Mountain_Man
Member
i miss the japanese hachis.
them bitches were bad as fuck.
i still cant get use to saying "AE86"
them bitches were bad as fuck.
i still cant get use to saying "AE86"
Boso style AE86
- Thread starter E'sFactoryAE86
- Start date
SAS
Driver
Great to hear man!!!!
I cant wait to see ur MK2 with sik whel fitment bruh.
PM pics man...of the wheels.
What finish?
15X10 all around!?
If ur shit is undercover for now, send me a PM...:bigthumbu
ToyotaFTW
yeah 15x10 all around and there black im getting them powder coated so no pics till i get them back. Problem is they stick out like 3 inches LMAO hopefully my widebody gets here soon so i can install them.
E'sFactoryAE86
Well-Known Member
Mountain Man: lol I know what u mean.
Yo SAS, damn if they stick out like 3", u need a killer wide-body bruh!
How much to powder coat all 4?
Yo SAS, damn if they stick out like 3", u need a killer wide-body bruh!
How much to powder coat all 4?
E'sFactoryAE86
Well-Known Member
lol I dont doubt it.:bigthumbu
PWBULL09 sure as soon as my wheels come in np.
PWBULL09 sure as soon as my wheels come in np.
Yo seriously if you rock that fitment with stock metal flares, youre the man.
Please roll your fenders properly though, the ones in that picture were done half ass. I'm sure you probably have already done a ton of research but here.
This is a sick write up from Paz, on how to properly roll/pull ae86 flares. Again, mad props and good luck :bigthumbu
AE86 Fender Flaring
There are many options for style on AE86's, and so you cant just pidgeon hole it with one size, because thats not very helpfull for someone who doesnt share your taste in 86's? Id never run overfenders on an 86 unless i had no other choice (im talkin, rusted out arches, overfenders allow you to chop it off and cover). Its just not my style... And so...
A more helpful post would be something like this:
First of all, modding the inner arch for full extreme sizes. The same seams need to be flattened. There is no loom to piss about with. The caster needs to be pulled forward and the front bumper modified to clear and/or the footwell of the car next to the seem needs to be hammered back a bit. The tab that holds the front bumper to the fender needs to go, cut it off the bumper and hammer the metal bit upwards out of the way. Arch liners, throw em away if you dont need to worry about rust. If you do, either throw em away and underseal like a bastard, or try to keep as much liner in there as you can. You will just need to cut away what rubs, trial and error. This will allow anything to clear on lock, but you may not have to do all of this to accomodate smaller wheels but that covers everything you'll ever need to modify up front.
The rear, its just a case of rolling the arch and removing some excess bumper plastic if need be.
As a guide point, for the front of an 86 with -3 degree's camber:
2 pieces welded together? How do you mean?
But flaring them isnt as bad as you would think, hell if i can do it, anyone can Just be prepared to take your time and you will need filler/bondo and paint afterwards.. Other than this, all you need is a panel beating hammer and a dolly (big lump of metal to hit against).
Basically, roll the lip under first. start taping up wards at the inner lip evenly from the front of the fender to the rear. Go about as far as the crease on the lower part of the door/fender. To roll it completely flat, put the dolly on the outside of the fender, flat against the lip and hammer from the inside to flatten the lip totally. Same for the back. As you get towards the crease in the body, start to roll it under less and less so it smoothly blends from a rolled lip to standard style.
Now, to flare them... Its easy, trust me. Just be gradual with your hammering to avoid the hexagon look. The more gradual you are with the flare the smoother the flares outer edge will be..
So anyway. Put the dolly on the slanted part of the arch ( / ) and start to tap out the flat bit ( | ) slowly but firmly. When you notice its moved out a little bit, move down the arch veeery slowly making sure to keep the flare even. Do this till you get all the way back to the fender/door crease again. You should have a tiny, slight flare that is even (but still not very noticable). Repeat this again and again, going from front to back always moving the dolly with the hammer and gradually, gently flare the metal a bit more.. and repeat, flare a bit more and repeat untill you are happy with the flare. I prefere a slight curve rather than just straight. Again, at the rear of the arch when you get near to the door crease, flare less and less so to gradually blend the flare into the stock metal. If you find you cant get rid of the seam in your arch and you are happy with the flare, put the dolly on the back of the arch and hammer the seam in, it'll disapear... But again, same as before the key is to do it gradually and evenly...
