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calipers function as they should, the ebrake mechanism can be turned by hand (right up until it starts engaging) and is buttery smooth. cables are slack at rest and dont interact with the ebrake mechanism at all unless the ebrake is engaged. hard lines all look physically sound and rust...

front cable was replaced NEW 4-6 months ago along with some used rear cables, all slide fine in theyre housing, no binding, and theres about 1.5" of play in the handle before it does anything. im 99.999999999% sure its unrelated to the ebrake but im gonna remove the cables from the calipers and...

the passenger rear caliper failed completely and the driver was sticking, so i rebuilt the whole rear brakes last weekend, new parts include, *Rebuilt Calipers *New Caliper Brackets *New Pads *New Rotors *New Soft Lines *New Master Cylinder about 4-6 months ago the front was also...

remove the doorpanel and throw direct current to the motor, see what happens

its hard to tell from the pic but it doesnt seem like your at tdc of cylinder one on the COMPRESSION STROKE where both valves are closed. again im judging by the pic and it looks like your exhaust cam is pointing down and your intake is pointing up. both lobes should point out. i think your...

vacuum leak somewhere guaranteed. u need to drop the manifold and remove the secondary butterflies and get rid of all the uneeded vacuum lines. u should only need three, iacv, brake booster and fpr

the motor needs to be at operating temp when you do a compression test or your going to get inconclusive results. also make sure you pull the fuel pump fuse and when your cranking, the throttle needs to be held at WOT.

i had more or less the same issue and still cant run the car unless i run an auto ecu but anyways, you need to get a reading on the fuel pressure, pump could be bad, fpr could be bad and so on, i would start by swapping the fuel filter, swap the fuel lines front and back, while the soft lines...

havent checked with noid lights yet, spark plugs are all black all cyl running rich just finished painfully swapping the pcv valve and all its hoses, motor still runs like shit super rich misfiring and all that good shit, but code 33 went away and was replaced with code 12 which is the maf...

o2 is brand new and has continuity all the way to the ecu plug under remedies for code 33 it lists: sensor/harness> tests out fine intake air leaks> reading 20in of vacuum fuel pressure> got 40psi varies with vacuum injectors> have been swapped 2 times, theres no way 12 injectors in a row...

Maybe a video will help View My Video its running as rich as can be, blowing black smoke and breaking up as can be heard in the video swapped the iacv last weekend with no luck, tried a different maf off a running car no luck, swapped the whole rail with a spare i had same shit, still throwing...

ecu throws code 33, the car starts up right away, but wont respond to throttle input, the rpm's go down then kinda go back up when given input, it also wont idle under 1k and if it does it stumbles and dies, the a/c-auxillry fan turns on for no reason whether the car has reached operating temp...

cum in pants goodness right here http://www.canibeat.com/2012/10/wallpaper-wednesday-noel-barnums-2013-scion-frs/

MAF reads perfect per the FSM's specifications Also checked dizzy, all 4 injectors click in firing order and it fluctuates from 0v to 5v like the FSM says its supposed to, still stuck as fuck as to what the issue could be

car stumbles, misfires, doesnt respond to throttle until a couple seconds after the throttle has been let go, and over all isnt very driveable ecu throws code 33 (o2 sensor) sensor is new, replaced it thursday under warranty fuel pump is new injectors have been swapped a million times...

thanks for all the responses guys much appreciated temp guage works 100%, oil is clean and so is the water in the radiator, there is no pulsing in the cooling system, but i still cant rule out BHG or not. i ran the car last night and felt the hoses, and the upper was hot as shit and lower...

KA24DE the only one i removed is the little 1/4" loop that heats the throttle body, that was at least 6months ago when i put the motor in, the thermostat bypass loop is there as it should be

Redid my coolant system cause my radiator was leaking causing me to overheat, and now after overhauling the system im still overheating, i got a new thermostat, radiator cap, new water pump, new aluminum radiator, electric fans, new heater hoses and im sure im forgetting something, system holds...

i tracked down the guy that did the swap and it takes the oem gs300 line, actually swapped it out yesterday, what a pain in the fucking ass, hands are cut to shit :( stupid tight ass lexus engine bays

got a 94 gs300 swapped over to a jdm 2jzgte from a 94 tt supra, the high pressure p/s line went bad and needs to be replaced, what car do i order it off that will fit? i cant find the person that did the swap :( any help will be much appreciated