Common problem, not an average fix. KA24 stalling

F

foolycooly

Driver
Hey guys, so I bought a 89 coupe two tone shell. Decided to do a ka24de swap into it. The car was originally automatic, and previous owner had already done the swap to manual.

To start, the KA24DE is stock. It is the s13 KA24de with the butterfly valves in the intake. Has NGK wires, new NGK plugs, EGR delete. Things I've changed are injector o-rings, thermostat and gasket, hoses, belts, front/rear mains, valve cover gasket, oil, oil and fuel filters, etc. Swapped into it a clean gas tank and fuel pump. Using automatic ECU (green number 29)

The car will run, idle at 750/800rpm in limp mode with the maf unplugged. As soon as the maf is plugged in, it will jump up to about 2000 rpm and subsequently sputter and die within 3 or 4 seconds.

I have followed everything per FSM in the EC section

ECU reads code 55 - normal operation
I have swapped ECU's. Same problem.

TPS ---- pg 121 of EC
Ohms good for sensor
Voltage good
To ECU has continuity

Coolant Temp Sensor pg 99
Ohms good (Sensor)
Voltage good
Ground good
To ECU good

MAF pg 96
Ohms good (Sensor)
To ECU good
Voltage signal readings good both with key on/engine off and running

Dizzy pg 93
To ECU good
Injectors click
When disconnecting, hear relay click on passenger side
Voltage good when spun

IACV
Removed and cleaned it (the body as well as the valve that's held on by two screws)
Ohms good

Injector resistance is normal

Power Balance Test – seemed like momentary loss of power as per FSM

Compression Test – good and even across all cylinders

Fuel Pressure – good

Timing – good (20 degrees)

Vacuum leak test – good (I made a tester that is attached to the intake pipe and connects to air compressor)

FPR w/wo vacuum – no difference

New injector O-rings

I have extra parts laying around, and swapped them just for the hell of it.
I have swapped mafs, no difference
TPS, and manually controlled with a screwdriver, no difference
knock sensor, no difference
ECU, no difference
 
its your mafs/wiring for it. was it ever cut/rewired? dohc harness ever ran with a safc? all stock? something is not right if it only does it when your mafs is plugged in. get a safc hooked up and use to dummy out the mafs settings. are all your grounds good clean grounds?
 
Good, clean grounds. The harness came out of my friend's shell. Completely stock. No mods to the harness. We've also switched harnesses even. How is the maf wiring bad if I've checked continuity from plug to ECU and it's fine?

---------- Post added at 08:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:59 PM ----------
Living4surf said:
Give up and just sell me the two tone. Sorry no real help for you
Click to expand...

You said you wanted running... and, well, it does run and move... just with a slight technicality
 
i had more or less the same issue and still cant run the car unless i run an auto ecu but anyways, you need to get a reading on the fuel pressure, pump could be bad, fpr could be bad and so on, i would start by swapping the fuel filter, swap the fuel lines front and back, while the soft lines are out front and back blast the lines with compressed air, FUEL WILL COME OUT BE PREPARED TO CATCH IT WITH SOMETHING! it will be alot more than u think. while your under the car pop off the vent line and the check valve, toss the check valve, mine was fluttering and not releaving pressure properly so i just vent to atmosphere unrestricted, blast the line with compressed air, make sure u dont have a charcoal canister hooked up lol, theres another soft line where the floor pan meets the firewall, change all that shit out and see what happens, if that doesnt help then start cheap with a used fpr and a $30 china pump and see if that fixes your problem

also after fixing my problem the car would turn off randomly, at all kinds of fucked up places, wouldnt restart for at least an hour too, never thru a code for 2-3 weeks and then bam code 11 and 21 CAS and ignition cuircuit, swapped the dizzy and it went away but now has a low rpm misfire lol, and the dealer wants $510 for an OEM dizzy fucking Forty's

Hope some of this shit helps, i know how it feels to chase a Ghost problem
 
Lol read original post, it has new fuel filter and lines. Also, it has plenty of fuel pressure and it didn't drop off, ruling out a leaking injector or a regulator. On top of that, it has new injector o-rings. I've heard some crazy ass stories about bad o-rings but that shouldn't be the case here. Do you have a low-rpm misfire or backfire? Fucking tons of 240s run too rich at low rpm and get the little sputter/farting sound at idle
 
Usually if the maf is bad and you unplug it the car will run fine , you said you tried another but do you know for sure the other is good , im not saying thats it but if you know someone with one in a running car try it , but dont listene to idiots and start throwing parts at it , try to narrow it down
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom