A few things
- Thread starter Spirit
- Start date
SR
Spectator
BiG MiKE
Driver
Dont be douches... instead of saying "OMFG go GOOGLE iT!" click the back button and move the fuck on
Usin SPL Solid Aluminum for subframe - kinda manly upgrade (noisy with 2-way) but super solid (as it should be)
Stay away from J30 diff's shits are whack and a waste of time... stack some $$$ and go with a proper 1.5 or 2 way orr.... I hate to say this.... or go welded
Coils - Ive used Megans and KTS (SPL) both are great and decently priced - not the stiffest but definetly streetable and track worthy
Usin SPL Solid Aluminum for subframe - kinda manly upgrade (noisy with 2-way) but super solid (as it should be)
Stay away from J30 diff's shits are whack and a waste of time... stack some $$$ and go with a proper 1.5 or 2 way orr.... I hate to say this.... or go welded
Coils - Ive used Megans and KTS (SPL) both are great and decently priced - not the stiffest but definetly streetable and track worthy
Is welded all that bad for a track only car?
---------- Post added at 12:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:19 PM ----------
Any specific shops? I live like 10 minutes from PBIR.
---------- Post added at 12:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:19 PM ----------
Any specific shops? I live like 10 minutes from PBIR.
Nelson_SNDM
Media
Pat has been rocking a welded and he drifts fine.
If you have the money for a 2 way get it, if you don't get a welded.
Avoid a J30, unless its your daily.
If you have the money for a 2 way get it, if you don't get a welded.
Avoid a J30, unless its your daily.
here ya go:
- 92-94 J30 diffs you need to use the J30 axles (half shafts) or swap the output shafts with the stock 240sx
- Later model 94 J30 have the 6 bolt output shafts and axles so use these with no mods
- 95-96 J30 will work no mods needed - You can use the stock 240sx axles.
- All the J30 diffs listed above is .75" longer than the stock 240sx diff & have a 3.916 gear ratio (will still work with no problems)
- Stock 240sx ratio is : 4.0836
- 92-94 J30 diffs you need to use the J30 axles (half shafts) or swap the output shafts with the stock 240sx
- Later model 94 J30 have the 6 bolt output shafts and axles so use these with no mods
- 95-96 J30 will work no mods needed - You can use the stock 240sx axles.
- All the J30 diffs listed above is .75" longer than the stock 240sx diff & have a 3.916 gear ratio (will still work with no problems)
- Stock 240sx ratio is : 4.0836
BiG MiKE
Driver
Cheaper = KA All day...
Sr20's can put a nice dent in your pockets and can be troublesome when you start beatin the shizzle outta em
Ter tech FTMFW
Living4surf
Driver
If this is a track only car def go with solid subframe bushings. They are a pain in the ass to install but everything is so much more solid and you don't have to worry about extra noise vibration since its a track car. The two I would go with are powered by Max or spl great companies and both actually raise the subframe to help suspension geometry on lowered cars.
As for coilovers I would stay away from your really cheap coilovers (Megan, Isis, ksport) unless you are on a tight budget. But if you can afford just another couple hundred and step up to a slightly better set up there is a world of difference. Better traction less bounce which leads to much better control. If you can get to the $1000 price rang stance and powered by Max make good intermediate coils if not the entry level coils that you see every where are still far better than nothing.
Another big thing to get that no one has mentioned is adjustable arms not only are you replacing worn out bushings you are also gaining the ability to set your alighnment properly which will make a world of difference. Isis makes good cheap arm set.
As for the diff just get it welded easiest and cheapest way to start sliding. Like people have said j30 diffs are crap they lock sometimes and sometimes they don't and that's the last thing you want when going in to a corner. The 2 way is just a waste of money at this point you aren't going to gain enough to justify the huge price difference IMO.
Motor is a whole different story it's much harder to give you a easy answer on this is better than that. If you are keeping cost down a ka is going to be the cheapest way to go. If you have the budget getting some power in the car will make it much easier to slide starting out since you won't have to be as agressive and will have some extra power to correct, but a ka has plenty of power to learn if that's all your budget allows. I would get better coils before spending more on a motor. If you do have the money there are lots of options that won't cost that much more than a sr if you watch for deals to come up and may work out a little better in the long run than a sr. I personally like the na 2j swap can get the motor and Trans pretty cheap if you watch for someone swapping their Lexus. You can also pic up rb25's for fairly cheap of you watch.
---------- Post added at 05:12 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:10 AM ----------
Where do you live that you are that close to pbir I'm in Jupiter if you need help or just Want more info in person. Also I have no idea if this makes sense or not it's 5 am and I can't sleep lol
As for coilovers I would stay away from your really cheap coilovers (Megan, Isis, ksport) unless you are on a tight budget. But if you can afford just another couple hundred and step up to a slightly better set up there is a world of difference. Better traction less bounce which leads to much better control. If you can get to the $1000 price rang stance and powered by Max make good intermediate coils if not the entry level coils that you see every where are still far better than nothing.
Another big thing to get that no one has mentioned is adjustable arms not only are you replacing worn out bushings you are also gaining the ability to set your alighnment properly which will make a world of difference. Isis makes good cheap arm set.
As for the diff just get it welded easiest and cheapest way to start sliding. Like people have said j30 diffs are crap they lock sometimes and sometimes they don't and that's the last thing you want when going in to a corner. The 2 way is just a waste of money at this point you aren't going to gain enough to justify the huge price difference IMO.
Motor is a whole different story it's much harder to give you a easy answer on this is better than that. If you are keeping cost down a ka is going to be the cheapest way to go. If you have the budget getting some power in the car will make it much easier to slide starting out since you won't have to be as agressive and will have some extra power to correct, but a ka has plenty of power to learn if that's all your budget allows. I would get better coils before spending more on a motor. If you do have the money there are lots of options that won't cost that much more than a sr if you watch for deals to come up and may work out a little better in the long run than a sr. I personally like the na 2j swap can get the motor and Trans pretty cheap if you watch for someone swapping their Lexus. You can also pic up rb25's for fairly cheap of you watch.
---------- Post added at 05:12 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:10 AM ----------
Where do you live that you are that close to pbir I'm in Jupiter if you need help or just Want more info in person. Also I have no idea if this makes sense or not it's 5 am and I can't sleep lol
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I'm right around the corner where Northlake meets Beeline. Acreage/Loxahatchee area.
Yeah I'm not sure because my car had a KA but it had a hole in the block so we pulled it. I could save up for a few months and be able to grab the SR20DET from JDM of Miami or the unsure way of picking up a KA24 from a junkyard. I would be taking a risk though. I wouldn't mind the RB but I heard the swap is expensive. I'll keep looking into it.
Yeah I'm not sure because my car had a KA but it had a hole in the block so we pulled it. I could save up for a few months and be able to grab the SR20DET from JDM of Miami or the unsure way of picking up a KA24 from a junkyard. I would be taking a risk though. I wouldn't mind the RB but I heard the swap is expensive. I'll keep looking into it.
carcrazee
Driver
get a ka to learn on, so later down the road get an sr and drifting will be cake, learning on a ka will teach u how to keep it sideways with less power, if u can master that, then wen u upgrade to an sr it will be super easy, sr's are very reliable, theyr worth the money, i have friends that beat the piss out of them and they run perfectly, with a ka, u have to get lucky for reliabilty, hope that helps a little
Living4surf
Driver
You won't be spending 1k on a ka or at least I hope not. And they are both about as reliable as the other. Some people get lucky with either some get unlucky.
Remember you have other cost with a motor swap like wireing, radiator, intercooler then little things like boost gauge and hoses. I think you need to do a lot more research before starting anything on the car so you don't have to do things twice
Remember you have other cost with a motor swap like wireing, radiator, intercooler then little things like boost gauge and hoses. I think you need to do a lot more research before starting anything on the car so you don't have to do things twice