Sounds kinda complicated but it isnt really, maybe get a spare fender to practice on first.
Once youre flared and happy with the shape, the same applies for the rear but they are double skinned so once youve flared the outside, slam the shit out of the inner arch to make it follow the lines of the outside of the car.
Then its bondo time, a smooth skim over the top covering all the dents then just sand and work it back, may take a few attempts to get it right and dent free... Then throw paint on it and you'll see where it needs smoothing/working etc. This is the harder part if youre a perfectionist. Do you know anyone who does body work? Get them to help cus they will make your life a million times easier and better looking
its hard as hell to discribe over the internet, i sadly cant put it in any other words for you.. Hope it helps!
For an externally stock fender (which will need a bit of work on the inside), a good size is around 14x8 -10 to -15 offset with a 185/60/14 tyre. A 195 will fit but again, 185 leaves room to play with spacers. If you really want to push the stock arch, the most ive got under it was a 15x8 -14 offset with a 195/50/15. I had no rubbing really, but it was very close indeed... I've also fitted 14x8.5 -13 offset RS-Watanabe same wheel to a friends Levin (camber was stock but the car was lowered) and so this is the most ive pushed it size wise, again there maybe a few mm play with spacers depending on camber but if youre running this size on stock arches, youre getting close to the limits from my experiance. The Levin would rub occasionally.
For the rear, stock fender (modified inside), again 14x8 -10 to -15 with a 185/60/14 is great, allows you to fine tune with spacers and to slam it too. I ran 15x8 -14 offset on the rear of my Levin, with 195/50/15 tyres and they wouldnt go under stock arches. I think if you run 15's, around 0 to -5 offset is a good size for stock, again lets you fine tune with spacers (see note below, get longer studs for the rear if you are gonna use spacers).
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
For stock, flared fenders. Im still working on this sizing and i'll only tell you what i know to be true due to me actually doing it. Wont tell you things ive heard or read about incase its wrong.
As a guide point, for the front of an 86 with -3 degree's camber and flared, stock fenders (there can be slight discrepancies in size due to each flare being a custom affair):
So far ive fitted, and had no problems with 15x8 -20 offset with 195/50/15 tyres. They looked good but i feel i could of ran around -24 offset or so with little problem. At the moment i run 14x9 -25 offset up front with a 185/60/14 tyre. Ive also put a 195/60/14 up front on that size and it cleared, was very close buuut.. The car never moved off the drive while they were on so ive no idea of any problems, all i know is it tucked. Just. Ive just bought some SSR Mesh for the front of my car. They are 14x9 -28 offset, and its my belief that with a 6mm spacer (and a theoretical -34 offset) and 185/60/14 tyre, they will fit up front. I think this will reeeallly be pushing it, and i'll let you guys know how it goes when they arrive. They cost me $300. Im happy.
For the rear, again ive ran a 15x8 -14 offset with 195/50/15 tyre and it scrubbed, but that was just due to a crappy shortened panhard rod, never got around to buying an adjustable one due to me selling it. I think with an adjusted axle, they would of fitted fine. Looked good too, i'll dig pictures out later of all of this. I now run a 14x9 -19 offset on the rear with a 185/60/14. This doesnt catch under normal driving, only when i have to get up my steep drive. My Panhard Rod is out a touch and has siezed so the axle isnt quite true, this would alleviate some of the rubbing i have when i go up my drive. I have also ran a 195/60/14 on the same rims and again, under normal driving conditions i didnt notice any rubbing, but i feel it was very close.
Just as a side note, from my driving experiance the only tyre sizes worth using are 185/60/14, 195/60/14 and 195/50/15. Anything more is overkill for drift/track use if you ask me. Something also to add, dont run a 6mm or more spacer on the rear with stock length studs. Its a bad thing, i ran and it nearly wrecked my threads due to it, seems the high torsional loads (noticed it after a day of 4th gear stuff) pulled on them and there wasnt quite enough thread engaged to be safe. I dont run rear spacers anymore.
