SR20DET Questions?!

BiG MiKE

BiG MiKE

Driver
1. Heat rating recommended for spark plugs?
2. Damage that could be done by using a "higher" or "lower" heat rating?
3. Anyone using NGK Plat. Iridium plugs on their SR w/ 11 heat rating? How are they workin?
4. A good place to get good tuning for a Semi decent price with someone that really really knows what they are doing and specializes in Nissans.

Thanks in advance
 
For every 75-100hp you should run a heat range colder then factory spec. I would run one range colder if you were turning up the boost on a stock turbo sr. If you start to make more power and you do not change your heat range the spark plug will not be able to dissapate the heat from the increased power; it will create a hot spot for detonation. Colder spark plugs have a larger ceramic therefor are able to keep with in proper operating temprature and not over heat.

For more spark plug information visit. www.ngk.com/faqmain.asp

For tuning localy you can check drag international and i think back yard productions dose tuning also. any experianced tuner should be able to take your setup and tune it well.
 
I prefer the iridiums over the platinums, partly cause its a stronger metal and u can gap them.

The platinum plugs give slightly stronger spark, but with stock coilpacks the difference in power is probably negligable.

What ignition system do u have on the sr(stock)?
How much power/boost are u running. What gap are u gonna put on the plugs?
If its only slightly modified(intake/exhaust), stock boost id stay stock plugs. If u have alittle boost up, then go with one heat range colde. You may just have to buy a set give a try and look. If its not good then buy another set with different heat, and try again.

If the plugs are too cold, besides loosing power, they will get carboned up faster. If they are too much on the hot side, the tip could come off and punch a hole through ur piston (Worse case senarior).

All of this is my opinion. take it however u like.
 
NGK's heat rating for one step colder is 7. OEM = 6.

Copper and SR's don't mix. You will go through plugs almost bi-weekly. I have no idea why, but I can tell you that I went through 3 sets in a very short while before I went back to iridium. Also, on most SR related forums people running coppers have break up issues.
 
BiG MiKE said:
4. A good place to get good tuning for a Semi decent price with someone that really really knows what they are doing and specializes in Nissans.
Click to expand...

SrSteve said:
Titan motorsports...
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He said cheap and knowledgable in Nissans. Nothing against Titan but if you can get them to tune they are proficient in yota's mainly.

If you want the best tunner he is located in the Tampa vicinity. His name is scott (can't remeber his last name) and he is one of the leading SR tuners in the nation. He works with haltech, microtech and rom. I have his number but I am not going to post it. If you wish to call him PM me and I will give it to only you. A lot of the FD 240's with SR's run his chip and he comes highly recommended by multiple shops that I work with. You will not be dissappointed.

Onto plugs. I have found that the best plugs to run are the cheapy ones. The amount of limiter bounce that we do sliding will fry a plug with a quickness and in the long run using a harder plug (i.e. irridium or platinum) can cause more engine damage due to a faulty plug still semi-functioning. I would recommend using the cheapy NGKR's because you can replace them easily vice spending 40-50 bucks using 5887's or 5888's and when they go, you will know.


-Josh
 
Im looking for a tuner in the south florida area... But i maybe in tampa in the upcoming weeks so if u could pm me the number.... Thanx for all the advice everyone
 
Josh said:
He said cheap and knowledgable in Nissans. Nothing against Titan but if you can get them to tune they are proficient in yota's mainly.

If you want the best tunner he is located in the Tampa vicinity. His name is scott (can't remeber his last name) and he is one of the leading SR tuners in the nation. He works with haltech, microtech and rom. I have his number but I am not going to post it. If you wish to call him PM me and I will give it to only you. A lot of the FD 240's with SR's run his chip and he comes highly recommended by multiple shops that I work with. You will not be dissappointed.
Click to expand...

You're talking about Enthalpy...his name's no secret. http://www.rs-enthalpy.com/ He has a new job now but still reflashes stock ecus. I'm sure with enough money though one could manage a private tuning session.

BiG MiKE said:
Im looking for a tuner in the south florida area... But i maybe in tampa in the upcoming weeks so if u could pm me the number.... Thanx for all the advice everyone
Click to expand...

What ecu do you have?
 
