heyyy.. so i have a 92 240... the ka24de has about 70k miles on it (car is pretty much stock) and i wanna turbo it in about 6 months. any body have any tips on what i should do to prepare it? would i need a rebuild kit before installing the turbo or would it hold out on the stock internals? I also hear that people swap in like a 98 ka before doing the swap, im not totally sure at all what i need to do before i can turbo it. any help would be very much appreciated! thanky :bigthumbu
future ka-t help
- Thread starter AznRasta
- Start date
it depends on your future goals, what do you plan on doing with the car? drifting? drag? autox? road race? or just something with a little more nuts for the daily commute.
how much power do you want to make? Do you have any tolerance for turbo lag?
how much power do you want to make? Do you have any tolerance for turbo lag?
..the guy above yur post has had his ka-t running for sum time now....he knows his stuffdrftns14 said:
Becker-Racing
Driver
i just bought a spare ka just for this reason....but yea i gotta 97 to put in my 91 coupe
drftns14 said:
I can not believe you said that. I drove my car to orlando 3 times, punta gorda 3x, naples 4x, and to ocala. Driven the shit out of my car at the events and drove them home. Not to mention 100's of nights of street drifting and 30+ runs at moroso. I lost compression because I squished the ring lands down on the rings, not because the piston cracked or i tossed a rod. The material of the pistons lost their strength fatigued and locked the rings in place until they wore enough clearance to give me significant blow by. I drove my car home from the event where I figured out something went wrong. that engine had 100,000 miles on it before I turbocharged it. shut the fuck up. Show me numerous other naturally aspirated engines that are using factory internals that were making 225% power with 122k on the clock before they kicked the can.
shut the fuck up.
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wow! put a tampoon in it your vagina is leaking every where, if you know so much then you would have built the ka up before you boosted it!! it still took a shit on you no matter what ya said, and who turbos a motor only to last 22,000miles? so ya still cant really say you know alot when your own motors kick the can!!! i could careless if you went to 1 milloin events and beat the shit out of your car, you still only made 22k on a boosted motor and it went, plain and simple just like your sig states:22k=broken ring lands!!!!! that doesnt sound very promissing or "knowing Your Stuff" now does it, your just upset that someone is picking on you and its not fair!!! well go cry to mommy maybe she will teach you one or two things about boosting stock motors: they blow just like her! so i think you need to buy some books, due some research and maybe attend school for this shit but until you accually know something, and just maybe get some ase certification on this shit= you still dont know crap.
P.S. GOOD LUCK ON THE ENGINE REBUILD!!!!
P.S. GOOD LUCK ON THE ENGINE REBUILD!!!!
How many cars have you turbocharged, installed a standalone engine management system and tuned? I know ill be driving this Sunday at the competition, so I must know a little more then you to have my car running and prepared. Even if that means keeping your car off the road until the day of the event.
Its racing, shit is going to break, fix it and get back to what you love doing.
Dont question my intelligence by telling me the smarter option was totally out of the budget at the time. Considering I am self taught, experimenting with a disposable engine was a little smarter then learning on an expensive racing engine.
When ever the thread starter replies to my first post ill answer any questions and give any advice I can.
Its racing, shit is going to break, fix it and get back to what you love doing.
Dont question my intelligence by telling me the smarter option was totally out of the budget at the time. Considering I am self taught, experimenting with a disposable engine was a little smarter then learning on an expensive racing engine.
When ever the thread starter replies to my first post ill answer any questions and give any advice I can.
HellaSFLDan
Driver
yea i think that until you build a motor or boost your stock one for more miles and treat it the same way that you will be banned from the technical section from giving advice on something youve only read about.
if you have any problem with that, you can "go cry to your mommy". :laugh:
if you have any problem with that, you can "go cry to your mommy". :laugh:
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damn dan, thats fuked up!! i have buit and boosted stock and bulletproof motors ka/sr and im ase certified in engine repair and engine performance. i do know what im talking about and doing. i was just trying to prove a point and have a little fun doing it. yall nukkas need to relax and have some fucking fun.
HellaSFLDan
Driver
drftns14 said:
pictures.. dyno sheets.. i dont go by the whole he say she say stories. where are they now? ase certified doesnt mean anything, im ase certified, all that means is i can by-law legally open a mechanic shop and make over 14$ hr starting at other shops
i have built about 5 ka-t 4 with stock internals and 1 with weisco pistons/rods/cometic headgasket. made 350 have a dyno sheet but dont know how to post pics on fourm. and right now in my s14 i got a fully built sr20det soon tobe running of a power fc but for now its z32 and 550cc with a topmount t4 turbo setup. no chance to dyno yet but shooting for 400hp. so yes i know what im doing, im not a poser like others on this fourm. i do all my own work and learned and taught myself. and if you want a job in this industry ase certification means alot, its how you represent yourself and your skills to others.
HellaSFLDan
Driver
drftns14 said:
how many ASE's do you have? and what in?
where are all these KA-Ts now? Im sure you have not beat on them bouncing off rev limiter for 22k miles
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where in the hell is the thread starter?