And finally, the great Justin Kikkawa was the first person to help me with rims, what size etc. He told me a golden rule for fitting rims, he goes by it and his AE86 is sick... "Buy the rims, and make the car fit them". Its a good rule ive found!
Paz
That's from the man himself, straight from the UK
Mad props, for real
-Jorge
Please roll your fenders properly though, the ones in that picture were done half ass. I'm sure you probably have already done a ton of research but here.
This is a sick write up from Paz, on how to properly roll/pull ae86 flares. Again, mad props and good luck :bigthumbu
AE86 Fender Flaring
There are many options for style on AE86's, and so you cant just pidgeon hole it with one size, because thats not very helpfull for someone who doesnt share your taste in 86's? Id never run overfenders on an 86 unless i had no other choice (im talkin, rusted out arches, overfenders allow you to chop it off and cover). Its just not my style... And so...
A more helpful post would be something like this:
First of all, modding the inner arch for full extreme sizes. The same seams need to be flattened. There is no loom to piss about with. The caster needs to be pulled forward and the front bumper modified to clear and/or the footwell of the car next to the seem needs to be hammered back a bit. The tab that holds the front bumper to the fender needs to go, cut it off the bumper and hammer the metal bit upwards out of the way. Arch liners, throw em away if you dont need to worry about rust. If you do, either throw em away and underseal like a bastard, or try to keep as much liner in there as you can. You will just need to cut away what rubs, trial and error. This will allow anything to clear on lock, but you may not have to do all of this to accomodate smaller wheels but that covers everything you'll ever need to modify up front.
The rear, its just a case of rolling the arch and removing some excess bumper plastic if need be.
As a guide point, for the front of an 86 with -3 degree's camber:
2 pieces welded together? How do you mean?
But flaring them isnt as bad as you would think, hell if i can do it, anyone can Just be prepared to take your time and you will need filler/bondo and paint afterwards.. Other than this, all you need is a panel beating hammer and a dolly (big lump of metal to hit against).
Basically, roll the lip under first. start taping up wards at the inner lip evenly from the front of the fender to the rear. Go about as far as the crease on the lower part of the door/fender. To roll it completely flat, put the dolly on the outside of the fender, flat against the lip and hammer from the inside to flatten the lip totally. Same for the back. As you get towards the crease in the body, start to roll it under less and less so it smoothly blends from a rolled lip to standard style.
Now, to flare them... Its easy, trust me. Just be gradual with your hammering to avoid the hexagon look. The more gradual you are with the flare the smoother the flares outer edge will be..
So anyway. Put the dolly on the slanted part of the arch ( / ) and start to tap out the flat bit ( | ) slowly but firmly. When you notice its moved out a little bit, move down the arch veeery slowly making sure to keep the flare even. Do this till you get all the way back to the fender/door crease again. You should have a tiny, slight flare that is even (but still not very noticable). Repeat this again and again, going from front to back always moving the dolly with the hammer and gradually, gently flare the metal a bit more.. and repeat, flare a bit more and repeat untill you are happy with the flare. I prefere a slight curve rather than just straight. Again, at the rear of the arch when you get near to the door crease, flare less and less so to gradually blend the flare into the stock metal. If you find you cant get rid of the seam in your arch and you are happy with the flare, put the dolly on the back of the arch and hammer the seam in, it'll disapear... But again, same as before the key is to do it gradually and evenly...
Sounds kinda complicated but it isnt really, maybe get a spare fender to practice on first.
Once youre flared and happy with the shape, the same applies for the rear but they are double skinned so once youve flared the outside, slam the shit out of the inner arch to make it follow the lines of the outside of the car.
Then its bondo time, a smooth skim over the top covering all the dents then just sand and work it back, may take a few attempts to get it right and dent free... Then throw paint on it and you'll see where it needs smoothing/working etc. This is the harder part if youre a perfectionist. Do you know anyone who does body work? Get them to help cus they will make your life a million times easier and better looking
its hard as hell to discribe over the internet, i sadly cant put it in any other words for you.. Hope it helps!
