60-1 turbo

Duuude, no. Get a f'n rom tune. Its not that much more after you consider tuning time for the safc.
 
Get a rom tune. Fuck the safc. Go on ka-t.org and buy a kit that you'll end up using. No sense in buying a turbo kit (which most importantly is turbo plus a manifold), and then not using it...wtf mate...Buy a t3/t4. Or a to4e .48 for a quick spool. Youd be straight.
 
Devil Man said:
i dont see the difference... i mean 20psi is 20psi which ever way you look at it. isnt it? sure one might be more efficent and boost earlier but isnt a measurement of air the same not matter the source?
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manfred: sigh
 
Devil Man said:
i dont see the difference... i mean 20psi is 20psi which ever way you look at it. isnt it? sure one might be more efficent and boost earlier but isnt a measurement of air the same not matter the source?
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CFM is different with different turbos.

I understand what you meant earlier about Boost is what fucks motors up but Manfred is trying to be a little more technical about it.

Manfred he was trying to say that in other words you can run a huge turbo on a Ka as long as you don't boost the shyt out of it. The motor shall be fine.

"You can use any turbo with the right amount of boost"
 
Devil Man said:
i dont see the difference... i mean 20psi is 20psi which ever way you look at it. isnt it? sure one might be more efficent and boost earlier but isnt a measurement of air the same not matter the source?
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In a way you're right. Strictly in terms of the compressor being larger and more efficient, an engine shouldn't make more/less power at a given psi. But you're talking about completely different turbos w/ completely different turbines. See, an engine is an air pump. The more efficiently an engine operates as an air pump, the more power it will make (air in/air out). Now think about the turbine side of GT4x vs that of a t2x. No formal education is needed to know the GT4x has a much larger turbine side and will most likely create much less back-preassure. To make sense of it, a larger turbine will exhibit a lower pressure ratio which means lower turbine inlet pressure (TIP) - back-preassure. So even though the intake manifold pressure levels are the same, the engine will be able to move a greater mass of air in and out.
 
tonymac sounds like a professor at oxford or something, you been doin this a while haven't you. good info :applause: (<-- i love when im able to use this)
 
Hahaha, thanks. I wish I were smart enough to teach this stuff. The reality is I barely understand it at all.
 
Tonymac said:
In a way you're right. Strictly in terms of the compressor being larger and more efficient, an engine shouldn't make more/less power at a given psi. But you're talking about completely different turbos w/ completely different turbines. See, an engine is an air pump. The more efficiently an engine operates as an air pump, the more power it will make (air in/air out). Now think about the turbine side of GT4x vs that of a t2x. No formal education is needed to know the GT4x has a much larger turbine side and will most likely create much less back-preassure. To make sense of it, a larger turbine will exhibit a lower pressure ratio which means lower turbine inlet pressure (TIP) - back-preassure. So even though the intake manifold pressure levels are the same, the engine will be able to move a greater mass of air in and out.
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mmm now if this was the case then, would you run lower boost to get the same hp at the end?
 
personally, I wouldn't use anything ball-bearing on your stock ka, unless you plan to run timing control along with some sort of fuel management. I would hate to see a spun bearing destroy that beauty of a turbo.
 
mmm now if this was the case then, would you run lower boost to get the same hp at the end?
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Thats what I plan on doing with my rb20. Run a better turbo at like 12 psi and make way over the stockish 215 whp.
 
gaehrings14 said:
Im running a slightly larger turbo than that and it spools up real quick (KA 2.4l), I have it at 9lbs not even close to its effeciency range.... Last time I was at the dyno I made 280 hp and 266 tq. Tuned with a safc... 480cc injectors. Ka's last pretty long just as long as there isn't any detonation the pistons can't take much (ringlands). I've had my car running for a long time running 9lbs before untuned at 12:7 for like 5 months making a crappy 185hp, Tuned it for like 20min on the dyno and got 256hp, then I went like two weeks ago and we took our time and got 280hp.

There was a guy with a sr20det much nicer setup but with a stock turbo boosting 14lbs and he was getting around 245-256 hp. He ran home and put on a fpr.. I don't know why lol and he made his car run crappier. If he had a larger turbo running 14lbs he would make much better power, a 60-1 will spool pretty good on a 2.0 or a 2.4..... Even on a 1.8 honda motor. I dunno I have worked on and driven a lot of different setups and im suprised at how some of these smaller motors spool these bigger turbo's.



I guess it really depends on how much hp you want to make you can only go so far with a small turbo until it becomes a hot air pump causing detonation.
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If its a t3/60-1, that would make sense. If not, it will be laggy. 60-1 is a big turbo. What turbo are you running?

Devil Man said:
mmm now if this was the case then, would you run lower boost to get the same hp at the end?
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If I'm understanding your question correctly, yes. At 14psi on my stock t25, JWT cams, ect ect I made something like 256 peak whp. With a GT3071r I made 350. Same boost, same everything except a greddy intake manifold and supporting mods for the bigger turbo.
 
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