Copper and SR's don't mix. You will go through plugs almost bi-weekly. I have no idea why, but I can tell you that I went through 3 sets in a very short while before I went back to iridium. Also, on most SR related forums people running coppers have break up issues.
Click to expand...

I've used copper plugs in my sr for over 3 years and have never had any problems like that. I run 7's and change them once every 3 months or so or after an event, etc. I have no "break up issues" and i'm running over 320whp. I say thumbs up for the coppers :D
 
dori dori said:
NGK's heat rating for one step colder is 7. OEM = 6.

Copper and SR's don't mix. You will go through plugs almost bi-weekly. I have no idea why, but I can tell you that I went through 3 sets in a very short while before I went back to iridium. Also, on most SR related forums people running coppers have break up issues.
Click to expand...

Odd to say the least.

i run 2 steps colder in the ka. KA24DE NGK factory heat range is 5, 7 is two steps colder.
 
kleen555 said:
I've used copper plugs in my sr for over 3 years and have never had any problems like that. I run 7's and change them once every 3 months or so or after an event, etc. I have no "break up issues" and i'm running over 320whp. I say thumbs up for the coppers :D
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Well it does seem like a hit or miss thing. There are few guys that swear by them. My car broke up like crazy at anything over 11psi and 6k and I know I'm not the only one.

240SicknessX said:
Odd to say the least.
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Maybe not. Stock SR tunes tend to run lean under boost and copper plugs don't like to spark under lean (or rich) conditions. That would explain why people with tunes run coppers all day without any issues.
 
dori dori said:
Maybe not. Stock SR tunes tend to run lean under boost and copper plugs don't like to spark under lean (or rich) conditions. That would explain why people with tunes run coppers all day without any issues.
Click to expand...

It is said that reliable forced induction air fuel ratios (WOT) using 93 octane are 11:1 AFR roughly for piston engines.

Are there any naturally asperated applications that will not run properly at all while using copper plugs?

To the best of my knowledge I dont know of any specific naturally asperated application that will break up in the rpm range if they were to use copper spark plugs compared to other alternatives (iridium).

Im trying to gather some information to support my question about why a copper plug would not like to spark under excessivly rich or excessivly lean instances. Or maybe its the type of signal or the signal type that is different inbetween the ka and sr coils? While I was doing some preliminary tuning of my car when I first installed the turbo a year ago in some parts of the rpm range it would dip below 9.7:1 afr (unreadable by wbo2) but the cylinders wouldnt be too wet to prevent the ignition signal to spark on the plug.

typed by 240SicknessX
 
dan said:
It is said that reliable forced induction air fuel ratios (WOT) using 93 octane are 11:1 AFR roughly for piston engines.

Are there any naturally asperated applications that will not run properly at all while using copper plugs?

To the best of my knowledge I dont know of any specific naturally asperated application that will break up in the rpm range if they were to use copper spark plugs compared to other alternatives (iridium).

Im trying to gather some information to support my question about why a copper plug would not like to spark under excessivly rich or excessivly lean instances. Or maybe its the type of signal or the signal type that is different inbetween the ka and sr coils? While I was doing some preliminary tuning of my car when I first installed the turbo a year ago in some parts of the rpm range it would dip below 9.7:1 afr (unreadable by wbo2) but the cylinders wouldnt be too wet to prevent the ignition signal to spark on the plug.

typed by 240SicknessX
Click to expand...

When I say 11:1 afr, i ment in the 11's in genral not 11.0 flat.
 
dan said:
It is said that reliable forced induction air fuel ratios (WOT) using 93 octane are 11:1 AFR roughly for piston engines.

Are there any naturally asperated applications that will not run properly at all while using copper plugs?

To the best of my knowledge I dont know of any specific naturally asperated application that will break up in the rpm range if they were to use copper spark plugs compared to other alternatives (iridium).

Im trying to gather some information to support my question about why a copper plug would not like to spark under excessivly rich or excessivly lean instances. Or maybe its the type of signal or the signal type that is different inbetween the ka and sr coils? While I was doing some preliminary tuning of my car when I first installed the turbo a year ago in some parts of the rpm range it would dip below 9.7:1 afr (unreadable by wbo2) but the cylinders wouldnt be too wet to prevent the ignition signal to spark on the plug.

typed by 240SicknessX
Click to expand...

hahaha LMAO i was about to say that is NOT DAN!!!!!!
 
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