Engine is breaking up under accel...

D

Disco Potatoe

Member
Ok so i bought an engine right? It's a Ka24de out of a 95 ... compression test revealed ( 197,206,204,193) From #1-4

Code's that were reading first were mafs sensor , IACV , crank position sensor, and knock sensor and O2... then i cleared the codes.

It didn't have any O2 sensor's pluged in.... at all... I replaced them with brand new O2 sensor's...

replaced mafs with one i had on hand. (That work's)

Still having horrible acceleration rev's up to 1500-2000 ok then after that it breaks up horribly and wont rev past 4500-5000 i mean even after holding the throttle open for 20 seconds...

Code's reading now are just the crank position sensor... (come to find out its not even on the tranny at all...)

What could be causing this to happen will have a video up tomorrow of what it's doing. Before I pull it out of the car for the transplant into the 98


ALSO the tach is going crazy... like wacking itself all over the place.. going from 0-8k and back and forth and will stay.
Engine light is on and red Air Bag light is flashing...
 
Last edited:
Disco Potatoe said:
Ok so i bought an engine right? It's a Ka24de out of a 95 ...

Code's that were reading first were mafs sensor , IACV , crank position sensor, and knock sensor and O2... then i cleared the codes.

It didn't have any O2 sensor's pluged in.... at all... I replaced them with brand new O2 sensor's...

replaced mafs with one i had on hand.

Still having horrible acceleration rev's up to 1500-2000 ok then after that it breaks up horribly and wont rev past 4500-5000 i mean even after holding the throttle open for 20 seconds...

Code's reading now are just the crank position sensor... (come to find out its not even on the tranny at all...)

What could be causing this to happen will have a video up tomorrow of what it's doing. Before I pull it out of the car for the transplant into the 98
Click to expand...
what do u think it is
is there a spot for the cps
 
KeysSr said:
what do u think it is
is there a spot for the cps
Click to expand...

Yeah it's non existant it was taken off and never replaced... I will be looking for one soon to plug it in... I hate to spend 40 at autozone to buy one...

My freind's not even running his CPS and his car rev's up and run's fine... so i mean unless this engine is like an odd step child... idk... but i don't think that sensor is really causing all the drama... I feel like it's something else but i can't figure it out...

ALSO the tach is going crazy... like wacking itself all over the place.. going from 0-8k and back and forth and will stay.
Engine light is on and red Air Bag light is flashing...
 
Last edited:
check all your vac lines.... and the maf wiring...


unplug the maf at idle, does it smooth out? does it do nothing at all?

if anything, it sounds like it's pulling unmetered air under load...

either way, cars will fall apart around 4K if there's a bad MAF or wiring issue...
 
^
not true...

codes aren't the end all... some things take simple mechanics...

just because you cleared your codes, doesn't mean shit still isn't fucked up, it just means the ECU is compensating for that shit... hell, on my KA car, i had o2 and park neutral codes show up, i'd get em cleared, ride out for a couple weeks and they'd pop back up, yet nothing was wrong with my car, ran fine and all...

recheck the maf, check to make sure it's getting proper voltage, check your TPS voltage, and check for vac leaks AFTER the maf.... that's where i'd start
 
Blackzenki82 said:
^
not true...

codes aren't the end all... some things take simple mechanics...

just because you cleared your codes, doesn't mean shit still isn't fucked up, it just means the ECU is compensating for that shit... hell, on my KA car, i had o2 and park neutral codes show up, i'd get em cleared, ride out for a couple weeks and they'd pop back up, yet nothing was wrong with my car, ran fine and all...

recheck the maf, check to make sure it's getting proper voltage, check your TPS voltage, and check for vac leaks AFTER the maf.... that's where i'd start
Click to expand...

Yeah I'm gonna replace all the vacuum hoses and eliminate the EGR and replace the valve stem seal's since it's smoking a little under full throttle ...

I ran data number's while i had the computer on the car and the mafs seemed to be working according to factory specs... I will go ahead and pull the voltage on the tps and mafs either way to double check...

I feel like it's something REALLY Simple that's just causing it... But i can't find it yet...
 
Last edited:
i think its the cps
ps i have the same prob but my shit idles like shit sometime and other times it idles good idk what it is
 
Disco Potatoe said:
I feel like it's something REALLY Simple that's just causing it... But i can't find it yet...
Click to expand...

bro, that's ALWAYS the case, something simple, right in front of your face... another thing to check, since my car had somewhat similar probs, is maybe check the fuel pump voltage, make sure it's getting enough power under a 4K rpm load...


still sounds vacuum related tho... i'm not there the hear and see it, so it's a little hard to judge exactly, i'm just throwing out stuff that can help solve it, or something you'd need to/should do anyways...

my black car runs awesome, did a boost/vac test on it for shits and giggles cause i did it on the gray car i just sold, and found 2 couplers were leaking... go figure...
 
KeysSr said:
i think its the cps
ps i have the same prob but my shit idles like shit sometime and other times it idles good idk what it is
Click to expand...

I idles fine... no pops jitter's misses... etc.... it's only under acceleration where it has issues... and if feels like it has NO POWER even under full throttle im only going like +5mph every 3 seconds... If im lucky...

Blackzenki82 said:
bro, that's ALWAYS the case, something simple, right in front of your face... another thing to check, since my car had somewhat similar probs, is maybe check the fuel pump voltage, make sure it's getting enough power under a 4K rpm load...


still sounds vacuum related tho... i'm not there the hear and see it, so it's a little hard to judge exactly, i'm just throwing out stuff that can help solve it, or something you'd need to/should do anyways...

my black car runs awesome, did a boost/vac test on it for shits and giggles cause i did it on the gray car i just sold, and found 2 couplers were leaking... go figure...
Click to expand...

Fuel pump... Is possible and after i transplant it i have a brand new walbro 255 inside the car... so if it is the fuel pump it "should" fix the problem.

Then again the car backfire's like a mofo and i can like smell unburnt fuel when im driving the car...
 
go read my "SR Issues" thread... i replaced the fuel pump and everything was peachy keen after that... try swapping it out real fast, shit's easy as fuck...

and fuck a smoke machine, be like me, go to lowes, get a rubber pipe cap with the ID whatever size you intake/turbo inlet is, and then get a male air hose end by the compressors and shit, drill a 3/8 hole in the clamp, screw the male end in, clamp the motherfucker to your inlet/intake, set your air compressor to 25lbs (or 10PSI more than what you're pushing) and hook it up, let the compressor shut off, and just listen for the hssssssssssss or air leaking... use a cigg (or a black and mild in my case) to help isolate the leak IF you can hear it but not see it...

just a tip.... and the "tester" is under $10 at your local lowes...
 
Blackzenki82 said:
go read my "SR Issues" thread... i replaced the fuel pump and everything was peachy keen after that... try swapping it out real fast, shit's easy as fuck...

and fuck a smoke machine, be like me, go to lowes, get a rubber pipe cap with the ID whatever size you intake/turbo inlet is, and then get a male air hose end by the compressors and shit, drill a 3/8 hole in the clamp, screw the male end in, clamp the motherfucker to your inlet/intake, set your air compressor to 25lbs (or 10PSI more than what you're pushing) and hook it up, let the compressor shut off, and just listen for the hssssssssssss or air leaking... use a cigg (or a black and mild in my case) to help isolate the leak IF you can hear it but not see it...

just a tip.... and the "tester" is under $10 at your local lowes...
Click to expand...

Deff gonna do that tomorrow I'll probably push it to 30psi for the hell of things to test it out...
 
hhn2002 said:
sometimes an extremely lean condition can cause backfire.
Click to expand...

well i don't know what it does under accel but i know at idle with the computer on it It's steadily jumping for lean to rch so it seems to be working fine in that sence... I flow tested the injector's already... they are up to par... new fuel filter... Spark plug's & wire's...
 
KeysSr said:
have ever used a smoke machine theres nothing like the right tool for the job just pricey
Click to expand...

just like i could have spent thousands of dollars paying shop labor to build my car for me...

or i build it myself, save a shit ton of money, and have a better outcome cause it's MY CAR and i care more about it than just slapping it together for a paycheck...

i like my $10 solution, VS a an expensive smoke machine that i'll use one time and never use it again.... the lowes solution is around $10 and does the same shit....



hhn2002 said:
sometimes an extremely lean condition can cause backfire.
Click to expand...

yes it will.... before i swapped out the fuel pump my shit was running like shit, idled good, anything under 1.5K rpm was good, another over and it would sputter pop, back fire (even into the intake mani, seeing flames shoot into the intake through a termal spacer at night it bad ass tho!!)...

check the pump!!!!
 
Blackzenki82 said:
just like i could have spent thousands of dollars paying shop labor to build my car for me...

or i build it myself, save a shit ton of money, and have a better outcome cause it's MY CAR and i care more about it than just slapping it together for a paycheck...

i like my $10 solution, VS a an expensive smoke machine that i'll use one time and never use it again.... the lowes solution is around $10 and does the same shit....
Click to expand...
yea the $10 thing is good but when u do it for a living its nice to have the right tool for the job
but its a good idea and it does work
 
Fixed wiring harness was pinches or shorted somewhere fixed after swapping harnesses out.

Fixed wiring harness was pinched or shorted somewhere fixed after swapping harnesses out.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom