future ka-t help

rb25 weighs more then a ka not to mention you are putting more weight over the front axle. Not a good idea. rb26 or bust if you want a 6 cylinder nissan engine. If you are considering a 6 cylinder you might want to investigate a 1jz.

So i guessed you are more focused on response then all out power (autox \ drift). Keep a 4 cylinder in there and add a turbo. You will keep the overall weight down and have the power you want.

Ya know it would be real easy to get a s13 blacktop, put a t28 turbo on there w\ a 3in exhaust and a FMIC with a walbro + fpr and get 275whp all day everyday, alot more reliable then a ka-t. Keep in mind an sr20 is a very viable option.
 
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ud really have to define easy, im really just getting into the whole "tuning aspec" - just tryn to get out there and learn.. but anyways wouldnt it cost quite a bit for an sr..say 1700 or so? plus im pretty incapable of swapping it myself so id have to pay a shop to do it....reliability is also something i would really prefer. I had a friend who installed a turbo in his ka but it blew a few weeks later... so im not sure if its really something he did wrong or if thats just usual.

sr20 does sound nice tho.
 
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AznRasta said:
ud really have to define easy, im really just getting into the whole "tuning aspec" - just tryn to get out there and learn.. but anyways wouldnt it cost quite a bit for an sr..say 1700 or so? plus im pretty incapable of swapping it myself so id have to pay a shop to do it....reliability is also something i would really prefer. I had a friend who installed a turbo in his ka but it blew a few weeks later... so im not sure if its really something he did wrong or if thats just usual.
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I can not speak about what might have happened to your friend. I do not know how much a engine set is going to cost for an sr. It depends who you get it from. TurbOwned was doing sr swaps for an affordable cost I dont know if he is still doing that though.

When i say easy i mean, You swap in the sr get it running. Then bolt on the 3in exhaust, no big deal, the fmic should be installed with the swap. Install the walbro fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator. Add fuel pressure if you start to run lean when you turn the boost up to 15-17psi on the dyno. Keep your oil changed and you can have 275whp for years.

If you do a cost break down this will not cost any more then a good ka-t install. And you get to drive a nissan tuned sr20 with an engine built for boost that will last alot longer then the ka-t.

no fucking around with trying to piggyback tune a Naturally asperated Ka ecu, no fucking around with 9.5 compression and a turbocharger. no fucking around with sketchy turbo lines if you dont do it right. no fucking around with an engine that has internals that were designed for a naturally aspirated engine.

BTW, walbro and fmic is standard when you install an sr. just when you turn the boost up over 14psi I would put it on a dyno to check the air fuel ratios to be safe. If you start to run slightly lean, turn up the fuel pressure via your adjustable fuel pressure regulator to richen it up a bit. Make sure everything is safe and drive it.
 
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well it sounds like an sr would realy be the right thing for me then, ill look more into getting that instead. thanks a bunch for the help! :bigthumbu
 
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