FDC Rules and Regulations.

Sean Love said:
I dont give a damn what your dad says.

My uncle helped invent solid fuel rockets, and lectures at MIT, Penn State and Princeton on physics. He also used to be the lead guy at Bose audio labs. This same guy told me that lean runs cooler, and rich runs hotter.....

The reasons to run coolant are: Anti-freezing properties. Anti-corrosion properties.

The boiling point of water versus coolant has nothing to with the specific heat, thermal capacity and conductiveness of the material.

http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Articles/Cooling/Cooling_Suggestions/

Here's a great except for you:

Only use the amount of antifreeze that your demographic region dictates. Basic chemistry tells us that pure water is the best coolant, period. The specific heat of water is 1.0. This is the common chemistry yardstick that says that it takes 1 BTU to raise 1 pound of water 1° F and is assigned the 1.0 specific heat number. A 50/50 mix of ethylene glycol (the green stuff) has a tested specific heat number of 0.5 and of propylene glycol of 0.3. What this means is that it take twice the amount, in the case of the green stuff (and over three times for the red stuff) of BTUs to raise the same amount of water 1 degree!! This means that pure water will remove double the amount of heat and carry that heat away from the source per unit volume. Now, do the arithmetic and you will find out that the more pure water...the more heat gets taken away! Do not confuse this with the boiling point of the coolant.
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If you want to run straight water and blow your motor go for it but i will never run water for coolant. And there is nothing wrong with my motor its been fully rebuilt everything in my cooling system is brand new. Water boils over its that simple.
 
SAS said:
If you want to run straight water and blow your motor go for it but i will never run water for coolant. And there is nothing wrong with my motor its been fully rebuilt everything in my cooling system is brand new. Water boils over its that simple.
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Maybe its your radiator cap, coolant system requires pressure which will raise the boiling point of water. water boils at lower temperature on top of the mountain than it does near sea level.
Did you also replace your cap and is it the right one for the radiator?
What set up are you running SR20det/ Ka24de / Turbo non turbo, Stock radiator?
Just water will not cause you to over heat, if it does there is something else wrong. You will have to look elsewhere for the reason, it definately is not the fact that you run water alone.

Best coolant would be Methanol, second best is %50 water %50 methanol unfortunately that is now banned in all the racing for obvious reasons.
 
SAS said:
If you want to run straight water and blow your motor go for it but i will never run water for coolant. And there is nothing wrong with my motor its been fully rebuilt everything in my cooling system is brand new. Water boils over its that simple.
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You obviously have zero racing experience. Just about every racing association in existence prohibits the use of coolant. Drag racing, circle track racing, road racing, etc. Go to a NASCAR race and tell all the crew chiefs they're idiots, and they need to run 50-50 mix extended life antifreeze or they're gonna blow engines all day.
 
Ter-Tech said:
Maybe its your radiator cap, coolant system requires pressure which will raise the boiling point of water. water boils at lower temperature on top of the mountain than it does near sea level.
Did you also replace your cap and is it the right one for the radiator?
What set up are you running SR20det/ Ka24de / Turbo non turbo, Stock radiator?
Just water will not cause you to over heat, if it does there is something else wrong. You will have to look elsewhere for the reason, it definately is not the fact that you run water alone.

Best coolant would be Methanol, second best is %50 water %50 methanol unfortunately that is now banned in all the racing for obvious reasons.
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im running a NA 4AGE everything is brand new rad, cap, hoses, water pump, thermostat, over flow tank its all new. Everything is oem toyota parts not cheap crap either.

fc3sbmx said:
You obviously have zero racing experience. Just about every racing association in existence prohibits the use of coolant. Drag racing, circle track racing, road racing, etc. Go to a NASCAR race and tell all the crew chiefs they're idiots, and they need to run 50-50 mix extended life antifreeze or they're gonna blow engines all day.
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really because i drove a jr dragster for 6 years and then went into autocross. Nascars for fags :laugh:
 
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ive bought new parts that have been defective before. and besides, oem wasnt designed for the abuse of drifting. there is too much evidence that you are not correct, stop being a sashole about it and just accept it.

**really i just wanted to coin that word, i am jfwy^^ :laugh:
 
SAS said:
im running a NA 4AGE everything is brand new rad, cap, hoses, water pump, thermostat, over flow tank its all new. Everything is oem toyota parts not cheap crap either.



really because i drove a jr dragster for 6 years and then went into autocross. Nascars for fags :laugh:
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What about the fan/fans original or aftermarket? do you still have the fan shroud?
it might be that the original radiator with the fan/fans isn't enough to keep it cool. So either upgrading the fan/fans or bigger radiator would fix it, but if you use it as a daily it is your choice and adding that stuff isn't cheap either. Specially if you just spend the money to get all new OEM stuff.
The danger is as I said earlier, that running the engine hotter than designed is going to steal power, possibly cause detonation, extra wear on the bearings, wear on the rings and pistons etc..

Anyways what ever your budget allows.
 
boxmod said:
just to be sure, no zipties? before I go change that.
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Zipties will be allowed after you crash, but not before that! So for a temporary repair on the track yes but for a permanent assembly no since it makes it look cheap ass and secondly they are not sponsoring drifting which they should every single driver is legally obligated to get a check for 1000000000000000000000000000 dollars from zipties manufacturer.
 
If you can't fix it with zipties or duct tape, it ain't worth fixing...... unless you can use JB Weld lol......
 
how come sas is wrong almost all the time... how do these backwards theories pop into his head?
 
i always used water in my cars too because i noticed that they ran cooler i never knew why but now i do lol
 
SAS said:
um my dad is a scientist and has a phd and says you are dead wrong....

If you want to run straight water and blow your motor go for it but i will never run water for coolant....
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Lol SAS fails.

SAS said:
really because i drove a jr dragster for 6 years and then went into autocross. Nascars for fags :laugh:
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Well then you obviously just drove and thats it.
 
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SAS said:
If you want to run straight water and blow your motor go for it but i will never run water for coolant. And there is nothing wrong with my motor its been fully rebuilt everything in my cooling system is brand new. Water boils over its that simple.
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It's amazing how stubborn you are......

If you took a second to:
- consider the facts(read the link I posted),
- research it for yourself (google is a great start),
- think about it for a while (perhaps put the bong down for an hour or two?)

Then you might realize this:
Temp sensors are in the liquid.

When you run water, maybe your temp gauge reads higher because water ABSORBS MORE HEAT from your engine block then transfers it to your radiator.

Since a coolant like ethylene glycol has 1/3 the heat capacity of pure water, it isn't capable of absorbing as much heat. So your temp sensor reads lower while your nice fresh all new OEM Toyota motor is cooking itself....
 
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