air/fuel ratio

thank you soo much blackzenki for giving your credentials and input so professionally and thanks for chiming in. this thread can close now.
 
16.1 AFR @ 20lbs with a 300 shot of nawz is where it's at!


O-zone said:
i was thinking about this recently. i believe ill be going this route along with the nistune. good to know its a decent product
Click to expand...

for the record, NIStune is bad the fuck ass, and put it with a Innovate LC-1 and whatever gauge you choose (DB Gauge in my case), it's a fucking awesome tuning tool, and the layout is simple as shit, even if you know nothing about tuning...

hell, it's got a drop down menu for you MAF from a KA24E single cam MAF to a Ford Cobra MAF... simple as shit to resize your injectors... and i might have it mixed with bikirom, but i think it also has a drop down menu for what turbo you're using, anything from the stock T25, to a GT2871RS and up...

not to mention, it's real time, and you can tune as you're driving down the road, while logging AFRs at certain RPMs and loads... not to mention, my favorite feature, Consult port... it taps right into your factory consult port and has full diagnostics.... if you throw any trouble codes, it will tell you, no more trips to advance to read that light, or counting blinking red LED's waiting for that 55 code to show up...

any nissan i have in the future will have NIStune installed... and it supports damn near ALL Nissan motors...

from single slammers, KAs, CAs, SRs, VGs, RBs, etc etc...
 
there is no best afr for every engine, every fuel ... etc. some engines can lean cruise at 16.5 to 1 some need a richer mixture. if you have a cam with alot of overlap, you might need a rich mixture in some cases up to 13 to 1 in order to have a smooth idle. you guys cant talk about air to fuel ratios without talking about boost levels, or how agrresive the timing map is. a car with alot of boost and pump gas might need a mixture in the 11 to 1 range at WOT in order to be "safe".

If your planing on doing any tuning i suggest you read a book and equip yourself with the proper tools. things you need include a wideband, knock sensor, and a dyno or some type of metering tool.
 
Last edited:
ah yes good point. i just assumed it was fairly stock as if it wasnt most likely he would have let us know.
 
So far BlackZenki seems to be the guy to listen to mostly.. I say this from experience tuning my own car (just basic tuning) and sitting with my tuner and him explaining a few things.

But homeskillet is also right.. so take blackzenki's advice and go from there..just keep doing some more research
 
Ok this a lot of good info in here an it seems like my afrs need to be changed up a bit.
Cuz I'm running a greddy 18g turbo an 550 inj, an at idle my afrs are at 12.6 which usually at night they seem to be higher like in the 14s.
My cruising under load is about 12.5-13.5,
But say I'm driving on the highway an I have the throttle open like 20% in 5th an the rpms come up to were it dead still, my afrs become supremely rich like 10.2-10.6
An this is a concern to me cuz when I'm crusing an the afrs drop to the 10s the car will drive an sputter a bit, I'm guessing do to so much fuel.
 
Blackzenki82 said:
i've got NIStune on my SR (which, for those of you who don't know is a real time tuning software that basicaly turns your stock ECU into a full standalone, with all capabilities of the AEM, GReddy, Haltech standalone units.. although it DOES NOT support MAP sensors like stated stand alone units), and i've created my own "base tune" i got my WOT and load AFR's on point by myself...

then, i had my car dyno tuned by Martin @ Z Fever, discussed at length with him AFRs and such.....

i've also taken advice on how to tune the NIStune from TWO of the cofounder/owners of RS Enthalpy...

now that my "credentials" are out of the way here's your target AFRs...

WOT/full boost = 12.0 safest, most reliable
cruising/under load (high way driving, cruising at speed) = 14.7

my tune sits right at those numbers, idle AFR isn't near as important, but with as long as your tune is solid, you shouldn't have to worry about it, although 12.5 is rich as fuck at idle, and is a waste of gas... my car idles around 15.5-17.0 AFR depending on engine/ext temp and humidity, although under load, it's at 14.7, and WOT/max boost, it's dead nutz at 12.0




oh, and whoever has a AEM UEGO, get rid of that piece of shit and get AT LEAST an innovate LC-1 with the DB gauge... if you feel the need to step it up, get the XD-16 controller for the LC-1 unit, bare minimum....
Click to expand...

Why the hate on the Uego ? i already have this guage installed, and planning on running nistune in a few weeks ????
 
Jay240sx said:
Why the hate on the Uego ? i already have this guage installed, and planning on running nistune in a few weeks ????
Click to expand...

Was also wondering the same thing. I need a wideband with an AFR gauge, and AEM seems to be like a good option that wont drain me of all my funds to finish my project.
Any reasons why the AEM sucks besides "innovate is better"?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom