a/c and electrical

z_three_two

z_three_two

Tempus edax rerum
Driver
1. My a/c stopped working after I did my 5-speed swap, compressor and all turn on, but the a/c won't blow at all. It was ice cold before.

2. Not related to 5speed swap, but... when my lights are off and I hit the brake pedal, not only my brake lights come on--but also my front turn signals, cluster, a/c backlight, and dome turn on.

Any ideas?
Thanks.
 
Check to make sure that you reconnected all of your wiring harness grounds, it sounds like something may have been left loose causing the voltage to back-feed through a circuit in regards to the lighting issue.

For the A/C issue, how often does the a/c compressor cycle off and on? Is it rapidly, normal or stay on a long time (more than it used to)?

Also, feel the larger of the two a/c lines going in to the dash and let us know if it is cold, hot or equal to the smaller a/c line.
 
doug in nc said:
Check to make sure that you reconnected all of your wiring harness grounds, it sounds like something may have been left loose causing the voltage to back-feed through a circuit in regards to the lighting issue.

For the A/C issue, how often does the a/c compressor cycle off and on? Is it rapidly, normal or stay on a long time (more than it used to)?

Also, feel the larger of the two a/c lines going in to the dash and let us know if it is cold, hot or equal to the smaller a/c line.
Click to expand...

light issue seems fixed after I replaced an incorrect bulb and connector......

a/c:
The larger line is cold at idle, and actually gets lost of frost all along the line when I rev the engine, and the smaller line is hot and gets hotter when revved...
 
OK, with frost on the lines the possibilities are limited.
You can rule out the compressor, drier, condenser, control head and a few other items.

I've seen one line frost up when the system was low. Kind of defied logic but that was the only one like it. If you hooked up gauges to the car then we could find out the condition of the charge.

The temperature differences you felt on both lines are as they should be. The fat one should be cold, the skinny one should be hot.

The next thing I'd need to verify is that when you say it "won't blow at all" are you referring to air VOLUME or air TEMPERATURE?
 
Ah, ok. Well, then we're dealing with the blower motor and control head, not the actual refrigerant side of things.

Check your fuses inside the car using a test light. Then check to see if you have power at the blower motor. There should be a two wire connector on it, one will be power and the other is ground. Try beating lightly on the bottom of the blower motor/housing to jar it. Sometimes they just stick.
 
Fuses are fine, don't know how to check for power at the blower motor, but I did tap all along under/behind the glove compartment [to no avail], lol.. I'll disassemble later as my alternator/fan belt decided to ditch me. I take it the blower motor is inside the black plastic closest to the ecu, right?
 
Usually it's on the underside of the dash, right side. While I'm poking around on a 240 forum, I'll admit I'm not as well versed as most. I can find out for sure tomorrow on Alldata.

To check the blower motor you'll need a test light or a multimeter, do you have one?
 
dont think the compressor would be bad, its doing whats its supposed to. high side is hot and low side is cold. its definetly compressing the refrgierant thus causing the heat due to friction on the high side. def has something to do with your blend door,hvac control unit, or blower motor.
 
rxspeed7 said:
dont think the compressor would be bad, its doing whats its supposed to. high side is hot and low side is cold. its definetly compressing the refrgierant thus causing the heat due to friction on the high side. def has something to do with your blend door,hvac control unit, or blower motor.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the sensical reply, some people are just post whoring and not reading through threads.
 
doug in nc said:
Check to make sure that you reconnected all of your wiring harness grounds, it sounds like something may have been left loose causing the voltage to back-feed through a circuit in regards to the lighting issue.

For the A/C issue, how often does the a/c compressor cycle off and on? Is it rapidly, normal or stay on a long time (more than it used to)?

Also, feel the larger of the two a/c lines going in to the dash and let us know if it is cold, hot or equal to the smaller a/c line.
Click to expand...

very tru if u leave sumthing unplged it will drw groud from other sources and make crazy stuff happen...
honestly i would cross check fsm on the entire ac system...like ie power to everything...pressure switch and also check if any wires got rubbed together or sumthing...on s13s thers two major grounding points in engine bay for motor..chassis and ecu
 
Checked power with a meter, hope I'm doing this right, lol. It shows 12v (?) for almost all fuses except for blower motor fuses, shows about 2v....... Fuses are good, but seems like I'm getting low/no power?
 
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