If you will be content with 275whp all day every day then a built engine is not really warranted providing you have a good ka to start with. If you do not know the exact mileage or how beat up the engine is, I suggest you replace the main and rod bearings, re-hone the cylinders and install new rings. Eventually you will get used to the power and after 6-8 months you will want to build an engine with forged internals on the side.
Experianced tips \ tricks:
1. Construct an oil return line from stainless steel braided hose using either -10 \ -12 AN fittings. (IF you dont know, read about constructing stainless hose, read AEROQUIP or EARLS Supply for information
2. A: If using a garrett, turbonetics, precision journal bearing turbo, run a -3 oil feed line. If you do not use -3 line you must use a 1\8th restrictor.
B: If using a turbocharger with a ball bearing center section you have to have a 1\16th restrictor or you will blow out the seals. Ball bearing center sections require less oil.
-3 is common hardware, just try to run -3 everywhere and restrict the flow for ball bearing turbochargers.
3. www.tunertoys.com has a oil T that has the metric 1\8 thread pitch that goes into your ka block and it splits it to 1\8th standard threads so you can thread your stainless line in easy with out extra adapters.
4. If you are building your own manifold, be sure to slot the head flange in between the runners and resurface\ sand flat the head flange mating surface.
5. A 1987 Ford Thunder Bird used a t3 turbine housing, any advanced or discount autoparts will be able to get you that t3 flanged turbine inlet gasket next day.
6. Use metal locking nuts on your down pipe studs if you plan on studding the turbine housing.
7. Murry's carrys a heat sleeve that you can use on your clutch hardline if you get clutch pedal fade from your top mount manifold\ turbo \ downpipe. It is made by thermotec and resists radiant heat up to 2000 degrees.
8. Enjuku has a turbine blanket in stock that fits a t3 .63 a\r housing nicely and is quite effective of reducing excessive heat emitted by the turbine housing.
9. Get a tuned ecu, its one of those things that just works well. Just drop the 500 dollars once and dont fuck around with the purchase, installation and tuning of a piggyback controller. Throw down the cash for at least 550cc injectors and a z32 mafs from the start. Add those things to the tune and your engine management will be set for 300whp, (injector restricted)
10. DO NOT USE SR 370CC INJECTORS. They are just too small you will run them at 100% duty cycle at 8-9 psi from a t3 compressor.
Where is the thread starter?
If you will be content with 275whp all day every day then a built engine is not really warranted providing you have a good ka to start with. If you do not know the exact mileage or how beat up the engine is, I suggest you replace the main and rod bearings, re-hone the cylinders and install new rings. Eventually you will get used to the power and after 6-8 months you will want to build an engine with forged internals on the side.
Experianced tips \ tricks:
1. Construct an oil return line from stainless steel braided hose using either -10 \ -12 AN fittings. (IF you dont know, read about constructing stainless hose, read AEROQUIP or EARLS Supply for information
2. A: If using a garrett, turbonetics, precision journal bearing turbo, run a -3 oil feed line. If you do not use -3 line you must use a 1\8th restrictor.
B: If using a turbocharger with a ball bearing center section you have to have a 1\16th restrictor or you will blow out the seals. Ball bearing center sections require less oil.
-3 is common hardware, just try to run -3 everywhere and restrict the flow for ball bearing turbochargers.
3. www.tunertoys.com has a oil T that has the metric 1\8 thread pitch that goes into your ka block and it splits it to 1\8th standard threads so you can thread your stainless line in easy with out extra adapters.
4. If you are building your own manifold, be sure to slot the head flange in between the runners and resurface\ sand flat the head flange mating surface.
5. A 1987 Ford Thunder Bird used a t3 turbine housing, any advanced or discount autoparts will be able to get you that t3 flanged turbine inlet gasket next day.
6. Use metal locking nuts on your down pipe studs if you plan on studding the turbine housing.
7. Murry's carrys a heat sleeve that you can use on your clutch hardline if you get clutch pedal fade from your top mount manifold\ turbo \ downpipe. It is made by thermotec and resists radiant heat up to 2000 degrees.
8. Enjuku has a turbine blanket in stock that fits a t3 .63 a\r housing nicely and is quite effective of reducing excessive heat emitted by the turbine housing.
9. Get a tuned ecu, its one of those things that just works well. Just drop the 500 dollars once and dont fuck around with the purchase, installation and tuning of a piggyback controller. Throw down the cash for at least 550cc injectors and a z32 mafs from the start. Add those things to the tune and your engine management will be set for 300whp, (injector restricted)
10. DO NOT USE SR 370CC INJECTORS. They are just too small you will run them at 100% duty cycle at 8-9 psi from a t3 compressor.
Where is the thread starter?
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yea sry guys, i havnt had access to a pc for a while. but yea the car is for drifting and auto x and i wanted som power to play with, i just dont wanna have the car garaged when event time comes around cuss i blew my little ka (0_o). if things dont work out i was thinking about saving up for a while and doing a rb25 
...maybe
i actually would be quite satisfied with 275whp, my ka has about 80k miles on it and it does run really smooth.... but i couldnt bet my life on its health, wat would you say is a good price for a nice running ka?
...maybei actually would be quite satisfied with 275whp, my ka has about 80k miles on it and it does run really smooth.... but i couldnt bet my life on its health, wat would you say is a good price for a nice running ka?
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