For an externally stock fender (which will need a bit of work on the inside), a good size is around 14x8 -10 to -15 offset with a 185/60/14 tyre. A 195 will fit but again, 185 leaves room to play with spacers. If you really want to push the stock arch, the most ive got under it was a 15x8 -14 offset with a 195/50/15. I had no rubbing really, but it was very close indeed... I've also fitted 14x8.5 -13 offset RS-Watanabe same wheel to a friends Levin (camber was stock but the car was lowered) and so this is the most ive pushed it size wise, again there maybe a few mm play with spacers depending on camber but if youre running this size on stock arches, youre getting close to the limits from my experiance. The Levin would rub occasionally.
For the rear, stock fender (modified inside), again 14x8 -10 to -15 with a 185/60/14 is great, allows you to fine tune with spacers and to slam it too. I ran 15x8 -14 offset on the rear of my Levin, with 195/50/15 tyres and they wouldnt go under stock arches. I think if you run 15's, around 0 to -5 offset is a good size for stock, again lets you fine tune with spacers (see note below, get longer studs for the rear if you are gonna use spacers).
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
For stock, flared fenders. Im still working on this sizing and i'll only tell you what i know to be true due to me actually doing it. Wont tell you things ive heard or read about incase its wrong.
As a guide point, for the front of an 86 with -3 degree's camber and flared, stock fenders (there can be slight discrepancies in size due to each flare being a custom affair):
So far ive fitted, and had no problems with 15x8 -20 offset with 195/50/15 tyres. They looked good but i feel i could of ran around -24 offset or so with little problem. At the moment i run 14x9 -25 offset up front with a 185/60/14 tyre. Ive also put a 195/60/14 up front on that size and it cleared, was very close buuut.. The car never moved off the drive while they were on so ive no idea of any problems, all i know is it tucked. Just. Ive just bought some SSR Mesh for the front of my car. They are 14x9 -28 offset, and its my belief that with a 6mm spacer (and a theoretical -34 offset) and 185/60/14 tyre, they will fit up front. I think this will reeeallly be pushing it, and i'll let you guys know how it goes when they arrive. They cost me $300. Im happy.
For the rear, again ive ran a 15x8 -14 offset with 195/50/15 tyre and it scrubbed, but that was just due to a crappy shortened panhard rod, never got around to buying an adjustable one due to me selling it. I think with an adjusted axle, they would of fitted fine. Looked good too, i'll dig pictures out later of all of this. I now run a 14x9 -19 offset on the rear with a 185/60/14. This doesnt catch under normal driving, only when i have to get up my steep drive. My Panhard Rod is out a touch and has siezed so the axle isnt quite true, this would alleviate some of the rubbing i have when i go up my drive. I have also ran a 195/60/14 on the same rims and again, under normal driving conditions i didnt notice any rubbing, but i feel it was very close.
Just as a side note, from my driving experiance the only tyre sizes worth using are 185/60/14, 195/60/14 and 195/50/15. Anything more is overkill for drift/track use if you ask me. Something also to add, dont run a 6mm or more spacer on the rear with stock length studs. Its a bad thing, i ran and it nearly wrecked my threads due to it, seems the high torsional loads (noticed it after a day of 4th gear stuff) pulled on them and there wasnt quite enough thread engaged to be safe. I dont run rear spacers anymore.
And finally, the great Justin Kikkawa was the first person to help me with rims, what size etc. He told me a golden rule for fitting rims, he goes by it and his AE86 is sick... "Buy the rims, and make the car fit them". Its a good rule ive found!
Paz
That's from the man himself, straight from the UK
Mad props, for real
-Jorge
E'sFactoryAE86
Well-Known Member
ENTRYSPEED! Awesome post!
I apprectiate it.
Yes, ive spoken to Paz on myspace several times in the past 2 years.
Me, personally, I wont be able to run stock flares like in that pic.
I ordered Jubiride FRP flares a few days ago.
My wheel offset is way too aggresive for OE fenders lol
Thanks again!:bigthumbu
I apprectiate it.
