s13 relay that gives power to starter location?

V

Vr6wantsr20det

Driver
I have some half-assed together FSM's that i can't find the info or location. I am looking for the relay that gives the power to the Starter. My car will not start when Warmed-up/HOT. It starts just fine everytime when the car is cold or sitting for a few hours. I had the starter rebuilt so it's not the starter/solenoid. There is 12V to the power supply so it's not that. I'm thinking the relay/module that gives the signal or power to the starter when heating up is failing. Would like to replace it just to rule it out. If anyone knows where it's located i can pull it out and get it replaced.

[edit]- Car is a 92 s13 with s13 sr20det blacktop

thanks,
Robert :bigthumbu
 
After the car warms up and wont start, check for power at the ignition wire while someone is trying to crank it.(see below for reference) If it is getting power, then the relay is ok, if not, replace the relay. I cant find a diagram on the relay location, but it should be in the main fuse panel under the hood. Hope this helps!

img00011largeon1.jpg
 
the starter relay should be in you passenger side fender or next to your battery its blue
 
SAS said:
the starter relay should be in you passenger side fender or next to your battery its blue
Click to expand...

Isn't that The Clutch interlock switch relay, is that considered the same thing? (if i remember it looks to be 2-relays side-by side with 2 plugs going to it).

Now i know the Large power wire from the battery is getting 12V (even when it doesn't want to start). Do you know how many volts the ignition wire should be putting out? Is it also 12v?

thanks,
Robert
 
I was told by at least 5 different people that its the blue relay. And these people have owned way more 240s then me. Im betting your probelm is the starter soleniod not a relay
 
anybody in here got any idea on how much amperage the starter signal will draw?....
 
SAS said:
I was told by at least 5 different people that its the blue relay. And these people have owned way more 240s then me. Im betting your probelm is the starter soleniod not a relay
Click to expand...


I thought the same thing, which is why i first bought an ISIS sr20det starter replacement which didn't fix the problem, then i had the OEM Sr20det starter rebuilt and got it back on monday, didn't fix it either. So i'm at a loss. whenever the car is warmed-up/hot the start doesn't crank etc. i will try to check the signal wire to see what it's getting there when it's cold (when it will start) and also when it's HOT (won't start).
 
dose the solind click when it dont start if it dose its not the relay its the starter
ps try to hit the starter when trying to start
 
KeysSr said:
dose the solind click when it dont start if it dose its not the relay its the starter
ps try to hit the starter when trying to start
Click to expand...

It doesn't click like when your battery is almost dead and it doesn't have enough juice to kick over, it doesn't click, but my brother said he can feel the solenoid wanting to work. The starter was just freshly rebuilt and installed on monday. We've tried the hitting with a hammer and that doesn't do it. What We did find yesterday is there is a ground that goes from the battery tray to a bolt on the intake manifold. It seems when it doesn't want to start, there is resistance through the ground (shouldn't be any). So i'm going to replace that to rule it out as well. the battery is re-located to the trunk and grounded in the trunk with the power wire running all the way through to the engine bay. I may swing by the u-pull-it and just try replacing the Blue relay in the engine bay as well to rule it out.

The car will start fine, first try and strong when it's cool. Hope to figure this out as there are other small things i need to get to, but this is a major reliability issue. :rolleyes:
 
SAS said:
you should def have the ground connected
Click to expand...

by connected, it is welded/fixed to the battery tray, and screwed underneath a bolt on the intake manifold, but i am going to scrap that, and get a fresh wire/end pieces to mount it elsewhere. just replace it all together and test again to see if we still get resistance through it when the car won't start/warm.

thanks for all the suggestions.
 
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