will be the same using either pry bar. I don't care if one pry bar is 100 feet long. If you apply force at the same distance from the pivot point using either pry bar. The effective moment will be the same using either bar.
Let's apply the above to the suspension of our car.
Where is the force applied to the lever arm on our cars?
The force is applied to the lever arm at the place where the tire contacts the ground. Not where the hub attaches to the rim, or where the stud attaches to the hub, or where the moon is in relationship to the sun. Nothing determines where the force is applied to the lever arm except where the tire contact the ground. Period.
Now, on to my original point. Let say you want to offset your tire 10 inches from the wheel bearing.
You can use a rim with 0 offset and a 10 inch spacer. OR you could use a rim with a 10 inch offset and no spacer..
Either setup will put the place where the tire contacts the ground in the exact same place.
In both scenarios, A is the same.

So if A is the same, and B is the same. Then C will always have the same answer.
The moment on the wheel bearing is always the same.
 
But in relationship from the hub to the disk of the wheel, is extended the 10,15,25,76mm or what ever. The leverage/force may be the same, but that's not the argument. Its the fact that again, the wheel disk is 76mm away from the wheel bearing.
 
boxmod said:
no.

its about the contact of the wheel to the road, not the weight on the hub. that difference has such a small force arm at that spot its insignificant. if it was that important, then we would have a discussion about heavy wheels are bad for wheel bearings (as opposed to $$$$ light wheels). which is never argued. the weight is about ease to speed up or slow down the rotation of it.

from another forum:

Basic facts.

How do we determine the moment on the wheel bearing? Simple math.

C = Moment
B = Load
A= Distance

AxB=C

Now, we can safely say some things are known non variables.

The load is known. The load is the weight of the vehicle.
So, B is always the same.

Now A (distance) is where I believe all the confusion is.
How do we determine the distance, or length of the lever arm?

One end of the lever arm is the pivot. This would be the wheel bearing because that is what we are trying to determine the moment on. This is a fixed point on the vehicle and will not change.
Now where we apply the force to the other end of the lever arm will determine the length of the lever arm.
Notice I said where we apply the force. That is very important. I will try to explain.
Let's say you have a 10 foot pry bar and a 1 foot pry bar. If you apply force at a distance of 1 foot, and only one foot from the pivot point, the effective moment at the pivot point will be the same using either pry bar. I don't care if one pry bar is 100 feet long. If you apply force at the same distance from the pivot point using either pry bar. The effective moment will be the same using either bar.
Let's apply the above to the suspension of our car.
Where is the force applied to the lever arm on our cars?
The force is applied to the lever arm at the place where the tire contacts the ground. Not where the hub attaches to the rim, or where the stud attaches to the hub, or where the moon is in relationship to the sun. Nothing determines where the force is applied to the lever arm except where the tire contact the ground. Period.
Now, on to my original point. Let say you want to offset your tire 10 inches from the wheel bearing.
You can use a rim with 0 offset and a 10 inch spacer. OR you could use a rim with a 10 inch offset and no spacer..
Either setup will put the place where the tire contacts the ground in the exact same place.
In both scenarios, A is the same.

So if A is the same, and B is the same. Then C will always have the same answer.
The moment on the wheel bearing is always the same.
Click to expand...

Awesome!! Thats exactly what I was thinking but wasn't sure. I've been trying to find hubcentric spacers in a 40mm or 50mm, but am having trouble. Who makes the ones you run Jason?
 
I run m2tuning.com ones and you can order hubcentric center add-Ons but they self center from the tapered edge of the lug holes. I don't have and center piece and never had an issue.
 
IThaJokaI said:
But in relationship from the hub to the disk of the wheel, is extended the 10,15,25,76mm or what ever. The leverage/force may be the same, but that's not the argument. Its the fact that again, the wheel disk is 76mm away from the wheel bearing.
Click to expand...

So your talking about where the spokes of the wheel are in relation to the hub? Deep dish, or concave or no lip are all different distances from the hub depending On the style. I can't find any evidence that it really has a worse/better effect on bearings. Same width and same resulting offset is same. It is worse for wheel bearings for either, but neither method is worse really.
 
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