Yes, ive spoken to Paz on myspace several times in the past 2 years.
Me, personally, I wont be able to run stock flares like in that pic.
I ordered Jubiride FRP flares a few days ago.
My wheel offset is way too aggresive for OE fenders lol
Thanks again!:bigthumbu
E'sFactoryAE86
Well-Known Member
lol yeah.
Call & Talk to Bill, hes the main guy over there.
Cool ass dude.
I bought my first set for my old GT-S almost a year ago...
and I didnt have any problems with'em.
Ima tell u this though, dont go exactly by what the site says.
Few things Ive found out:
**15X9 are available but not in chrome. Only black, white or silver.
**Only 15X7, 15X8 and 15X10 are available in chrome.
**No 14" wheels are available in chrome (sucks) only black, white or silver.
**13" wheels are available in chrome.
Oh and something that is not stated on the website...
--U have the option of ordering the wheels chrome dish with raw centers (to paint any color u want).
Also be VERY SURE of the wheels u r ordering (width,offset/backspacing&bolt-pattern)
bc like the wheels ive ordered, theyre custom built (one-off) and CANNOT be returned for any reason
Here is a pic from last year around September.
My current AE86 (non running project at the time)
and my old GT-S coupe (sold).
Rear wheels are full chrome Diamond racing wheels in 15X8 -12 offset on stretched 185-55s.
Weaksauce compared to whats coming for this one lol.
Call & Talk to Bill, hes the main guy over there.
Cool ass dude.
I bought my first set for my old GT-S almost a year ago...
and I didnt have any problems with'em.
Ima tell u this though, dont go exactly by what the site says.
Few things Ive found out:
**15X9 are available but not in chrome. Only black, white or silver.
**Only 15X7, 15X8 and 15X10 are available in chrome.
**No 14" wheels are available in chrome (sucks) only black, white or silver.
**13" wheels are available in chrome.
Oh and something that is not stated on the website...
--U have the option of ordering the wheels chrome dish with raw centers (to paint any color u want).
Also be VERY SURE of the wheels u r ordering (width,offset/backspacing&bolt-pattern)
bc like the wheels ive ordered, theyre custom built (one-off) and CANNOT be returned for any reason
Here is a pic from last year around September.
My current AE86 (non running project at the time)
and my old GT-S coupe (sold).
Rear wheels are full chrome Diamond racing wheels in 15X8 -12 offset on stretched 185-55s.
Weaksauce compared to whats coming for this one lol.
Last edited:
E'sFactoryAE86
Well-Known Member
Do it man...lol
Yes, theyre extremely cheap.
I wont lie, with the money I make
I could buy some MKIIs new, but Im married lol
and I honestly cant bring myself to spending 2K on just wheels.
My gurl wants the new altima coupe so...
For the $, Diamond Racing wheels are a helluva fucking deal...
Unbeatable IMHO.
Do it SAS, ur shit would look so sik...
Yes, theyre extremely cheap.
I wont lie, with the money I make
I could buy some MKIIs new, but Im married lol
and I honestly cant bring myself to spending 2K on just wheels.
My gurl wants the new altima coupe so...
For the $, Diamond Racing wheels are a helluva fucking deal...
Unbeatable IMHO.
Do it SAS, ur shit would look so sik...
E'sFactoryAE86
Well-Known Member
Yeah, but i dont want decent offset MKIIs although theyre beautiful in any offset.
My ideal sizes would be 8 or 9 wide up front -12 or lower
and 10 wide rear with -12 or lower.
So having said that, theres basically no way to get them in that size without having to
sell my nuts lol.
My ideal sizes would be 8 or 9 wide up front -12 or lower
and 10 wide rear with -12 or lower.
So having said that, theres basically no way to get them in that size without having to
sell my nuts lol.
15x9 -15 ftmfw 195/50/15
E'sFactoryAE86
Well-Known Member
SAS
Driver
i mean decent condition not offset LMAO cant scarafice offset ever
E'sFactoryAE86
Well-Known Member
Like ENTRYSPEED knows: Offset is everything lol:bigthumbu