any good machine shops in the ft laud to WPB area?

Sketchy564

Driver
So i have a "reconditioned" SR long block that i plan in throwing back in my car. It was making some wierd valvetrain noise, and i want to take the head off, take it to machine shop that knows SR20's, and have them check the valve shims to make sure they are correct, and to check the valve lash as well. Possibly replace the valve seals if they arent fresh, and get a cometic head gasket and ARP head studs.

I dont want to take it to a place thats gonna charge me out the ass for a shitty job, and i dont want to take it to a place that has no idea what the fuck they are doing either

that being said, anybody have any recomendations on where to take it?
 
why do all that work and slap a cometic gasket in? Its like changing ur oil but not the filter... only on a much larger scale
 
why do all that work and slap a cometic gasket in? Its like changing ur oil but not the filter... only on a much larger scale

why not? i plan on keeping this motor for a long time, and taking it to the track a lot, especially once i move to orlando


and how much did you pay at russ racing and what exactly did they do to "build" it?
 
why not? i plan on keeping this motor for a long time, and taking it to the track a lot, especially once i move to orlando


and how much did you pay at russ racing and what exactly did they do to "build" it?

So use QUALITY parts... Apex-i / Power Enterprise / Cosworth - dont skimp on a head gasket

Didnt do any porting/polishing but pretty much replaced EVERYTHING minus the lifters in the head. Clearances checked/shimmed, new studs installed, decking, cleaning

Came up to around 3 billz

Photo_032808_002.jpg

Photo_032808_006.jpg

Photo_032808_001.jpg
 
Last edited:
now was that $300ish for just the labor, or did that cover the new studs, and the shims, valves, and whatever else you replaced?

i dont want to go crazy spending money on this, but like i said, i want to make this SR last me a long time, so i would have no problems spending all of my tax return just on the motor in terms of longevity and solidity
 
That was only labor homie... shop around tho you may find a better deal just make sure the company is legit
 
ok i might end up taking it to cylinder head exchange, ive heard good things about them

also, where did you get your new valves, seals, shims, rocker arms, and everything else you replaced?
 
Contact @ askme4parts (ebay seller) Randy is his name - his AIM is askme4parts as well good guy

Might be overkill but be sure to mention that the lifters be bled and the rocker/shims clearance be checked as well. Most folks believe that because the lifters are hydraulic they are self bleeding/adjusting and overlook these critical steps
 
Last edited:
and you just got oem valves and rocker arms? or did you go with OE replacement, or aftermarket?

rocker arms are $29 a piece on FR sport, so thats not too expensive, but the valves look expensive as hell. Im wondering if im better off just grinding mine down to have them cleaned or what the best route is
 
and you just got oem valves and rocker arms? or did you go with OE replacement, or aftermarket?

rocker arms are $29 a piece on FR sport, so thats not too expensive, but the valves look expensive as hell. Im wondering if im better off just grinding mine down to have them cleaned or what the best route is

OEM Seals (intake/exhaust)
OEM Rocker arms (All 8 New)
BC Valves, Springs, Retainers
Tomei Poncams
Tomei Rocker Arm Stoppers

I actually have a full set of valves/springs/retainers if yours are bent/damaged you can pick em up for the FREE
 
OEM Seals (intake/exhaust)
OEM Rocker arms (All 8 New)
BC Valves, Springs, Retainers
Tomei Poncams
Tomei Rocker Arm Stoppers

I actually have a full set of valves/springs/retainers if yours are bent/damaged you can pick em up for the FREE

hows the condition on them? i need to open my motor up to see everything in detail and what i should replace and whats already good and can stay, but thanks dude, if i end up needing them ill hit you up for sure

which head gasket did you go with?
 
Auto Motive Machine Inc
13345 Northwest 7th Avenue, North Miami, FL
(305) 688-8400
This place does awesome work. You can try getting the rocker arms from nissanparts.cc I saw them there not too long ago for $22 a piece.
 
Last edited:
hows the condition on them? i need to open my motor up to see everything in detail and what i should replace and whats already good and can stay, but thanks dude, if i end up needing them ill hit you up for sure

which head gasket did you go with?

Everything was in good shape besides the one rocker arm I broke - just changed out cuz my wallet was itchin :)

First time I went with Cosworth ~$160 which was great quality no problems - spun a bearing

Now I have Apex-i ~$180 with the built in "fire ring" around each cylinder - quality is top notch
 
my wallets not really itching, mines more like a starving kid in africa

what do the fire rings do? $180 is expensive compared to the cometic, but its only $20 more compared to the cosworth

also what did you do with your other 7 rocker arms? And what happened when your rocker arm broke? Loose any power, make a knocking noise?
 
from FRsport.com

"Apexi Metal Head Gasket for the RWD SR20DET (S13 S14 S15). Premiere Japanese tuner Apexi presents one of the most popular head gaskets on the market for the RWD SR20DET Engine. This gasket is available in various bore sizes and thicknesses to meet your specific application. The Apexi uses a Full Grommet style head gasket. Full Grommet head gaskets have superior sealing capacity and durability. Each cylinder bore incorporates a fire ring to seal gas pressure at high boost."

http://www.frsport.com/Apexi-814-N1...l-Head-Gasket-SR20DET-S13-S14-S15_p_9427.html

http://www.frsport.com/Cosworth-200...t-Nissan-SR20DET-87mm-1-1mm-Thick_p_8905.html

I might have the other rocker arms in the same box as the valves - gotta check - cant really remember what I did with those

Oh and a broken rocker means valve doesnt open so it drove like poo poo immediately (exhaust valves werent opening on cylinder 4)
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom