rb26 keeps running hot!

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Drifter_85

Member
ok i finally got my car on the road but she like to start running hot. so today i decided to check the thermostat out and flush the system. i pulled the water neck off and I had no thermostat in. I flushed out the engine and rad until no more orange rust water came out. Let her idle in the drive way for 10 mins revving it every little while and the needle never budged. Took her on the road and she started to climb to the H. Wtf. Seems like the water pump is working but fins might be worn. Guess I should replace it before I do the head gasket. anyone have any other ideas? i going to get the nismo water pump but i have to save up a little before i can order it. bills are due right now.

---------- Post added at 04:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:26 PM ----------

and yes i bleed the car. i jacked it up as high as i could and took the bleeder screw out and i shoot out water.
 
I'm having the same problem but with a 25 . Changed the water pump thermostat was bad so I took it off new fluid bleed it and everything . Changed fans too Next step is radiator then HG for last :/
 
ya im saving hg for last too. i do have a stock on that came with my rebuild kit but i might upgrade it if i really have to do the hg.

---------- Post added at 05:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:07 PM ----------

i was planning on getting water wetter but didnt want to put it in if its getting hot this fast. i think there is another problem
 
Do you have an aftermarket water temp gauge or are you going off of stock gauge?
 
I had the same problem in my 25. changed the thermo and its good now. you should stick with oem water pump for rb's i dont know where I have heard that the nismo water pump for rb's are shit..could be wrong tho
 
Few things about rb cooling i've read...

1. Stick to oem nissan thermostats (some off brands do not operate properly)
2. If you're running pusher fans make sure the blade direction is correct. Some people forget to flip the blades if you change the polarity to make pullers pushers.
3. Get an aftermarket water temp gauge. The stock gauge on the cluster isn't very accurate.
4. Run a waterwetter/distilled mixture for coolant.
5. Swirl pot/breather tank. This helps constantly bleed the cooling system and forces air out.

The waterwetter/distilled water and Swirlpot both have been awesome and my rb hardly ever goes above 180. Mine usually stays right around 175ish with a bumper and hood on. Hope this helps any rb people.
 
Kensi said:
I had the same problem in my 25. changed the thermo and its good now. you should stick with oem water pump for rb's i dont know where I have heard that the nismo water pump for rb's are shit..could be wrong tho
Click to expand...

all ive heard about this is that the n1 can push much water to fast and can make your car over heat
 
username said:
Few things about rb cooling i've read...

1. Stick to oem nissan thermostats (some off brands do not operate properly)
2. If you're running pusher fans make sure the blade direction is correct. Some people forget to flip the blades if you change the polarity to make pullers pushers.
3. Get an aftermarket water temp gauge. The stock gauge on the cluster isn't very accurate.
4. Run a waterwetter/distilled mixture for coolant.
5. Swirl pot/breather tank. This helps constantly bleed the cooling system and forces air out.

The waterwetter/distilled water and Swirlpot both have been awesome and my rb hardly ever goes above 180. Mine usually stays right around 175ish with a bumper and hood on. Hope this helps any rb people.
Click to expand...

1.as of right now no thermo so thats out.
2.im sure fan is pushing right way.
3.this is a good idea but i dont want to fill my car with gauges but i can get one just for tuning purposes.
4. i would like to do this but dont want to spend money on them if i will have to drain the car again because problem is still there. how much is wetter?
5. never even seen a swirl pot. nor know how to hook one up

Good info tho thanks
 
no thermo isnt always going to run the coolest. It helps regulate the water temp as well.
Dont want to fill your car with gagues? hrmmm water temp gauge to make sure im reading the right temps or sketchy dash cluster? take your pick. Also did you even change out the cluster temp sensor on the motor out to match the model cluster you have? That will make it read different as well.
As for not wanting to buying waterwetter. Im trying to help give you options to fix your issue but if you're not willing to take the advice to help narrow down the issue then why ask? Sorry not trying to come off as a dick, just trying to give helpful advise.


Here's a pic of my swirl pot(passenger side). The lines get hooked up to the lower radiator hose, radiator cap, and if you're running the oem intake then the other line would go to the stock bleeder port.

photo.jpg
 
no i do appreciate the advice, i think u miss understood what i ment. i will buy water wetter but i done want to use that to try to keep the temp down. I feel it should stay normal and then i will add the wetter to help keep cool. you know what i mean. i think of water wetter as being an aid, not a fixer.. i know people with rb swaps not running water wetter and not having a promblem.. Thanks for all your advice. im gonna look up the swirl pot now
 
Well this is florida and its starting to get into summer temps. If you search a little on nicoclub in the rb section everyone there swears by waterwetter and does wonders for temps.
 
Check for water circulation, should be easyvsince u running no stat...

Then get back to thread wit info...
 
i know it works.. im not doughting it at all and i will be running it! but i have this problem at night also. i am running a 50/50 mix also. is that what you guys use.
also using distilled water is to keep impurities out right? running non distilled right now wont hurt the temp
 
PB&J said:
Check for water circulation, should be easyvsince u running no stat...

Then get back to thread wit info...
Click to expand...

yes there is circulation. when i was flushing the car i took off the rad hoses and put my water hose in the upper hose waited for water to start coming out and then turned on the car and it started pushing water back out so i switched the hose to the lower neck

i kept it running till water was coming out clear then took out bleeder screw and let that run till it cam out clear also. then stuck hone in upper rad port and fluched that till water was clear

---------- Post added at 06:07 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:01 PM ----------

and someone said something about switching the temp senser? do i use one off the ka engine? is it the same thread? if yes, does anyone have one?
 
You use the one that matches your chassis. Ex. 93 s13 get one for a 93 s13. And yes it threads in. It's the single wire sensor
 
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