bleeding the clutch

Hectorious

Hectorious

Spectator
Bleeding of Clutch

1. Jack-up the right front side of the car.
2. Remove the wheel.
3. Sit down beside the right front side wheel-well of the car (face towards where the shock absorber is located)
4. Locate the slave cylinder (You can then see it on the left side part of shock absorber... which is directly connected to the clutch body.)
5. An air bleed valve can be seen connected to the slave cylinder. Put the 8 mm close wrench on it and make sure that the air bleed valve is tightly closed. (Screw clockwise.)
6. Put some rags near the trajectory path of the air bleed valve.
7. Ask a friend to sit on the driver's seat.
8. Make sure that the clutch fluid reservoir is full. Fill if necessary.
9. Let him slowly push (by counting 3-5 seconds) the clutch pedal until it bottoms out.
10. Let him maintain the clutch pedal on the floor until you give a signal to release it slowly.
11. Now slowly loosen (screw counter-clockwise) the air bleed valve until a squirt of bubbly fluid emerge.
12. Re-tighten the air bleed valve.
13. Give a signal to your friend to release the clutch pedal slowly.
14. Repeat process D-8 to D-13 (around 5 to 7 times) until you notice that the squirt that is coming from the air bleed valve is clear brake fluid and the clutch pedal feels tight.
15. Make sure to tighten the air bleed valve.
16. Fill the clutch fluid reservoir to the maximum level.
17. Close the cap of the clutch fluid reservoir.
18. Clean with water all the parts where the brake fluid spilled onto.
19. Using the wheel wrench, re-install the wheel and tighten the nuts in an X pattern.
20. Jack-down the right front side of the car.
21. Completely tighten the wheels.
22. Afterwhich, you can test drive and see if everything is OK.

Finally, you can now clean-up, eat your snacks with your friend and enjoy the rest of the day

I hope this would serve as a reference for you guys out there who plans to fix your cars in case such problem occurs.
 
2.5 > 1.6 > 2.0 > 2.4

<3

- Erick
PS: Good info... e30s (and most rwd cars I'm assuming) are extremely similar. The tool size might vary, but in essence, it's the same process with the air bleed valves.
 
i've found it easier using a clear piece of tubing that will fit over the bleeder valve. This makes it easier to see if there are any bubbles and also its much cleaner, as u put the other end to a collecting bottle or something. :bigthumbu
 
dampner

there's website ..takamotorsports.com they have a line the connects the master cylinder directly to the slave cylinder removing the dampner completely the line is pricey but trust me if will give the best pressure you can ever get.
 
mechanics 101?

Here is probably the most important piece of information that was supposed to be included in that "tutorial". When you jack the car up to take off the wheel you need to be on a flat surface, wheels chalked, and the vehicle placed on 2 jack stands from proper jack points, either frame rails or sub frames.

I would never trust that peice of shit 80 dollar jack you got from autozone to hold that car up. Thats 700 lbs per wheel that you will never ever move if it fell on you, if you have the chance to move anything before it squashes your mellon. What a horrible accident.

BTW make sure that surface you are working on is flat. I have watched dumbasses across the street at the tire place drop my sisters focus because the jack stands were on uneven ground.
 
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The dampener is very easy to get rid of. Takes only a few minutes. You just gotta carefully bend the hardline that goes to the dampener towards the softline and tighten. Then unbolt the dampener and your done.
 
what size stainless steel line should i use instead of hardline and what fittings if i was going to get rid of the hard line and dampaner completely
 
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