rotary

B

BigBadAlex

spectator/media/drifter
Driver
alright quick question i hear all this about rotary being unreliable and that they blow alot if i were to change my seals when i bought then engine would this be a solution how can i fix this issuE?
 
Apex seals hate heat and especially detonation. Keep your rotary from overheating and detonating and it will last a good amount of time boosted. If we're talking N/A - they can last a very long time.
 
alexanderig said:
and after a while ?
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get rid of it for anther piston motor before it blows......


part of the reason they are so unreliable is becuase they are such high maintenance.
 
people dont give rotarys as much credit as they deserve, the reason they never last long is because people beat the shit out of an rx7 with a stock cooling setup which is idiotic, one bad overheat and you're done.

after i rebuild my engine i got 3mm hd reinforced apex seals, and with my koyo raditor pettit intake and smic my water temps never go about 180 which is amazing for a rotary.

and most of you who know me, see how i drive my car, after a whole day at countyline my water temps are still around 180, fans barely come on and they come on around 185F.

i love the engine, and i think they're amazing for the power they put down for their displacement.

but the car does love to be babied, and if you buy a rotary with over 50k miles chances are its been beaten to hell and you mind as well rebuild it.

although it seems like i beat the piss out of my engine i really take care of it, i dont want it to blow, but whenever it does go i'm going ls1
 
lesson number 1. when getting a rx7 don't listen to every person you talk to, because most of the things they will say came from someone else who thought they " knew" about the motor. if you want your motor to last check yyour oil once a week and up grade the cooling system. 1 is the radiator , get a good one. 2 get another stock fc oil cooler so you have 2 of them. most people just get a new rad and call it a day, which is fine for the water temps. using two oil coolers will help prevent warping and cracking of the apex seals. as long as you check your oil reg your motor should last a while. my first motor lasted 124k.
 
i have a rotary, and to be honest, the only problem i had with the motor was a bad water pump. on the other hand, i have had to replace basically my whole drive train from the trans back, my trans was damaged when my drive shaft broke, and im converting everything to Tii parts. i beat the shit out of it almost every time i drive it, rotarys love to be driven hard. i work a tire kingdom so i can lift the car and get free oil :) i am able to treat it better than i treat my girlfriend... who left me lol.

non turbo rotary engines can last up to 150k if you maintain them properly and drive them with a pleasant foot but it doesnt mean you cant beat on it every once in a while.

turbo motors dont last as long because they work harder and they are constantly beat on. i have heard turbo motors lasting 100k even up to 125k before needing a rebuild. however when you upgrade the turbo, you must be able to upgrade everything else especially the cooling and fuel system. rotarys hate to be overheated and lean fuel mixtures which arecommon causes of blown seals... (any upgrade you do to add power such as a bigger turbo can also deduct from engine life)
i am talking about 2nd gen rx7 the 3rd gen definitely needs more attention...

www.Rx7club.com is a great source to learn about the rx7 for all 3 generations.
www.fc3spro.com is a site for 2nd gen turbo rx7. it is a great source for information.

please, just like any forum, search before you ask, and look at the archives...
 
also go on pettitracing.com and buy protek-r its lubricant for the fuel and apex seals its badass, i buy a box of 20 for 36$ and it'll last a few months gotta love it. i put 4 oz in everytime i put fuel in my car
 
Amazing motor! /thread

Maintenance is key! Run 2 Stroke when you fill gas. Keep the engine cool, radiator, fans and good intercooler. Keep your oil full, they DO burn oil. It is part of the process on the engine, the have OIL INJECTORS! DO NOT RUN SYNTHETIC! It doesn't burn well. Just make sure you change your oil regularly. On the question of seals. There is no way to Forge them. They Do break when hot or detonation. Tune properly and you will be safe.
 
A rotary motor is like a women. You don't treat her right and she won't perform for you. As long as u keep track of fluids, coolant leaks, and good oiling, you should be fine. Don't just turn the boost up a little bit so u can win a race or the motor will blow. Treat it as any car should be treated and it'll be fine.
 
what am i curiuos about is do these rx's have like a oil can that you fill up? like a motor cycle thats a basically how these things are they are dry sumped motors arent they?
 
Junglist Muzik said:
A rotary motor is like a women. You don't treat her right and she won't perform for you. As long as u keep track of fluids, coolant leaks, and good oiling, you should be fine. Don't just turn the boost up a little bit so u can win a race or the motor will blow. Treat it as any car should be treated and it'll be fine.
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I KNOW HOW TO CHECK A WOMANS FLUIDS & I AM FIMILIAR WITH GOOD OILING :naughty: BUT HOW DO YOU CHECK A WOMANS COOLANT ? :confused:
 
nfs_emo_fag said:
my first motor lasted 124k.
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and it was still chugging despite the hell you put it thru.

if you get a rotary, you have to become a rotar-head. otherwise you will end up hating it simply b/c you dont know enough about it. although you will blame it on the triangles, and not your lack of knowledge.

:)

o, i wouldnt bother with the seals unless it has super high miles or you thought it was losing compression...but like Noah said, Dont listen to me, b/c im just guesing. :laugh:

o and if your making any amount of power(or even if your not, really), dont let it get low on gas. > 1/4 tank is usually wise.

Devil Man said:
what am i curiuos about is do these rx's have like a oil can that you fill up? like a motor cycle thats a basically how these things are they are dry sumped motors arent they?
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they arent dry sump. oil pan/pump/squirters, same shit, different toilet.

here you go:
http://www.rotaryengineillustrated.com/how-a-rotary-engine-works/lubrication-oil-system.html
 
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